Ready-made dress pattern for a business woman.

Dress with reliefs and coquettes, pockets and sleeves on the cuffs.

In the middle before a fastener on a lath (loops and buttons). The placket ends with an inverted pleat. On a waist - a small decorative belt on a buckle. On the shelf, the line of vertical relief passes into the line of the pocket. Turn-down collar. All details are stitched with a finishing stitch that emphasizes the lines of the cut. The length of the dress on the back is 102 cm.

The length of the dress, as well as the length of the sleeve, you can adjust yourself, choosing the best option for yourself.

The pattern is given in full size without allowances for seams.

• Bust 96
• Waist 80
• Hips 104

Preparing a pattern for work is easy. Download, print the pattern sheets on a regular printer and connect them in accordance with the diagram. The scheme is the order in which the pattern sheets are connected. It is printed on the first page.

Be sure to check the scale. On a printed sheet with a depicted square of 10x10 cm, the sides of 10 cm should correspond to exactly 10 centimeters. To do this, in the printer settings, set the print scale of the document to 100% (without scaling).

Ready-made patterns are given for a conditionally typical figure. If your figure differs from the conventionally typical one, you should adjust the pattern taking into account the characteristics of your physique and only after that proceed with cutting.

Don't forget to give seam allowances, as well as additional allowances in those places where clarifications are possible when trying on.

Having swept away the details, try on the product, make any necessary corrections and start sewing.

For those who want to build a pattern for a specific figure according to measured standards, we have a detailed step by step instructions for building the base of the dress semi-adjacent silhouette.

Download pattern >>>

Hardworking - a bright light burns through life, lazy - a dim candle

Building a base pattern - THE MOST CLEAR WAY (for beginners)

Good afternoon I would even say a beautiful day. Because we are finally starting a series of articles on tailoring for adults. We have already sewed a lot of things for little girls - both dresses and bodysuits are different - now we will sew for big girls. That is, for yourself. And since we have already practiced sewing, the fear of the pioneer has passed.

SO IT'S TIME TO TAKE A NEW FRONTIER. And by ourselves, with our own hands and our brains, master the wisdom of sewing according to real adult patterns. We will draw the base pattern ourselves - new lung way (I spent more than one week to create this lightweight method for building a base pattern). And then we will sew a bunch of all sorts of dresses, tops and tunics.

No- I will not give you a single ready-made pattern!

I am not Madame Burda. I am Madame Klishevskaya.))) And the main harmfulness of my character lies in the fact ... That I will make your head work and give birth to bright and clear discoveries in the field of sewing. The easiest and most understandable of all arts. Trust me, it is.

Yes- sewing by yourself is very easy and simple!

Right from scratch, you will get more and more beautiful and well-tailored things.

Moreover, you will do everything yourself, without a state of hypnosis, but in a sober mind and bright memory. YOU will DO it - moreover, you will UNDERSTAND what exactly you are doing.

I will reveal to you the secrets that I know. Moreover, I will teach you to discover more and more secrets of the world of sewing and modeling clothes yourself.

I will not lead you (blind and stupid) by the hand in the chaos of letters and numbers indicating the intricacies of the numerous lines of the pattern drawing. NO, I WON'T TAKE YOU HERE:

Well, you must admit, one such picture can catch up with fear and make you doubt own forces the girl who really wants to make a dress- But not very friendly school years with geometry and drawing. Even I - who loves both of these school subjects - beat around the bush for several years - not daring to start delving into the construction of such a drawing: “How long does it take to draw this, and you need to calculate everything correctly and not get confused in the letters ... ".

And, nevertheless, today we will draw a pattern.

We will draw a base pattern (you can see a piece of it from above.))))

But - do not rush to get scared - we will create our pattern a little differently. Away from the engineering and design method - and closer to human understanding.

We will draw one with you - only one and only- pattern.

And then from it we will create more and more new models of dresses. And it will be very easy and simple.

• No obscure formulas
• No messy calculations.
• And without the letter-number cobweb.

Well, how? Have I removed a bit of your concerns?

I now relax - we will not start drawing right now. To begin with, we will take a pleasant walk through the pattern. The purpose of the walk is to get acquainted, make friends with the pattern and remove the last doubt that you can sew any dress.

So ... what is a pattern - the basis?

To put it figuratively, it is a cast from your body. This is your personal imprint. Any thing sewn according to YOUR base pattern will fit perfectly on YOUR figure.

Yes, you heard right - ANY THING can be sewn on the basis one single pattern. All-all models of dresses - are born, modeled, and sewn from one source - this is a base pattern.

I will now prove to you with an example. Even on three examples - in the form of photos and pictures.

Here is the first photo (below). Our base pattern is, in fact, your sheath dress (the one that fits perfectly on the figure). Dress made according to your pattern based, will repeat all the bends your his body. This simple sheath dress is sewn according to the usual pattern-base. You see, it's like a plaster cast of a girl's figure.

And today, having drawn a base pattern, you can safely cut on the fabric - and you will get such a dress. The only thing you can change the neckline is by giving it the shape that suits your face shape.

All other (any, any) dress models are just a modification of a sheath dress - fantasies on a free topic.

That's how it works in the fashion world.

One day the fashion designer thought...“But what if the bodice of the dress at the top is held on the shoulders by a round yoke (yellow outlines - fig. below), and the bodice itself is made in the form of overlapping opposite triangles (red outlines - fig. below). The result is what we see in the photo below.

Beautiful? Beautiful! What did the fashion designer base his fantasies on? On a base pattern. And you can come up with something of your own. We - women - just a lot of fantasy.

By the way - since we are talking about a round yoke here - this site already has one of my articles on creating and

And another fashion designer thought: “But what if you give the sheath dress a looser cut - make it wider. And make the line of the shoulder longer so that it hangs on the arm. And as a result, a new model is born (photo below) - also very beautiful. And very simple.

You can do that too. If you will UNDERSTAND what the base pattern consists of. And by what laws does it exist.

That is why I don't want to stupidly give you instructions on creating a base pattern (such as “draw a line from point P6 to point P5 and mark the place where it intersects with line X with the next point ...” - ugh!).

I want to wake up in you chuechka. I want you to feel the pattern, to know its soul. And learned to see what a simple drawing hides behind a photograph of any, even intricately tailored, dress.

Therefore, for the next 30 minutes we will not draw anything - we will walk along the pattern itself. Let's get acquainted with all its elements - find out what each line is for, and why it is located exactly here and drawn that way.

After such a "cognitive walk" you will feel the joyful clarity of understanding of everything-everything-everything. It's as if you've already drawn basic patterns many times. And take up the drawing with the feeling that this is a couple of trifles. Ha! Delov something!

As the wise man said: “We are afraid only of what we cannot understand and explain logically. But as soon as the thing that frightens us becomes clear to us, it ceases to cause fear in us.

So let's go and tame this "terrible beast" - a base pattern. Tame and draw in 20 minutes. Yes, yes, in 20 minutes - because after a walk - the pattern drawing will seem old and familiar to you simple pattern- like a grid for playing tic-tac-toe.

Where does the base pattern come from?

So where does the base pattern come from - usually it is obtained from such a drawing:

The drawing contains half of the back part + half of the front part.

We will also draw a similar drawing with you - only more simply and clearly.

And what are these halves for, and where to apply them - now I will clearly show everything.

Here (!) I dug up a wonderful sample - below - in the photograph of a black and white dress, our halves are very clearly visible - both half of the back and half of the front. So to speak - clearly and clearly.

Yes, in the Potnovsky language, the halves are called “shelves”. Today we will draw these very shelves of the front and back. But first, let's take a closer look at what elements each shelf consists of. And most importantly, I will tell you what each element is for, what it serves.

To make everything as clear as possible, I will illustrate each of the elements both in pictures and in photographs of real models of dresses.

First, let's get acquainted with two obscure words: TRUCK And ARMHOLE.

Of course, you may know them. Or maybe not. My job is to introduce you.

So, get acquainted - PROYMA

When drawing a base pattern, you will create exactly that bend and size an armhole that fits you—when the armhole doesn't pull or dig into your arm.

That is, the pattern base contains admissible minimum size armholes. You can model the armhole to your taste, any configuration. But your fantasy armhole should not be less than on the base pattern. That is, an armhole on a pattern basis - These are the limits beyond which your imagination should not intercede.

Your model armhole can be arbitrarily larger - but it cannot be smaller than on the base pattern. More - yes, less - no - otherwise it will dig into the armpit. Here is a rule in modeling designer armholes.

Now let's get acquainted with the tucks.

BACK PATCHES - shoulder darts + waist darts

Here in the picture above, I wrote everything about the back darts - and in the photo of the dress you can find 2 waist darts - one to the right of the zipper, the other to the left of the zipper.

But you don’t see the shoulder tuck on this dress. And on many dresses, too, it is not. Because for convenience and beauty, this tuck is transferred from the middle of the shoulder to the zipper (or along the edge of the armhole, where the sleeve will be, a corner is simply cut off). That is, the excess fabric is not pinched at the middle of the shoulder and is not sewn inside the tuck. And the extra fabric cut off in a corner at the edge of the shelf, where the zipper is sewn in, or at the edge of the armhole - where the sleeve will be sewn in.

Also, darts are optional if you sew from stretch fabric - it itself repeats the curves of your body and shrinks both in the shoulder area and in the waist area.

Next, let's get to know… HALF FRONT darts

Oh, you could write a whole poem about her.

I thought for a long time how to explain it more clearly - what it is for and what laws it lives by. I thought and thought ... and came up with.

The fact is that a woman has breasts.))) That is, the front of an adult girl is no longer flat. This means that the dress in the chest area should be convex. The tuck on the shoulder of the front gives the dress this very bulge in the chest area. Now I will show everything in pictures. How does this happen.

For example, we have a flat piece of fabric, but we need to make a convex piece out of it. To do this, you need to make a tuck on it. For example - this flat circle of cardboard, with the help of a tuck, will now become convex.

And here is how the chest tuck creates a bulge on the front detail

You noticed that the top of the bulge (that is, the peak of our round pyramid) is at the point of the tuck. Pay attention to this. Because when we draw a tuck for the chest, the tip of our tuck will be at the top of the chest(where the nipple or dome of the bra is usually located).

Remember that sometimes you measured a dress in your size in a store, which somehow strangely warped on your chest - this is because the tuck in the dress was directed with its tip past top of your chest. Here the chest did not fit perfectly into the bulge of the dress. Not under your breast shape, this product was cut at the factory.

But that is not all, what I want to say about the chest tuck.

The fact is that in almost all dresses this chest tuck is located not on the shoulder- A on the side just below the armpit. It's made for beauty. The tuck on the shoulder is more conspicuous, but on the side, and even covered by the hand, it is not noticeable.

When creating a base pattern, we draw a chest tuck on the shoulder only because it is more convenient to draw it there from the point of view of building a drawing.

And after the drawing of the base pattern is ready, we very easily and simply transfer the tuck from the shoulder area to the axillary area. Do not think that for this you need to make new drawings. Nope, everything is simple here - how to open a carton of milk - one minute and that's it.

Here, in the picture below, I schematically depicted transfer of the chest tuck from the shoulder to the side seam at hand.

Well, do you already feel how you have grown wiser in these 15 minutes?))) Whether there will be more ... We continue our walk along the pattern and now we will get acquainted with the lines. horizontal lines

CHEST LINE

The first acquaintance is the line of the chest. (A beautiful dress, isn't it? We'll sew it with you. Don't even hesitate)

The chest line is the most wonderful line on the pattern. It is so convenient to navigate it when drawing a base pattern, because:

• We know that we finish drawing the waist tuck of the back on the chest line.
• We know that we finish drawing the waist tuck before reaching 4 cm to the chest line.
• We know that shoulder tuck front - we finish drawing on the chest line.
• We know that the lower edges of the armholes also run along the chest line.

Well, no, of course, you don't know that yet. I am all these simple rules ladies when we start to draw. And for now, I just want you to know that when drawing many elements of the pattern, you can simply focus on the line of the chest (and there is no need to painstakingly put down these alphanumeric dots).

As you can see, there are a lot!! Therefore, go ahead - learn, sew and enjoy life)))

AND WHAT SHOULD I DO NEXT - WITH THE PATTERN BASIS? - you ask

And we will begin to sew according to the pattern-base of TOPS. Namely tops, T-shirts, tunics and then dresses.

You ask: "Hey, why not just dresses?". I give the answer to this question already in the first article of the cycle, so to be continued)))

Good luck with your sewing!

The famous Coco Chanel once said: “If you remember a woman, but did not remember the dress that she was wearing, then she was dressed perfectly!” Find your perfect dress with us and sew it!
We offer you the most accurate dress patterns for every taste and for every occasion: short and long dresses, patterns of dresses with sleeves and without sleeves, puffy and figure-shaped dresses. You can use ready-made model solutions, or design your own dresses using the modeling methods presented in the Sewing School.
If you are new to sewing, start with simpler models - sew a dress with a simple silhouette, evaluate the accuracy of the pattern, the fit. If the dress "village" is perfect, move on to more complex models. Use high-quality fabrics and threads, because it is the fabric that is the soloist in dresses of a simple cut, creating a chic image of a sophisticated lady. Be sure to build at the beginning, according to which you will model your future creation.
We have prepared a lot for you. useful tips, master classes, ready-made dress patterns, and basic patterns on different types figures.
Sewing with us is easy, the main thing that is required of you is a great desire to master this exciting and creative skill. Are you ready to plunge into the world of fashion with us? Then choose and sew!

On the eve of the holidays, Anastasia Korfiati's Sewing School has prepared a pleasant surprise for all readers of the website. Especially for you, Anastasia Korfiati has created a simple cut, but incredibly spectacular festive dress made of blue-emerald glitter with a degraded effect. Such a model is suitable for almost any figure and, depending on the color and quality of the material from which you sew it, it will look completely different. Sparkling glitter, luxurious jacquard, satin, silk and even lace - any elegant fabric will suit this dress. Finished pattern festive dress for 5 sizes and tips on modeling for a non-standard figure - in our next lesson.

Simple in cut, but very warm and comfortable, a free silhouette dress was created especially for the cold season. The model is made of soft textured knitted fabric and has several non-standard details: counter pleats on the sleeves simulate volume, large patch pockets cut across create geometry, the original hem of the lower edge adds lightness to the product. Spectacular buttons play the role of bright accents and give the model a complete look. And even if you're not a fan short dresses Combining this warm dress with tight skinny jeans, leggings or thick woolen tights, you will feel comfortable in any situation. A pattern and a master class on sewing a warm dress are in this lesson.

The quality of the material that is used for tailoring is often the starting point when creating a product sketch. The density, elasticity coefficient and color of the material give rise to the designer's imagination of the outlines and silhouette lines of the future model. For our next lesson, we created a model from dense “heavy” dark plum synthetic jersey, and when working on the model, it was the material that dictated the silhouette of the dress. It turned out to be a product that can emphasize all the advantages of a female figure!

A one-piece sleeve is not only a very popular modern trend, but also an excellent solution for soft-shaped clothing, because the shoulder line of such a sleeve turns out to be a streamlined smooth shape, and the configuration of the shoulder slope and the width of the sleeve itself can be varied depending on the angle of the sleeve inclination during modeling. Let's take a closer look at what types of one-piece sleeves are, how they differ and how to model a one-piece sleeve with a gusset on your own.

Every fashion show famous designer and inimitable style icon Victoria Beckham is a real event and always collects a huge amount of admiring reviews. Dresses created by her almost never go out of fashion - elegant forms, flying silhouettes and enveloping fabrics are the main components of the success of her models. Due to numerous requests from our subscribers, we are publishing a pattern that we developed based on a dress from Victoria Beckham.

Puffy voluminous sleeves are a very bright and feminine trend of the season. And since this style focuses even more on the figure and makes it very elegant, girls follow with pleasure. fashion trend and choose dresses with similar sleeves. A striking example of this is Celine Dion's recent appearance at the Alexandre Vauthier show, where the singer appeared in a mini dress with grotesque puffy floor-length sleeves. We do not suggest that you plunge headlong into bold experiments, but start with a sophisticated and feminine dress with open shoulder line and voluminous sleeves.

We couldn't get past original idea a viscose dress with a high ascot collar, the bow in which is sewn separately and tied with large eyelets installed directly on the corners of the collar. We are sure that you, looking at this wonderful dress, will want to sew a similar one for your wardrobe!

When preparing for a vacation, it is better to think over your wardrobe in advance. Clothing should be not only bright, but also comfortable, and the fabrics from which you plan to sew your beach dress or tunic allow the skin to breathe and at the same time they do not form too many folds and creases when you take them off when you come to the beach. The ideal material for such clothes is undoubtedly cotton jersey. And today we offer you two luxury models beach dresses that you can sew without any pattern in just half an hour. All you need is a piece of fabric and a sewing machine.

patterns women's dresses from the Grasser Bureau

The dress is the type of clothing that can perfectly emphasize the beauty of the female figure. Especially if such a dress is sewn individually. The GRASSER online store offers simple dress patterns that will be of interest to both beginners and experienced seamstresses. In our catalog you can pick up patterns of various models and for different female figures. Such patterns are created by real professionals of our clothing design and modeling bureau. This ensures that when sewing a dress, you will encounter a minimum of difficulties or problems.

Advantages of buying a ready-made pattern in our bureau:

• The pattern is made for a specific size (from 38 to 54);
• We offer patterns modern models dresses inspired by fashion shows;
• An accessible description with diagrams and instructions is attached to the pattern;
• All patterns of dresses can be bought at a very low price.

Sewing a dress according to the pattern is easy!

Even if you are new to tailoring, ready-made pattern the whole process of creating a dress will not take you much time. It is very convenient that all patterns are designed for printing them both on a conventional printer on A4 sheets and on a large-format plotter. Immediately after paying for the order, you will receive your pattern in PDF format, which can be downloaded from your personal account. Using our simple patterns, you will get real pleasure by creating an original new thing for your wardrobe.

Take the following measurements:

For example, I use the size 48 standard, and you take measurements from your figure or from the figure of the person you are going to sew this dress for.

Name of measurements and symbols	cm	Taking measurements
Half neck		Measured at the base of the neck. The measurement is recorded in half size.
Half bust		This measurement determines the size of the figure. The measuring tape should run along the protruding parts of the shoulder blades on the back and along the highest part of the chest. The measurement is recorded in half size.
Half waist		Measure at the narrowest point of the waist. The measurement is recorded in half size.
Semi circumference of the hips		Measure horizontally at the most protruding points of the buttocks, taking into account the bulge of the abdomen. The measurement is recorded in half size.
		Measure from the seventh cervical vertebra to the waist line. The measure is recorded in full.
		It is measured by placing a centimeter tape horizontally between the rear corners of the armpits at the level of the protruding parts of the shoulder blades. The measurement is recorded in half size.
Front length to waist		Measure from the shoulder line at the base of the neck through the protruding point of the chest to the waist line. The measure is recorded in full.
chest height		Measure from the shoulder line at the base of the neck to the protruding point of the chest. (This measurement is performed simultaneously with the previous one). The measure is recorded in full.
chest center		Measure along a horizontal line between the protruding points of the chest. The measurement is recorded in half size.
Shoulder length		Measure along the line of the shoulder from the base of the neck to the shoulder joint. The measure is recorded in full.
Arm circumference		Measure around the arm armpit. The measure is recorded in full.
wrist circumference		Measured at the wrist joint. The measure is recorded in full.
Sleeve length to elbow		Measure from shoulder joint to elbow. The measure is recorded in full.
The length of the sleeve		Measure from the shoulder joint to the wrist. The measure is recorded in full.
Length of the product		Measure from the seventh (protruding) cervical vertebra in the middle of the back to the required length. The measure is recorded in full.
Free fit allowances: along the chest line 5 cm, along the waistline 1 cm, along the hip line 2 cm.

On the left side of the prepared sheet of paper, swipe vertical line on which set aside the length of the dress, in our case 110 cm, and put points A and H. Draw perpendicular lines through A and H to the right.

From A to the right, set aside the half-girth of the chest plus 5 cm. and put point B (48+5=53cm). Draw a line from B down to the intersection with the bottom line and put a point H1.

Rice. 2

From A down, set the length of the back to the waist plus 0.5 cm and put T (38 + 0.5 \u003d 38.5 cm). From T to the right, draw a line to the intersection with the BH1 line, put a point at the intersection T1.

Rice. 3

From T down, set aside 1/2 the length of the back to the waist and place B (38/2 \u003d 19cm). Draw a line from B to the right, mark the intersection with BH1 as B1.

Rice. 4

From A to the right, set aside the width of the back plus 1.5 cm and put A1 (18 + 1.5 = 19.5 cm).

Rice. 5

From A1 to the right, set aside 1/4 of the half-girth of the chest plus 0.5 cm. and put A2 (48:4+0.5=12.5). From A1 and A2 down draw lines of arbitrary length.

Rice. 6

From A to the right, set aside 1/3 of the half-girth of the neck plus 0.5 cm and put A3 (18: 3 + 0.5 = 6.5). For figures with fatty deposits in the region of the seventh cervical vertebra, the neck width is increased by 0.5 cm. From A3 up, set aside 1/10 of the half-girth of the neck plus 0.8 cm and place A4 (18:10 + 0.8 = 2.6 cm). Divide the corner at point A3 in half and draw a line. On this line, set aside 1/10 of the half-girth of the neck minus 0.3 cm and put A5, (18:10-0.3 \u003d 1.5 cm). Connect the points A4, A5 and A obtained as a result of the construction with a smooth curve.

Rice. 7

From A1, lay down 2.5 cm for normal shoulders, 3.5 cm for sloping, 1.5 cm for high and put a point P. Connect points A4 and P. From A4, set aside the length of the shoulder plus 2 cm on the tuck and put P1 (13.5 + 2 = 15.5 cm). On the received line A4P1 from A4 to the right, set aside 4 cm and put a point O. From O down, set aside 8 cm and put O1. From O to the right, set aside 2 cm and put O2. Connect points O1 and O2. From point O1 through point O2, set aside a value equal to the segment O, O1 - 8 cm (so that the sides of the tuck are the same length) and set O3. Connect points O3 and P1.

Rice. 8

From P down, set aside ¼ of the half-girth of the chest plus 7 cm. (for stooped figures plus 7.5 cm, for kinky figures plus 6.5 cm) and put a point G (48: 4 + 7 = 19 cm). For obese women(58 size and more) the depth of the armhole is made 1 cm less. Through G to the left and right, draw a horizontal line to the intersection with AN, designate G1, with the armhole width line G2, with the line VH1, designate G3.

Rice. 9

From G up, set aside 1/3 of the distance of the PG plus 2 cm and put P2 (19: 3 + 2 = 8.3). Divide the corner at point G in half and set aside 1/10 of the width of the armhole plus 1.5 cm and put a point P3 (12.5:10 + 1.5 = 2.8 cm), divide the GG2 line in half and put G4. Connect points P1, P2, P3 and G4.

Rice. 10

From G2 up, set aside ¼ of the half-girth of the chest plus 5 cm (for stooped figures plus 4.5 cm, for kinky figures plus 5.5 cm) and put P4 (48: 4 = 5 = 17 cm). For obese women (size 58 and more), the cut of the armhole is 1 cm smaller. From P4 to the left, set aside 1/10 of the half-girth of the chest and put P5 (48:10 \u003d 4.8 cm) from G2 up, set aside 1/3 of the value of the segment G2P4 and put P6 (17: 3 \u003d 5.7). Connect P5 and P6 with a dotted line, divide in half and set aside 1 cm to the right at a right angle. Divide the corner at point G2 in half and set aside 1/10 of the width of the armhole plus 0.8 cm, put P7 (12.5:10 + 0.8 = 2.1 cm) P5.1, P6, P7, G4 connect.

Rice. eleven

From G3 up, set aside 1/2 of the half-girth of the chest plus 1.5 cm and put B1 (48: 2 + 1.5 = 25.5 cm). For stooped figures, set aside 1/2 of the half-girth of the chest plus 1 cm, for kinky figures, plus 2 cm. For overweight women (size 58 and over), the neckline is 1 cm smaller. Set aside the same value from G2 up and put B2. Connect B1 and B2. From B1 to the left, set aside 1/3 of the half-girth of the neck plus 0.5 cm and put B3 (18: 3 + 0.5 = 6.5 cm). From B1 down, set aside 1/3 of the half-girth of the neck plus 2 cm and put B4 (18: 3 + 2 \u003d 8 cm). Connect B3 and B4 with a straight line and divide it in half. Draw a line from B1 through the division point, on which set aside 1/3 of the half-girth of the neck plus 1 cm and put B5 (18: 3 + 1 = 7 cm). We connect points B3, B5 and B4 and get the line of the neck of the shelf.

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Center of the chest. From G3 to the left, set aside the measurement of the center of the chest and put G6. Draw a line from G6 up to the intersection with line B1B2. Place point B6 at the intersection.

From B6 down, set aside the measurement of chest height and put G7

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Set aside 1 cm from B6 down and put B7. Connect points B3 and B7. Connect points B7 and P5 with a dotted line. On the line P5 B7 from point P5 to the right, set aside the length of the shoulder minus the value of the segment B3B7 minus 0.3 cm and put B8 (13.5-3-0.3 \u003d 10.2 cm). From point G7 through point B8, draw a segment along the length equal to segment G7B7 and put B9. Connect points B9 and P5.

Rice. 14

Start of construction. From G to the right, set aside 1/3 of the width of the armhole and place G5 (12.5: 3 = 4.2 cm). draw a vertical line through point G5. At the intersection with the armhole line, put a point P, at the intersections with the waist, hips and bottom lines, put points T2, B2, H2.

Rice. 15

Determination of the solution of tucks along the waist line. Add 1 cm to the waist measurement for a free fit (38+1=39), then subtract this value from the width of the dress along the TT1 line (53-39=14 cm). We get a common solution of tucks 14cm. The size of the solution of the front tuck is 0.25 of the total solution of the darts (14x0.25=3.5cm), the side tuck is 0.45 (14x0.45=6.3cm), the back is 0.3 (14x0.3=4.2cm).

Determining the width of the dress along the hip line. Add 2 cm to the half-circumference of the hips for a loose fit (53 + 2 = 55 cm). From the resulting value, subtract the width of the dress along the line BB1 ​​(55-53 \u003d 2cm). Distribute the result equally between the shelf and the back, i.e. 1 cm.

Let's start building darts. Set aside 1 cm from B2 to the left and right and put B3 and B4. From T2 to the left and right, set aside half of the solution of the side tuck (6.3: 2 \u003d 3.2) and put T3 and T4. Connect point P with points T3 and T4. Connect points T3 B4 and T4 B3 with a dotted line, divide it in half, set aside 0.5 cm from the division points to the side and connect them with a smooth curve with points B3 T4 and the other side with B4 T3.

Rice. 16

NOTE: If the half-length of the hips plus the allowance for a loose fit is less than the width of the dress, the result will be negative. For example, if with a chest half-girth of 48 cm, the hip half-girth is 50 cm, then in the calculation we will get a negative value (50 + 2 - 53 \u003d -1 cm). We distribute this value equally between the shelf and the back (-1: 2 \u003d - 0.5 cm) and put B3 and B4 from point B2 to the left and right by 0.5 cm. See figure "If the result is negative"

Rice. 17

If during the calculation you get zero as a result, then points B3 and B4 will coincide with point B2.
See figure "When the result is zero"

Rice. 18

From B1 down, set aside the length of the front waist plus 0.5 cm and place T5 (43 + 0.5 = 43.5 cm). Connect T4 and T5 with a smooth line.
From B1 down, set aside the value of the segment T1, T5 and put B5. Connect points B5 and B3 with a smooth line.

Rice. 19

Divide the distance G, G1 in half, mark the division point as G8. From G8, lower the line down to the intersection with the line B, B1. At the intersections with the waist line and the hip line, put points and mark them as T6 and B6. From T6 to the left and to the right, set aside half of the solution of the back tuck (4.2: 2 \u003d 2.1) and put T7 and T8. From G8 down, set aside 1 cm; from B6, set aside 3 cm up. Connect these points to T7 and T8.

Rice. 20

Draw a line from G6 down to the intersection with line B, B1. Intersections with the lines of the waist and hips designate T9 and B7. From T9 to the left and to the right, set aside half the solution of the front tuck (3.5: 2 \u003d 1.7) and put T10 and T11. From G7 down, and from B7 up, set aside 4 cm, put dots and connect them to T10 and T11.

Rice. 21

Shelf bottom line. Draw lines from B3 and B4 down to the intersection of I with H, H1 and mark H3 and H4. If the dress should be extended downwards from H3 and H4 to the left and right, set aside 3-7 cm and connect with B3 and B4. In the drawing, these lines are shown by dotted lines. From H1 down, set aside the value of the segment T1T5 and set the point H5. Connect points H3 and H5.

Rice. 22

All. The dress pattern is ready.

This is the basic drawing, on the basis of which you can design any style from the whole variety of styles of dresses.

Rice. 23

I wish you all creative inspiration!

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