beauty industry. How do we buy cosmetics? A revolution in the beauty industry

The release of medical cosmetics is gaining momentum. A special segment of the market - medical cosmetics for sensitive skin, which is in increasing demand among consumers of beauty salons. Sensitive skin treatments are becoming increasingly popular and are ready to catch up with the range of services associated with anti-age programs.

There will be fewer brands. So say marketers who monitor the development of the market for cosmetic products in the world. Many companies are reducing the number of brands by grouping large groups of products under one name. This process is also activated due to the ongoing mergers and acquisitions of companies that have traditionally supplied products to the beauty industry market.

Anti-age programs for men are becoming increasingly popular. Manufacturers of cosmetic products pay special attention to skin care products for men over 35 years old. Products are designed specifically for men, taking into account the characteristics of their skin, bad habits, hormonal status. It is also noted that anti-age programs are rapidly “getting younger”, many procedures are designed for 23-25 ​​year old clients of beauty industry enterprises and are designed to prevent aging. At the same time, physiologists in many countries oppose the desire to talk about old age as a “curable disease”, believing that a person should come to the end of life without artificially instilled complexes about not meeting the standard of eternal youth.

Natural cosmetics - a brand of the second decade of the 21st century. More and more manufacturing companies are offering products that are claimed to be natural. Beauty salons and cosmetology clinics are picking up the baton. There is a growing number of salons that adhere to the slogan "naturalness" in the interior, colors of uniforms, menus of phyto-bars, as well as in the name of procedures. A favorable response from the clients of the salon is caused by any actions related to security environment- from the use of products that are not tested on animals, to the use of consumables that are disposed of without harming the environment.

Philosophy and practice of the spa actively penetrate into the beauty direction. More and more services traditionally associated with beauty are acquiring the prefix spa. At the same time, approaches to the new look of procedures differ. On the one hand, filling the usual beauty procedures is due to "water options", on the other hand, due to relaxing techniques. Both are of great interest to customers.

Comprehensive cosmetology programs - that's the requirement of the day! More and more beauty industry enterprises offer clients not a single service, but a set of procedures connected by the logic of solving an aesthetic problem. It is characteristic that such a complex includes both hardware and manual techniques. A comprehensive cosmetology program helps not only to effectively correct the appearance, but also to demonstrate to the client all the possibilities of the salon, thereby increasing his loyalty.

Beauty salons and cosmetology clinics strengthen diagnostic capabilities. In the coming years, most likely, the conditions for most services in the cosmetology and hairdressing market will include diagnosing a problem using high-tech equipment. The ability to more professionally define the aesthetic problem of the client makes the service more targeted. Salons that have implemented diagnostic services will have a competitive advantage, as they will be able to more effectively motivate consumers.

Techno style in the design of beauty salons is becoming a leader among other design solutions. Experts attribute this both to the saturation of the classrooms with the latest equipment, and to the client's desire to keep up with the times, consuming only those services in which modern scientific ideas are invested.

Hair and scalp treatments are gradually gaining popularity and advances to the base place among the services of hairdressing and beauty salons. The fight against dandruff has ceased to be the responsibility of only shampoos. Hairdressing salons in Europe are actively introducing mesotherapy, physiotherapy techniques and the achievements of endocrinology into their practice.

The struggle between surgical and non-surgical methods of body shaping continues, more and more new devices are entering the market, allowing to solve problems with more gentle methods. Further intrigue will develop between invasive (mesotherapeutic) and non-invasive techniques (ultrasound, radio wave, etc.). In this regard, intensive development of devices for non-invasive mesotherapeutic effects on the body is expected.

In the cosmetology arsenal there are drugs that are used peros. They are made in liquid form and "prescribed" to the client to achieve a cosmetic effect. Among these drugs are placental, vitamin-containing and many others. The trend in the development of cosmetic procedures in the countries of the Asia-Pacific region includes not only hardware and manual effects, but also the ingestion of cosmetic drugs.

The struggle between manufacturers of solariums and firms that produce tanning cosmetics- not news. Recently, however, consumer interest has been leaning towards cosmetics. In response, solarium users put forward new motivations for clients - prevention of depression caused by lack of sunlight and natural intake of vitamin D. It remains to be noted that these arguments may lead to the fact that the service of solariums will still be considered as medical.

Cosmetological procedures aimed at caring for the body are being introduced and developed at a faster pace. According to surveys conducted in Europe and America, women, if they have a choice, prefer to have a young body rather than a face. At the same time, the beauty of the body implies not so much ideal forms as the freshness and health of the skin. The most popular are anti-aig and detox programs.

Aging with dignity! This is how the aesthetic task for the elderly population of the developed countries of Europe and America is now formulated. Age is no longer a crime. Another thing is that old age should be beautiful and dignified, this is what the main cosmetic forces are now directed to: not to remove the years, but to make the face and body beautiful and healthy. Well-groomed, fresh, visible signs of health are the main beauty criteria for the elderly.

The development of hardware cosmetology completes an extensive stage, during which it was important to promote a new technology or equipment to the market, to stake out a place without losing an inch to competitors. Increasingly, at medical conferences, topics are considered that sound like this: “Complications with physiotherapeutic methods in cosmetology”, “False advertising of the results of hardware procedures”, “Is it possible to talk about a visible result after one procedure?”. Most specialists in the field of cosmetology agree that not a single hardware technique existing on the market can be considered a panacea for all aesthetic problems. Therefore, complex methods are created that use different types of exposure: hardware, injection, manual. This process is becoming more and more popular, but there is a problem that no one yet talks about: how verified are the combined methods, is it necessary to license programs that use different methods, or it is enough that each method is individually approved by the regulatory authorities. The question is not idle - with combined methods, the effect does not work simple addition forces, the results can be unpredictable.

natural hair color. A long-forgotten combination of words... However, we will soon remember about it. Leading hair color manufacturers are launching care products on the market that... color your hair to its natural color! The principle of their action is to restore the natural pigment or its complete imitation. The advantage of new hair dyes is in their gentle chemical composition. The difficulty of promoting the service in the salon is the lack of professionalism among the masters, who will have to retrain in order to understand the new principles of coloring.

Cosmetology services in beauty salons are becoming increasingly time-graded. Express procedures are concentrated on one pole. They are becoming more and more complex in terms of technique, multi-component, give an excellent visible result, but are guaranteed to improve appearance client for no more than a day. At the other extreme, there are long-acting cosmetology programs, these, on the contrary, are designed for a cumulative effect, do not promise instant improvement and are recommended by the course and subsequent supporting procedures. It should be noted that regular visitors to beauty parlors are psychologically ready to consume both services.

Cosmetics manufacturers are working on products that are ready to solve aesthetic problems in conjunction with hardware techniques. These cosmetic products, as the developers assume, will be approved together with the method of hardware exposure and represent a single medical technology in the complex. Some companies producing cosmetic devices for the beauty industry have already announced that in the near future they will bring cosmetic products to the market, the main task of which will be: to enhance the positive effect of intensive / aggressive cosmetic procedures; reduction of adverse reactions of such procedures; protection of the skin from damaging effects ultraviolet rays and the environment in the pre- and post-procedural period.

New discoveries await the beauty industry in the field of cosmetic packaging. The creation of products that contain virtually no preservatives is forcing manufacturers to look for new ways to package and store the product. In addition, there is a search for new ways to combine individual ingredients right before use. So on the market there is a bottle-vacuum mixer for cosmetics, which mixes the ingredients in a vacuum space right before use. It can be assumed that in the near future, not so much the composition of the product will be its competitive advantage, but the ability to preserve all the qualities of the ingredients in full until the moment it is applied to the client's skin.

Product authenticity. Authenticity, full compliance with the declared name, legend, effect - this is what a modern visitor to a beauty salon requires from a cosmetic product, as well as from procedures with its use. This is a sophisticated client who lives by collecting impressions. And the beauty products consumed must fully comply with his ideas about the acquired sensations. He has traveled extensively and already knows the smell of Thai herbs, red vines in the south of France, seaweed from the east of the Atlantic. He knows what coconut milk looks like and has probably already visited an old farm in Italy where herbal extracts are made according to medieval recipes. A modern client recognizes a fake not by a crooked brand of the product, but by the complex of sensations that he perceives from the procedure. And authenticity will soon become the main competitive advantage of beauty salons.

Beauty for the elite. This slogan today means the creation of a service system for certain groups of people who, by the standards of the last century, had to think about survival, and not about appearance. The 21st century is making adjustments, and the world press is increasingly writing about beauty salons for people with disabilities, about how to maintain the attractiveness of those who have been struggling with a serious illness for many years. Beauty is seen as a way to combat depression and an opportunity to save face - both literally and figuratively.

Young hair is a booming trend which has both supporters and opponents. Some experts believe that hair is still "dead" cells, others assure that they should also look young and attractive. Anti-aging hair products protect against the adverse effects of the environment, exposure to UV radiation, chemical reagents. Anti-aging products achieve their goal by tightly wrapping each hair, giving it strength, shine and depth of color. Analyzing the novelties of the hair care products market, we can say that it is precisely these consumer qualities that the leading companies in the hair industry are now paying the most attention to.

American analysts claim that there has been a revolution in the beauty industry, and the new generation buys cosmetics differently than their mothers. Do you agree?
Beth Shapouri, the author of Racked.com, gave an impressive analysis of the beauty market and gave her point of view on how millennials forced the beauty industry to change course. We have translated it, and we propose to reflect whether all these changes concern Russia, or whether they have not reached us yet? And will they ever arrive? In general, how do you buy cosmetics? And, if you have been buying it for more than 10 years, has your approach to beauty shopping changed?

In matters of buying cosmetics, modern youth are suspicious guys. They are tired of exaggerated glossy enthusiasm, they understand that not every opinion can be trusted, and they are skeptical.

The beauty industry does not just listen to them - it adapts to them. In 2015, the beauty industry earned $46.2 billion, $13 billion of which came from cosmetics sales. The largest group of buyers are women from 18 to 34 years old (according to the results of the TABS study). They actively purchase cosmetics (more than 10 items a year) and are not averse to shelling out a decent amount for it: sales in the luxury segment, compared to 2014, increased by 7% (decorative cosmetics - by as much as 13% according to The NDP Group) . Experts believe that Instagram trends are to blame for this: contouring, strobing, baking and color correction make followers line up behind concealers, proofreaders and highlighters. For the same reason, there was a boom in eyebrow shaping products.

From the attitude “I won’t believe until I see and try,” new principles follow - what, where and how to buy. The beauty industry has no choice but to comply. Bottom line: it is the generation of millennials that dictates the current format of beauty shopping.

"Sephorization" of cosmetic stores

Millennials are not just want see the product in action - they consider it compulsory condition before buying. This partly explains the decline in online cosmetics sales (according to TABS) and the parallel rise of beauty box sampling services like Birchbox. The same reason for the success of stores like Sephora or Ulta ( Ulta is a network in the USA, similar to Sephora, but more budgetary - ed.): a sea of ​​counters with testers give customers the opportunity to personally verify whether it is worth getting a credit card.

These tester stands help overcome several barriers of consumer distrust at once - and thanks to them in 2014, sales to regular customers at Ulta grew by 41%, and at Sephora - by 32%. Another plus: shoppers spend more time in these stores.

The message is clear: consumers want to try before they buy. And retailers are listening to this - today, almost everywhere, cosmetics are displayed on stands with testers, and not on shelves behind the back of the seller. The NDP Group's beauty analyst Karen Grant calls this phenomenon "sephorization." Another call that the industry is listening to: Nordstrom department store launched a "concierge service" - makeup lessons and selection of care with the possibility of receiving free, and Target ( network of cheap hypermarkets - approx. ed.) offers monthly themed beauty boxes.

Sephora has gone one step further and last year opened a TIP concept store in San Francisco - Teach, Ispire, Play ( "Educate, inspire, play" - approx. ed.): an educational center with iPads stuffed with educational information and consultants ready to give a make-up lesson and pick up care. The company has hinted that it plans to expand this principle to other stores in the chain in the future.

One of the side effects of youth buying power is a decline in anti-aging sales: anything that takes time to see results is a loser. The statistics are as follows: Perfumes are outselling skin care products, and the focus in the skin care industry has shifted to masks (sales have doubled in the past two years, partly thanks to a trend) and instant concealers.

Variety and scatter

Despite the general skeptical anti-globalization sentiment, buyers still choose big brands. TABS analytics showed that the main players in the American decorative cosmetics market are L'Oréal Paris, Maybelline, CoverGirl, Revlon, Estée Lauder and Clinique. And still strong positions are occupied by individual famous brands like MAC and Urban Decay.

But the belief that one must remain faithful to one brand is no longer a dogma. Children of the 2000s vote for the opportunity to choose the best from everyone. “It's like ordering an à la carte lunch instead of a complex business lunch,” says Grant. “No one can force their playlist on anyone these days.”

This means that specialty, niche and indie brands have a good chance of success. According to the NPD report, Anastasia Beverly Hills, IT Cosmetics, Too Faced, NARS, Tarte showed significant growth. Whether these little Davids manage to create a serious danger for the giant Goliaths, time will tell. “Big brands will not necessarily lose some buyers due to new players in the market,” said Kurt Jetta, CEO of TABS Analytics. It's very simple: lately we have been buying more, in principle, in all sectors and segments, both from newcomers and from the pillars of the industry.

Significantly increased interest in natural cosmetics. According to a Nielsen study, for 53% of buyers it is important that the ingredients are "all natural": in 4 years, the organic sector has shown a 24% increase, and distrust of "chemicals" is increasing.

Another factor is ethnic: this niche is filled by brands such as black Up cosmetics (cosmetics, the colors of which are specially designed for dark skin) or Miss Jessie's (curly and curly hair products). Experts believe that in the near future, every brand, in order to be considered "mainstream", will have to offer products for all types of hair and skin tones. One of the giants is already in the game: L'Oréal recently opened a "multicultural" division.

Buyers today have a pretty clear idea of ​​how much – and for what medium – they are willing to pay. “There can be quite a decent spread between prices. The same girl sometimes buys something quite cheap (but still expects quality), and in another case she “spoils herself” and spends 30-40 dollars or more, ”says Jetta. Consumers have a fairly coherent picture of "budget" and "luxury." This plays into the hands of stores like Ulta, where cheap, mid-budget, and prestige brands sit side by side. “If any of the big budget players like Walgreen’s drug store or Target hypermarkets can create a partnership with big brands like Chanel or Lancome, it will be a real coup.”

The fate of the sales assistant

In the Red Book of the beauty industry (except for the counters where nothing can be tasted), another endangered species has appeared: the classic sales assistant. The modern buyer finds out all the necessary information before he crosses the threshold of the store.

Yes, we still want to touch and try the product in the store to make sure we choose the right one. But "Most of the shopping is planned," says Grant. Where does the consumer go for information? First of all, the Internet. The first here are beauty blogs and YouTube (social networks - Facebook, Pinterest, Instagram - after them). But the "gold standard" remains the recommendation of friends. The lion's share of buyers admitted that they trust the opinion of a familiar person most of all. It is this factor that works stronger than all the others - and second only to the price factor - it is still in the first place; see this report).

Moreover, modern buyers do not trust the advice of an interested person (consultant) so much that even if they did not have time to find out the necessary information and read reviews in advance, they will not contact the seller. A recent survey showed that 58% would rather take out their phone and try to check reviews on the right product on the spot than ask for the help of a consultant.

This independent search helps the buyer to match the manufacturer's promises with reality - and means that there is no longer a place for the sales assistant in this process. Once the consultant was the keeper of the keys to the gates to the realm of beauty and a leading figure in the buying process. Now this is a worker on the hook, to whom they turn only if it is absolutely impossible to do without him. Too persistent consultant can even frighten off the buyer. Perhaps this role shift is one of the reasons why CoverGirl, MAC and Honest Beauty tried to take the outreach process into their own hands and created mobile applications to convey the necessary information to the buyer without resorting to the help of a consultant.

The clarity of wording in product names and brand promises has become extremely important - a person now wants to know exactly what he will receive. Nielsen reports that consumers prefer to see simple and clear terms (“retinol” or “collagen” are better than “Hexinol® Technology”), as well as an accurate description of the promised effect, such as how long it will take to see results. For modern consumers, it is important that companies live up to their declared values: in our time, transparency is needed in everything from the supplier of raw materials to production.

What's next?

Based on the present, we can make predictions for the future. There will be an increasing number of offerings that capitalize on the uniqueness of each client, from do-it-yourself palettes to skin and hair care products based on an analysis of the skin and head of a particular person. There will be growing interest in natural products, the rational use of raw materials and the transparency of information about the safety of ingredients.

Sephora and Ulta announce the expansion of their chain of stores, online brands (like Credo and Birchbox) open new points of sale - apparently, purchases will still be made for the most part not on the Internet, but in the physical world, where the buyer has the opportunity to touch, play and find out the information you need before buying.

We hope that the result will be more transparency, more scrutiny of the promised results, and ultimately more effective means. As long as the millennials rule the world, brands will remain on horseback, whose products fulfill the promises of marketers and live up to the reputation built on social networks.

What do you think - when in Russia all sales consultants will be fired, all glossy magazines will be closed, and interest in natural cosmetics will finally wake up, which, according to statistics, is still very small? And will it ever happen?

And in general, can these global trends make brands in general promise us real things, instead of destroying 186% of wrinkles tomorrow morning?

The state of the beauty industry services market

Salon business is a new type of activity that is at the stage of development. That is why there is still practically no literature on this business. Consequently, we took information on the state of salons today from various Internet sites (www.newsalon.ru, www.intercharm.ru, www.girlsclub.ru), which turned out to be a limited number, since information is often duplicated from one site to another .

In order to understand what a beauty salon is, we initially analyzed the meanings of these two words in explanatory dictionaries of the Russian language [Popular Art Encyclopedia 1986, Explanatory Dictionary of the Living Great Russian Language by V. I. Dahl 2004, Great Soviet Encyclopedia 1981, New Dictionary of the Russian Language 2000 , Russian Encyclopedic Dictionary 2006, Brockhaus and Efron Encyclopedic Dictionary 2006, etc.]. The meaning of the word "salon" can be reduced to three meanings: 1) a living room, a reception room, 2) a literary and artistic or political circle of elected persons gathering in a private house, 3) an arts and crafts store. That is, we can say that the salon is, first of all, a beautifully cleaned room where people meet. "Beauty" is defined as something beautiful, perfect. Combining these two concepts, literally a beauty salon can be defined as a place where people meet with beauty.

Based on the analyzed materials from the sites www.newsalon.ru, www.intercharm.net, www.girlsclub.ru, we will give a description of the salons, their condition and types.

Currently, a beauty salon is both a business and a place of rest, and a comprehensive means of caring for the appearance, and health care body.

The structure of the salon business has changed significantly in recent years. Salons are growing in size. There are more and more types of services, including medical ones, that allow not only to tidy up the appearance, but also radically deal with the main problems of clients - skin aging, age-related changes in the figure, hair loss, cellulite, and even fatigue and stress. So, about 5-10 years ago, beauty salons offered mainly hairdressing services, manicures, pedicures and some light manipulations with the face. Today, the market is replete with new offers: all kinds of cosmetic procedures aimed at facial rejuvenation, body shaping.

The growth in the number of beauty salons is facilitated by the fact that it has become indecent in society to appear untidy and unkempt. Up to a quarter of today's salon clients are previously unusual visitors - men puzzled by the fight against hair loss, "beer belly" and chronic fatigue. Young people also reached out to the salons, striving to put in order problematic skin transitional age. Clients have come to realize that home care in terms of efficiency is incomparable with salon procedures, besides, the salon saves time, effort and adds positive emotions from communication.

Beauty salons are not only a beautiful business, but also a fast-growing one. Although, according to the site www.intercharm.net, the Moscow market is developing much faster than the Siberian one (in Novosibirsk, Krasnoyarsk and Omsk, no more than 5-6 salons are opened a year, while in Moscow 2-3 weekly), the Siberian the market has much more prospects, since the competition is much less than in the capital cities. The capital's beauty market, unlike the inactive Siberian one, is in the stage of intensive growth. In addition to the increase in the number of beauty industry establishments, there is another trend - specialization in a priority area: SPA, nail studios, image -, make-up - salons.

In the Siberian market, specialization is a rarity. The main reason is the unformed consumer demand, the lack of a culture of visiting highly specialized establishments. So far, it is still more profitable to provide comprehensive services here.

According to the site www.intercharm.net, the metropolitan market is filled with chains. The largest ones - "Persona", "Mysin Studio", "Aida", "Alexander Todchuk Studio" - include from 5 to 15 salons. Experts believe that in the near future, the network beauty business in Moscow will only progress. The main argument in favor of its development is cost savings due to the fact that the brand is already known and it is possible to duplicate well-established technologies. In Siberia, the salon business does not have a pronounced network orientation. Even if individual salons belong to the same person, they have a different format and style.

Even with such an amorphous state of the market in Siberia, its services are still evolving. In the recent past, consumer hype has been driven by relatively simple procedures: various cosmetic masks, peelings, nail extension. Now there is a shift towards more technological services.

After analyzing the materials of the site www.girlsclub.ru, we can conclude that it is the rejuvenation procedures that are in high demand, since with age the skin condition is valued more and more. Consumers of this service - mostly wealthy women - are willing to pay for procedures that give a long-term effect. At the same time, a culture of preventive cosmetic care has not been formed in Siberia. Siberian women are beginning to pay more and more attention to relaxation procedures. The world of modern business woman This is a world of constant stress. Naturally, SPA treatments come into fashion - effective methods stress relief.

On the site www.newsalon.ru, the owners of Siberian beauty salons state that there is no competition in this market, given its sparseness and low demand. When choosing a salon, most customers focus on proximity. Another important factor is the personality of the master. If the level of his professionalism suits the client, then when the foreman changes jobs, about 20% of the clients will leave with him. When opening a new salon, the master ensures its loading, bringing the accumulated client base. The reputation and brand of the salon are paid attention only in the elite segment: a visit to a prestigious institution once again confirms a high position on the social ladder.

But still there are certain requirements for organizations providing hairdressing services by the Ministry of Economic Development and Trade of the Russian Federation. And in accordance with these requirements, all salons are divided into several types.

Salon

Hairdressing salon

Luxury hairdressing salon

Appearance

Signboard with light design elements

decorative elements

Service Level

Air conditioning in the room

Soft drinks, tea, coffee

Service Organization

Pre-registration for service

Availability of a customer card

The range of services provided

at least 10 types

at least 15 types

at least 25 types

Consulting

Using the latest technology

Qualification

Staff development

at least 1 time in 2 years

at least 1 time per year

at least 1 time per year

Participation in professional competitions, exhibitions

Thus, depending on certain parameters, salons are divided into several types. The more services the salon provides, the higher the qualifications of the employees, as well as the level of service, the higher the category the beauty salon receives, and, accordingly, the higher the prices it charges for services. Moreover, the requirements are imposed both on the appearance of the premises and on the inside. And the level of service is also determined by such parameters as air conditioning, the presence of a client card, drinks. A good beauty salon is not an institution specialized in any direction, but a place where all types of services are correctly combined: image, medical, relaxation services.

If you were lucky enough to be born in the body of a woman, then one way or another you follow the new trends in the beauty industry - even if you yourself do not realize it. Every day, from the pages of gloss, from the accounts of fashionable beauty bloggers, from commercials and posters, from shop windows, dozens of new obscure words fall on women. It's time to despair, but no - our article will help you understand the basic terms of the new trends in the beauty industry and update your beauty catalog to the latest version-2017..

Beauty will save the world: the main terms of the latest beauty catalog

Some women will snort indignantly, saying, why should I understand all this tinsel, if there are consultants in cosmetics stores and beauticians in salons. However, why blush in the store, afraid to admit that you don’t understand the stream of unfamiliar words that the consultant pours in front of you? Why waste time thinking and doubting whether you really need the latest cosmetic procedure offered by the beauty studio administrator, and you don’t even understand its essence and true purpose?

In addition, it is better to go to shops and beauty salons savvy in order to minimize the risk that the staff will impose unnecessary and unnecessary things on you under the guise of fashionable novelties.

Yes, and it’s more pleasant to listen to your favorite bloggers, and to read popular women’s publications if you are in the subject and understand what is at stake.

New terms are emerging in many areas of beauty. But the main "legislators" of the new fashion trends- cosmetology and the art of makeup.

Meet: new concepts in cosmetology:

  1. Neocollagenesis.

An artificial process that stimulates the production of collagen. As we all know, the protein responsible for the firmness and elasticity of the skin (and hence for its youth), our epidermis begins to lose after 30-35 years. One of the methods for stimulating the production of its own fibrillar skin protein is neocollagenesis. This cosmetic procedure for facial skin rejuvenation can be a special injection or hardware lifting.

  1. Rejuvenation.

The cosmetic trend that came to us from the USA can be described as the motto of determined and conscious people: “ The best defense It's prevention." This means that preventing the appearance of wrinkles on the face is easier and more effective than dealing with existing skin creases. Therefore, the complex of procedures is intended for people 20-25-30 years old, who still do not have traces of time on their faces and who want to delay their appearance. The list of such a complex includes many procedures that patients are used to considering as anti-aging - injections of botulinum toxin and fillers, hardware techniques (laser, phototherapy, etc.).

  1. Biostimulation.

Comprehensive rejuvenation of the face and body (perhaps even simultaneous exposure), simultaneous figure correction with rejuvenation. With the help of complex hardware myostimulation, stimulation to the restoration of muscles, skin and subcutaneous fat is achieved. As a result, the skin and oval of the face are tightened, the outlines of the face and silhouette are improved, muscles are toned, and even the weight is slightly reduced.

  1. Eyebrow extension.

What would have seemed wild and strange to us 10 years ago is now in the order of things. Since fashion dictates wide, thick and natural eyebrows, even those women in whom they grow in “threads” or do not grow at all strive for such. For them, American plastic surgeons came up with the idea of ​​using medical equipment for hair transplantation - but on the face.

  1. Microblading.

The newfangled trend can be attributed to eyebrow tattooing, but more modern - such eyebrows on the face look expressive, but much more natural. The essence of the process lies in the name of the technique (from the English language blade - a blade). If during conventional tattooing the paint is injected under the skin using a machine with a needle, then during microblading, the master makes tiny cuts imitating hairs with microscopic blades, filling them with paint.

  1. Biorevolumetry.

Under the complex name, reminiscent of trigonometry lessons from school mathematics, an artistic three-dimensional procedure is hidden. Biorevolumetry carries an integrated approach - moisturizing the skin, smoothing wrinkles, restoring beautiful outlines to the face. Biovolumetric preparations contain a high concentration of hyaluronic acid, which can simultaneously add volume, even out the surface of the skin and fill it with moisture. The introduction of fillers with hyaluronic acid can be applied not only on all parts of the face (forehead, cheeks and cheekbones, chin, lips), but also on the neck, arms, etc.

We hope that with such a dictionary of basic terms of new concepts in cosmetology, it will become easier for women to understand the abundance of procedures offered in salons.

It is better to go to cosmetics stores and beauty salons savvy in order to minimize the risk that the staff will impose unnecessary and unnecessary things on you under the guise of fashionable novelties.

New terms in decorative and care cosmetics

  1. Antisern.

A product for masking dark circles under the eyes, which acts due to the smallest reflective particles that make the traces of lack of sleep invisible to others.

  1. Plumper.

Natural lip augmentation. Due to skin-irritating components in the composition (red pepper, ginger, etc.), this balm makes the lips swell sexually. However, the effect does not last very long, so it is more suitable for a photo shoot or a spectacular selfie.

  1. Mist.

Face spray with vitamins, minerals and hyaluronic acid, which simultaneously relieves irritation, and moisturizes and refreshes the skin.

  1. Tint.

Liquid color pigment, which is used simultaneously for lips and cheeks. The more layers applied - the brighter and richer the color. For example, one layer on the cheeks will create the effect of a translucent blush, and three layers on the lips - a rich crimson (for example) color. The tint is very resistant, but because of this, it emphasizes all the shortcomings - dryness and cracks on the lips.

  1. Patches.

Very easy-to-use masks in the form of impregnated sponges or films. Cooling gel patches around the eyes are also popular.

  1. Serum.

Almost synonymous with serum, but even more active. A concentrate of active substances that either enhances the action of the cream, or acts independently, instantly penetrating deep into the skin and starting the recovery process.

  1. Multimasking.

Application of different masks on different areas of the face. For example, if the skin is oily in the T zone and dry on the cheeks, then a matting clay mask can be applied to the forehead, nose and chin, a moisturizing composition to the cheeks, and an anti-aging anti-wrinkle mask under the eyes.

  1. strobing.

A makeup option that uses a highlighter to create a radiant effect on prominent areas of the face. Strobing makes the appearance of the skin healthy and glowing from the inside, and facial features - visually more expressive, but this technique is not suitable for owners of very oily skin, which, on the contrary, need to matte the face.

  1. Nontouring.

The make-up technique that replaced the previously so popular (and so unnatural) contouring. This is something between contouring and strobing - both highlighter and bronzer are used, but in small quantities and without sharp transitions to achieve a natural look.

  1. Draping.

This makeup technique was invented back in the 1970s and is now back in fashion. Here, to create sculptural facial features, only two shades of blush are used - light and dark (light - on the cheekbones, dark - under them).

  1. Baking.

A multi-layered make-up technique used by artists and actors who needed to “not lose face” in the spotlight for 2-3 hours of a performance / concert. First, concealer is used to mask, which is then powdered. It turns out a perfectly smooth matte surface of the skin, but it is so dense that an ordinary woman is only suitable for a photo shoot or an evening out.

As you can see, the world of decorative and care cosmetics is constantly updated with new terms - some are born before our eyes, and some return to fashion from the past.

It is more pleasant to listen to and read popular glossy favorite beauty bloggers if you are familiar with the basic terms of the beauty industry and understand what new products are being discussed.

Beauty will save the world - this aphorism has become so popular in all countries for a reason. And we can add only one thing: the world will be saved not only beautiful women, but also smart, because they know that there are no ugly ones - there are badly savvy in beauty issues. We hope this article has helped you understand the new concepts of the modern beauty industry.

And in general, Korean principles of skin care do not lose popularity and continue to set trends, j-beauty - Japanese beauty - begins to seriously compete. As you know, the Korean beauty ritual is based on a multi-step facial (reaching up to 10 steps) and promotes unusual textures in both care and makeup. To understand the basics of j-beauty and how it differs from k-beauty, we spoke with experts from leading Japanese brands.

From birth, the Japanese absorb the love of the beauty of nature and develop the ability to capture all the beauty in it. "Ingredients - vegetable, innovative and safe, tested on the basis of the theory of Intuition of the skin (The theory of scientists Cle de Peau is based on the assumption that the skin has the ability to think, that is, each individual cell of the epidermis processes information. - Approx. Editorial) so that the skin perceives them absolutely naturally. The textures are luxurious and sensual, the presence of aromacology is a must, says Ilona Nikiforova, director of training at Cle de Peau Beaute. - Canons of beauty - radiant natural skin, beautiful, protected and healthy, even, without visible flaws. The Japanese approach comes down not only to effective and beneficial actions for the skin, but also to the fact that each product should cause only exquisite sensations. In Japan, they are absolutely sure that the spirit and the body are a single whole, therefore the mood is very important, and the state of mind during skin care is the main component of the effectiveness of care.

“Ideal porcelain skin of Japanese women and an even complexion is not a gift of nature, but the result of a multi-stage facial care, which all the girls of the Land of the Rising Sun unquestioningly adhere to. The Japanese have long put the ancient beauty ritual on a scientific footing - modern technologies have firmly taken root in production. cosmetics, - explains Anastasia Mochalina, an expert on Japan, a representative of Japonica. -The average Japanese woman uses at least five to six products every day. The whole philosophy of facial care is based on a double action: cosmetics take care of the epidermis (the outer layer of the skin), and you strengthen the dermis (inner layer) with the help of massage. It is pointless to take care of the epidermis without taking care of the dermis at the same time.”

Beauty Rituals and Japanese Aesthetic Principles

The basis Japanese aesthetics wabi-sabi, which includes the concepts of kanso and seijaku, as well as shibui, is unobtrusive beauty, and the entire beauty industry of the country is tuned to this philosophy. “In Japan, beauty ritual is a whole culture. It consists of two stages of cleansing, two stages of moisturizing and a double application technique - with our own hands we warm the skin, apply in a circular motion all means, due to this, microcirculation improves. The products are quickly absorbed, because there are layers in the Asian care, which creates a protective film on the skin, - says Elena Polyakova, the leading training manager of the Sensai and Kanebo brands of the Kanebo Cosmetics Rus company.

“Kanso means “simplicity” in Japanese. This principle is based on getting rid of excesses. Kanso also expresses a feeling of freshness, cleanliness and neatness. This is very close even to modern Japanese women. Their everyday makeup- this is an even tone, a blush and slightly made-up eyelashes. The literal translation of the word shibui is "tart, astringent", in some cases "refined" or "thin". Shibui can be found in almost everything, such as the tart taste of green tea or the scent of good perfume. Sometimes women apply this term to a man in whom there is a special rough masculine beauty, explains Anastasia Mochalina. - As for the principle of seijaku, it means calmness or inner silence. It can be found both in nature and in the character of man, but the principle itself was originally born through the tea ceremony. The Japanese themselves do not associate all these words with the beauty industry, it is rather an internal understanding accessible only to them. But now there is a Western rethinking of terminology due to increased interest in Japanese culture, and native Japanese concepts are gradually acquiring a new meaning.

Differences in textures and number of stages

Since the Japanese beauty ritual involves several successive stages, the textures of all products should be light so as not to interfere with the penetration of other components into the skin. They should be well absorbed and not leave behind a sticky layer. “Water textures are popular in skin care, for example, lotions are used much more often than essences and creams. Creamy textures are more popular in Korea than in Japan. This is due to the cold climate in Korea. Korean women pay much more attention to cleansing the skin of impurities. There is also a difference in aesthetics: in Korea they like to pay attention to the basics and lip makeup, and in Japan - eye makeup. In Korea, it is immediately noticeable that women strive to follow as much as possible more trends. Natural, but flawless makeup is also welcome there. That is why MLBB and MSBB (“My lips, but better” and “My skin, but better”) are popular in Korea - nude, enhancing the natural color and transforming. In Japan, the cornerstone is natural makeup based on individual principles of beauty,” says Kakuyasu Uchiide, International Creative Director of Shu Uemura.

“Korean women are very fond of sponges (konnyaku), and Japanese women whip cleansers with a brush. Also, Japanese women are very fond of different devices for facial massage. But the beauty ritual of Japanese women is more of a philosophy than a practice for Korean women,” says Ilona Nikiforova.

The global difference between Korean and Japanese beauty rituals is that in Japan there are fewer of them, and the textures are lighter. “For example, in Korean care there is a separate stage - treatment, which involves the use of products that act to get rid of acne and blackheads. IN Japanese system care, this process is included in the cleansing phase. Toner is responsible for normalizing pH in Korea, lotion in Japan, says a representative of Japonica. - One of the main criteria for choosing cosmetics for Japanese women is the presence of the SPF factor in the composition. Japanese women prefer to use them all year round to keep your porcelain skin tone. Korean women are also big fans of even skin tone, but due to thicker and oilier skin, this is difficult to achieve. Therefore, even under makeup, they apply anti-acne products.

Main Components

The Japanese trust natural ingredients. “Harmony with nature is a fundamental value. Since ancient times, the Japanese have been using ingredients derived from natural sources. In the beauty industry, the most popular ingredients are isolated from tea, peony, Japanese camellia, and more recently from rice, tofu or sake,” says Kakuyasu Uchiide.

One of the unusual ingredients is horse oil. “It has been a popular ingredient in nourishing creams for centuries. Horse oil lipids are close to human skin lipids, so the cream will be easily absorbed by the skin, moisturize and nourish it. As for hair care, preference is given to natural oils, such as camellia, ”adds Anastasia Mochalina.

“The Japanese see the skin not as a passive target for cosmetics, but as an active participant in the recovery process, so traditional Japanese skin care does not contain ingredients to mask the signs of aging, such as silicones to instantly fill wrinkles and smooth the skin. The most popular is the combination of natural ingredients with high technologies, the action of which is aimed at awakening the skin's own resources, normalizing metabolism (metabolic processes) in skin cells, protecting the skin from external influences, ”says the expert of the brand EviDenS de Beaute.

Why this is the trend of 2018

If we talk about the market in a global sense, then in the last five years it has become so dynamic that one movement replaces another almost once a year. Social media and the Internet have completely changed the pattern of consumption. “Today, you can get a review for every product, and the consumer has become so sophisticated that he needs a huge choice, and he is already ready to move away from the usual cosmetic brands and try something from new trends, be it k-beaurty, j-beauty or small indie brands. And most importantly, the “seekers” segment is gaining strength, which used to be characteristic of a rather young audience, and today it is expanding every year,” Ilona Nikiforova believes.

According to British research firm Euromonitor, Japan has the highest per capita spending on skincare and cosmetics. The Japanese philosophy of beauty itself has a thousand-year history rich in cosmetic innovations. Take oil refining, which is a relatively new concept in the US and has been around in Japan for 50 years.

“Japan's economic problems in the past have forced Korea to lose the lead in the beauty industry. The key factor in the popularity of j-beauty is the fact that the consumer began to understand in more detail what he uses on a daily basis and interest in the quality of the compositions began to come to the fore, and bright and unusual packaging lost its value, ”says an expert on Japan and Japonica representative.

“With the recovery of the economy, and also in the run-up to the Tokyo Summer Olympics in 2020, Japan may once again become the world's beauty center,” said Kakuyasu Uchiide.

“The Japanese invest very honestly in their products, especially brands that have a certain authority in the market. The j-beauty trend is gaining popularity, despite the complexity and multi-stage care. In fact, it only seems that it is long and difficult, but you get used to it and the whole ritual takes only five minutes in the morning and 10 minutes in the evening. And the result, which we get the very next day, exceeds all expectations,” Elena Polyakova assures.

"Japan is not chasing fashion trends but sets its own rules. Therefore, it is very natural that j-beauty has become a big trend in 2018. Women are tired of extended eyelashes and hair, enlarged lips, stenciled eyebrows. Finally, most women have realized that the excessive use of injections does not make them younger, but destroys the harmony of facial features, but harmony is beauty, ”expert EviDenS de Beaute adds.