Soap has long been a mandatory item of hygiene and remains so to this day. However, all cosmetic products are being improved in pursuit of a capricious buyer and manufacturers are looking for more and more "competitive advantages". At one time, “balanced pH” became such a marketing chip. Now pH 5.5 is practically a mandatory option for every self-respecting soap. Let's take a look at exactly how the acidity level of a cleanser affects the skin.
The Acid Mantle of Marchionini
What is this: On the surface of the skin there is a hydrolipid film, an acid mantle, which is the first skin barrier. This film is called the Marchionini mantle. The Marchionini mantle contains lactic acid, various amino acids that are excreted by the sweat and sebaceous glands, free fatty acids, pyrrolidonic acid, etc. All this gives the skin a natural “acidic” reaction (I remind you that pH below 7.0 is considered acidic in chemistry).
Functional: The skin and acid mantle are only interested in attaching bacteria that are beneficial and protect the host from pathogens. The acidic environment fixes the “good” bacteria, and does not allow the bad ones to develop, this is how the skin microflora is formed. The main function of the mantle is to protect the skin from bacterial and fungal infections, to provide protection against alkaline substances and microorganisms. The integral acid mantle supports the formation and maturation of epidermal lipids, and as a result, the "wall" remains indestructible.
This figure represents the value of the acidity of the skin of a certain "average person". Marchionini determined the pH of healthy human skin to be between 3.0 and 5.0. Later, the famous Blanc clarified that the natural pH of the skin is still somewhat higher - 4.2 to 5.6. It is now believed that the normal pH of the skin is in the range of 5.0-6.0. Manufacturers of cosmetics take this into account: almost all mass-market products, including face creams, are in this range. And the number "5.5" itself became popular thanks to marketers from Johnson & Johnson (who care about you and your health).
pH 5.5 is also called "balanced". Strictly speaking, this is illiterate. In fact, any cleansing beauty product is pH balanced. If the pH formula is not balanced, then the product will simply be spoiled. At the same time, the pH can be absolutely anything, there are professional peels with an acidity level of 2.0, and there are natural soaps with 8.0, and all of them are balanced.
What is dangerous alkalization: When using products with a high pH, the components that make the mantle acidic are washed out. The skin, of course, will restore its losses, but this will take time. Oily skin will recover in 3 hours, dry skin needs up to 14 hours, and it will be especially difficult for it, because in 14 hours you can wash yourself at least once more, that is, the “vicious circle” cannot be broken, the skin never fully recovers. As a result, colonization of the skin by harmful microorganisms will begin, and you will get an inflammatory reaction. The optimal conditions for most harmful microorganisms is a pH level of about 7.0, and acne bacteria develop already when the pH of the skin just begins to exceed 5.5.
The fuss and hype around pH has spawned a lot of very tenacious myths that wander from blog to blog and from article to article. At first glance, the information looks plausible: do not wash your face with bar soap, oily skin needs to be scrubbed harder, and most importantly, the label should have the same indicator of 5.5. In fact, everything is somewhat more complicated.
Myth #1: Soap dries out the skin.
- Natural soap- a solid product, a mixture of higher fatty acids and glycerol. Fatty acids are made up of vegetable oils and animal fats. The production of soap is based on the saponification reaction, resulting in the formation of alkali metal salts and alcohols. Even if the soap leaves a pleasant oily film, the pH of such soap will always be alkaline - from 9-11.
- Syndet soap- solid product, mixture of synthetic detergents and soaps (no more than 10%), which are much less drying to the skin.
If on the label at the beginning of the list of components we see a surfactant such as lauryl sulfate or Sodium Lauroyl Isethionate, this is a syndet, most likely with a neutral pH. Yes, that very aggressive lauryl sulfate in cleansers has an acidity of 5.5! But if something like Sodium Palmate is at the top of the list, then this is most likely a natural alkaline soap.
We are accustomed to calling soap something lumpy, hence the confusion. But, as you can see, there is a difference, syndet can be brought to a neutral or slightly acidic pH (this is the majority of soaps on supermarket shelves), but the pieces " self made"and other" black African "has a pH of 10.5 to 11.0. So the impact on the acid mantle will be different.
Myth number 2. Wash oily skin more strongly, do not wash dry skin at all.
At oily skin Indeed, the sebaceous glands are very active, which means that there is also excessive sebum, which many people try to remove by all means. They go and natural soap"from valuable oils", and toners with astringents and alcohols, and much more.
The result is usually deplorable - dehydrated, sensitive, but still oily skin (in the T-zone), most often with acne. You already understood the reason: the acid mantle is broken and the pathogenic microflora begins to grow. Oily skin with acne does not need to be further alkalized. Your choice is in the exact opposite direction - acidic care products. It is not for nothing that products for problem skin often contain salicylic acid, the working pH range of which is about 3.5.
Dry skin also has an increased pH, because the sebaceous and sweat glands are not so active, which means that there are not enough “acids” in the mantle. When caring for dry skin, it is also better to choose products with an acidic pH, but in the composition look not for salicylic, but for glycolic or lactic acids, which, in addition to exfoliating, moisturize.
Myth #3: A pH of 5.5 will protect your skin from irritation.
A very convenient myth. It would seem that everything is so simple, to track only one parameter. Alas, the irritating effect is obtained from a combination of many factors - the aggressiveness of surfactants, their combination, additional emollients in the formula, flavors and, finally, pH. Our skin is a very complex structure, in addition to affecting the acid mantle, cleansers also affect the protective barrier lipids and even proteins. So do not piously believe that "5.5" on the label will protect you from all troubles, you should carefully study the composition.
Today, most products on the market have a pH of 5.5-7.0, which is quite normal for healthy skin, but if you have acne or dry skin, it already has an elevated pH, and an acid product should definitely be your choice.
Tatiana Morrison
Photo istockphoto.com
Nearly a century ago, Schade and Marchionini first coined the term Säuremantel or "acid mantle" to describe the inherent acidic environment of the stratum corneum. In the last decade, it has been shown that skin pH largely influences barrier homeostasis, the integrity and strength of the stratum corneum (SC), as well as the antimicrobial defense mechanisms of the skin.
Despite strong evidence that skin pH plays an important role in MS function, the application of the concept of clinical care for the “acid mantle” has lagged behind. The importance of maintaining an acidic skin pH, especially when it affects certain skin conditions, remains a recognized topic among practicing dermatologists in the United States. There is a shortage of low pH soaps, cleaners and moisturizers available in the US market.
The purpose of this article is to reintroduce the concept of the “acid mantle” and provide the reader with objective evidence that skin pH is closely related to vital MS function. Impossible to ignore the last placed compelling base Scientific research about the role of pH as the main factor that ensures the function of the MS. Abnormal pH is noted in a number of skin diseases, which will be discussed below. Finally, practical recommendations will be discussed regarding the use of soaps, cleaners and moisturizers that contribute to the preservation of the “acid mantle”.
Physiological skin pH
The pH of the skin is generally acidic, in the pH range of 4-6, while internal environment organism is maintained close to neutral (pH 7-9). This creates a sharp pH gradient of 2-3 units between the pH of the PC and the pH of the epidermis and dermis. The physiological role of the acidic surface of the skin is to carry out defense mechanisms against invading microorganisms. More recently, it has been shown that several key enzymes involved in the synthesis and technical support competent barrier of the skin to a large extent affect its pH. Therefore, there is a better understanding of the importance of pH in relation to the function and integrity of the skin.
Factors Affecting Skin pH
A number of factors, incl. both endogenous and exogenous, affect the pH of the skin. (see Table No. 1).
Table I. Factors affecting skin pH (adopted by Yosipovitch et al. 1996)
Age
Immediately after birth, the pH of the skin surface of both term and preterm infants is higher than that of adults and older children. The average pH value is from 6 to 7.08 in different parts of the body in the first day of life of full-term newborns, which is much higher than that of adults (pH 5.7). pH decreases sharply in the first days of the postpartum period. The pH value later in infancy is similar to that of adults.
The decrease in pH occurs from day 3 to day 30 of the neonatal period and is most pronounced in the forearms compared to the forehead, cheeks and buttocks. There is no difference in pH values between different parts of the body in a newborn at 1-2 days after birth. During the day, the pH is higher on the cheeks and buttocks and lower on the forehead and forearms. This apparent discrepancy can be attributed to external factors, namely diaper occlusion of the gluteal region and exposure to climatic factors on the exposed skin of the cheeks. Eczema tends to lower the pH on the extensor surfaces of the extremities and also in newborns on the cheeks compared to normal skin and in adults. The increased desquamation observed in the first few days after birth is largely due to the increased pH level. Elevated pH levels are known to increase the activity of the serine proteases kallikrein 5 and 7, which are involved in desquamation and degradation of corneodesmosomes. An increase in the activity of these enzymes under conditions of more high levels pH probably explains the increased desquamation seen in the first few days after delivery, when the skin surface is more alkaline. In addition, key enzymes involved in barrier permeability, β-glucocerebrosidase and acid sphingomyelinase, which require an acidic pH, are not fully activated during the neonatal period, resulting in decreased skin hydration.
An increase in skin pH and a decrease in buffering capacity have also been documented in the skin of older people. Ceramide deficiency in the skin, observed in old age, also contributes to the alkalinization of the skin. Alkaline external stimuli, which have a pH optimum of 9, contribute to the degradation of the lipid barrier and are more active in old age.
pH and skin area
There are "physiological gaps" in the acid barrier of the skin, which depend on the specific area of the skin, especially in the interdigital spaces and in large folds - axillary, inguinal, inframammary, where the pH is higher compared to other areas of the skin. Higher pH values in the axillary folds lead to colonization with propionobacteria and staphylococci, which contribute to the formation of odor. Deodorants containing citrates lower the pH and inhibit bacterial activity. Candidal intertrigo of large folds also predominantly develops in an alkaline environment.
Pigmented skin
Gunathilake et al. note a significantly more acidic skin surface in dark-skinned individuals (Fitzpatrick IV-V), compared with weakly pigmented types (Fitzpatrick I-II) (pH 4.6 ± 0.03 vs. 5.0 ± 0.04). In addition, higher integrity and barrier function were observed in individuals with dark skin. These qualities have been attributed to an increase in epidermal lipids, an increase in the density of lamellar bodies, and a decrease in pH in dark-skinned people. Serine protease activity was reduced in a more acidic environment in dark skinned individuals and increased at higher pH in lightly pigmented individuals. In addition, acidification of the skin in individuals with skin types I-II with topical polyhydroxy acids to the pH observed in individuals with skin type IV-V improved barrier functions to a level comparable to that of the dark-skinned group.
skin pH and barrier function
The permeability of the stratum corneum (stratum corneum) depends on its hydrophobic nature, the distribution of lipids, and the organization of lipids into lamellar bilayers. Several pH-dependent enzymes are involved in the formation of the stratum corneum barrier, in particular its lipophilic components. Two key enzymes involved in lipid processing, β-glucocerebrosidase and acid sphingomyelinase, function at optimal pH of 5.6 and 4.5, respectively. Both are involved in the synthesis of ceramides, critical components of barrier permeability. The activity of β-glucocerebrosidase is 10 times lower at pH 7.4 than at pH 5.5. The processing of lipids secreted by lamellar organs and the formation of a layered structure require an acidic environment. Studies in mice and humans support the claim that pH affects the barrier function of the skin. In bald mice exposed to acetone, barrier function recovered faster in the presence of an acidic buffer compared to a neutral buffer. Similarly, blockade or suppression of secretory phospholipase A2, or the sodium-proton exchanger, both of which are involved in acidification of the stratum corneum, resulted in compromised permeability and integrity of the stratum corneum. Finally, studies have shown that at pH levels above the pH of normal skin, the skin barrier is disrupted, associated with increased activity of serine proteinases and decreased activity of ceramide-generating enzymes.
Recently, Hatano et al. showed that the maintenance of an acidic environment in the stratum corneum by the use of polyhydroxy acids prevents the development of hapten-induced atopic dermatitis in mice. Lowering the pH in mice prevented epidermal tissue hyperplasia, reduced eosinophilia, and normalized epidermal structures. Their conclusions - topical acid preparations can change the course of inflammatory dermatoses.
skin pH and stratum corneum integrity
pH affects not only barrier homeostasis, but also affects the integrity and desquamation of the stratum corneum. The serine proteases kallikrein 5 and kallikrein 7 function optimally in a neutral environment and are closely associated with desquamation by acting on desmoglein 1. With an increase in pH, serine proteases are activated, while the enzymes responsible for the creation of ceramides, which are optimally acidic, are inactivated with damage for the structure and function of the stratum corneum.
skin pH and antimicrobial properties
Normal skin flora grows at acidic pH values, while pathogenic bacteria such as S. aureus grow at neutral pH. Dermicidin, an antimicrobial peptide found in sweat, exhibits antimicrobial activity against various pathogens. When S. aureus was incubated in the seventh sweat fraction containing dermicidin, a bactericidal effect exceeding 90% was observed in pH 5.5 buffer, while this effect decreased to 60% in pH 6.5 buffer. Chikakane & Takashashi also observed a decrease in the antibacterial activity of cationic substances, for example, some basic proteins, due to a decrease in acidity. Nitrates, which are produced in the sweat glands, are converted by bacteria into nitrites. Nitrites serve as a non-specific antibacterial defense mechanism. This happens in an acidic environment.
skin pH in diseases
The skin permeability barrier, when properly functioning, gives the skin the ability to resist external agents and retain moisture. The stratum corneum, pH and permeability are co-dependent. Several dermatoses, discussed below, are characterized by impaired barrier permeability and altered skin pH.
Atopic dermatitis (AD)
In a study of 100 children with AD, it was observed that their pH was significantly higher in lesions and in apparently unaltered skin compared to skin 21 healthy child. In addition, higher pH values were found in areas of the skin corresponding to more intense itching and dryness of the skin in patients with AD.
Why is the pH changed in atopic skin? Several factors have been suggested. The levels of free amino acids and urocanic acid, which are believed to be involved in creating an acidic environment in the stratum corneum, are markedly reduced in atopic skin. A prerequisite for this is a deficiency of the protein filaggrin. Sweat rich in lactic acid is also believed to contribute to the formation of an acid mantle that reduces the manifestations of AD. Finally, in AD, abnormal secretion of lamellar bodies has been noted that can influence pH, just as exocytosis of lamellar bodies is a source of protons for acidifying the stratum corneum.
Impaired barrier function in AD can be explained, in particular, by the disturbed process of synthesis, release and maturation of stratum corneum lipids, which depends on enzymes that function in an acidic environment. Abnormal lipid organization, namely the predominance of the gel phase over the crystalline phase of lamellar structures, has been described in patients with AD. The formation of a lamellar liquid crystal phase occurs at pH values of 4.5-6. Serine proteases, in particular the enzyme stratum corneum chymotrypsin, which has a pH optimum of 8, may also play a role in the pathogenesis of AD. Transgenic mice with elevated serine protease activity develop AD-like dermatosis. Expression of the enzyme chymotrypsin in the stratum corneum is significantly increased in chronic eczema. In addition, serine proteases cause itching by activating PAR-2 receptors on keratinocytes and nerve cells in atopic skin.
Ichthyosis
Öhman & Vahlquist found that skin pH was significantly higher in patients with ichthyosis vulgaris (5.3 ± 0.7) than in patients with x-linked ichthyosis (4.6 ± 0.4) and healthy subjects (4.5 ± 0.2). Filaggrin is known to be reduced in ichthyosis vulgaris and is also thought to play a role in acidifying the stratum corneum. Conversely, in X-linked ichthyosis, steroid sulfatase leads to the accumulation of cholesterol sulfate and the leveling of the pH gradient. Enzymes involved in desquamation are pH dependent and pH changes interfere with normal desquamation. The use of acid preparations with lactic acid promotes keratolysis and is effective in ichthyosis.
candidal intertrigo
Candida albicans, a dimorphic yeast, is pH dependent. An acidic pH promotes the formation of blastospores of the fungus, and an increase in pH promotes the formation of a pathogenic mycelial form of the fungus. In one study, a C. albicans solution was applied as an occlusive dressing on the left and right forearms with different pH buffers (6.0 and 4.5). Skin reactions after 24 hours were more pronounced on the higher pH arm in 14 out of 15 people. Acidified nitrite cream is reported to have antifungal activity. Diabetics are especially prone to developing candidal intertrigo. In a study in patients with non-insulin-dependent diabetes mellitus, skin pH was significantly higher in the skin folds of diabetics compared to healthy individuals. Interestingly, there is no difference in forearm pH between the two groups. The high pH of diabetic skin folds has been interpreted as a possible contributing factor in the susceptibility of diabetic patients to Candida infection.
Diaper dermatitis (PD)
A number of factors play a role in the development of PD, incl. prolonged exposure to urine and feces, increased hydration, changes in the microbial flora of the skin, changes in skin pH. A significant correlation was demonstrated between the severity of PD and elevated skin pH in the diaper contact area. Exposure to urine and feces generates ammonia, creating an alkaline environment. Alkaline pH activates fecal proteases and lipases, which disrupt the skin barrier. Elevated pH levels also affect susceptibility to C. albicans. C. albicans is the microorganism most commonly associated with PD. Recently, Beguin et al. tested diapers treated with acid cellulose to maintain a pH of 4.5-5.5. Resolution of existing irritant skin lesions was noted in 8 of 12 patients after switching to acidified diapers. In addition, tampons have been developed and commercially available that reduce the normally elevated vaginal pH during menstruation. Vaginal pH in healthy premenopausal women ranges from 3.5-4.5. Blood pH is 7.4 and vaginal pH increases during menstruation. RepHresh has created effective pH swabs containing citric acid and L-lactide, which are currently available and used to lower pH.
Irritant contact dermatitis (IRD)
Individuals prone to CKD have been shown to have higher pH values compared to healthy individuals.
Mycosis stop
The pH of the skin of the feet in patients with foot mycoses was significantly higher compared to the control (healthy individuals).
acne
In vitro, P. acnes grows well at pH values between 6 and 6.5, and growth is markedly reduced at pH values less than 6. In the study, the number of inflammatory lesions increased in the alkaline soap group and decreased in the acidic, skin-cleansing group. .
Uremia
Skin surface pH has been shown to be significantly higher in dialysis patients compared to healthy individuals, despite the fact that dialysis patients had chronic acidemia. Skin infections, primarily fungal infections, are common in hemodialysis patients. High pH may predispose patients in this population to increased mycotic infection and suggest a possible role in uremic pruritus.
Practical use
It has been suggested that an altered pH is observed in the various dermatoses described above. Exposure to exogenous agents such as cleansers, creams, deodorants, and topical antibacterials affects skin pH and may further exacerbate the underlying disease in these patients. The choice of topical agents that maintain an acidic environment appears to be important in these patients.
Detergents
Surfactant-based detergents are known as “syndets” (liquid-based synthetic detergent). Syndets tend to be neutral or acidic (≤ pH = 7) compared to soaps, which tend to be alkaline (pH 10). Soaps based on detergents are known to have more high potential to irritate the skin than syndets. Washing hands with alkaline soap increases the pH on the palms by an average of 3 units and remains unchanged for 90 minutes after washing.
Acidification of the stratum corneum
Topical alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) are characteristic of drugs used in the treatment of keratinization disorders. AHAs such as lactic acid have been shown to increase ceramide production by 300% in vitro. In one study, twice daily administration of 4% l-lactic acid (pH 3.7-4.0) for 4 weeks resulted in a significant improvement in barrier function. In vivo, the total proportion of ceramides increased significantly. The ability of AHA to increase ceramide levels is beneficial in individuals with reduced barrier function, incl. with AD, in which ceramides are reduced. Studies have shown a beneficial effect of topical acid electrolyte (pH 2.0-2.7) in severe dermatitis and skin colonization by S. aureus in children and adults. The use of AHAs is also effective in irritant dermatitis.
For the treatment of skin diseases such as acne, AD, diaper rash and allergic contact dermatitis, the doctor has a number of topical and oral preparations in his arsenal. Using the right soaps and creams that do not compromise the acidic pH of the skin should be part of the treatment for these patients. It is recommended to choose the right detergents, which should have a pH between 4.5-6.5, i.e. close to the pH of normal skin. Syndets are less annoying and are preferred. Commonly used alkaline cleansers containing benzoyl peroxide, sulfur, or resorcinol antibacterial agents (such as triclocarban or triclosan), although effective in eradicating staphylococci and gram-negative bacteria, have a pH of 9-10 and can cause skin irritation, so their daily use Not recommended. Often, patients with diaper rash or acne, believing that their skin conditions are due to poor hygiene, overuse alkaline soaps, which often aggravates the situation. Proper education and appropriate recommendations for topical treatment are critical in these situations.
conclusions
In the last decade, the role of skin pH as a factor providing the barrier function of the stratum corneum has been investigated. There is probably still much to be learned in this area. We know that many skin diseases are characterized by damage to the barrier function with abnormal pH values. This should guide the physician to maintain or restore the acidic environment by choosing the optimal topical agent that can effectively maintain the acid mantle of the skin.
In the late 90s, Johnson & Johnson was the first to educate the masses of consumers that the normal pH of the skin is 5.5, and that we all simply have to buy their new eponymous series of the same name - for hair, face and body. What kind of pH is this, what does it depend on, why absolutely any product can lead to dry skin, and why we should not eat an excess of vegetables - we tell today in the article.
What you need to know about skin pH?
pH is the acid-base balance of the skin. Thanks to him, the skin retains elasticity, normal production of sebum and protective properties. There is a pH scale, which is measured in units. Its scale is from 0 to 14.
- Dry skin has a pH of 3 - 5.2
- normal - 5.2 -5.7
- fatty - 5.7 - 7.5.
Accordingly, the cosmetics that we apply also have a certain index.
For example, soap and any facial foam is an alkaline surfactant.. And usually it has an index from 6 to 11. Alkali washes away the lipid layer from the skin, and hence the acidity. The skin becomes drier, tighter, in advanced cases - flaky. There are neutral lower pH gels, such as CosRX Low pH Morning Gel, which are more gentle and less irritating to the skin. It is indicated for dry skin and normal skin. Oily skin tolerates regular cleansers quite well, this lowers its layer. However, if you overdo it and neglect moisturizing creams, then oily skin will lose its lipid layer and become dry.
Acid cosmetics act as a counterbalance to alkali - for example, peels. Or acid pads. Gradation of acid - from 0 to 4, respectively, the smaller the number, the stronger the action. That is why acid cosmetics are used in the treatment of acne and problematic oily skin. BHA is stronger and AHA is weaker, so it's better for dry skin to exfoliate and renew. But if you get carried away with acids, then again, dry and irritated skin can also be made from oily skin.
Even plain water has a high alkaline environment - 7 units, therefore, after washing, it is necessary to return the normal acid-base balance. The acid-base balance of the skin is like a scale, where you always need to maintain balance. After all, on the one hand there is always a bowl of "Acid", and on the other - "Alkali".
How to maintain a normal pH balance?
Always use toner
It restores the acidity of the skin after washing. He and it is he who is responsible for restoring the lipid layer and preparing the skin for the procedure of vitaminization (serum), moisturizing and protection (emulsion or cream). Skip the toner - the effect of care will be reduced significantly. You may not have essence or sheet masks, but the toner in the care must be.
Oily skin needs hydration too.
While oily skin is less receptive to strong facial cleansers and tolerates BHAs well, it still needs to be moisturized. Otherwise it will dry out eventually. At best, this will lead to wrinkles, peeling and general bruising, at worst, the skin will react with a surge in sebum production and become even more oily.
Dry skin needs acids
But acids like AHA, no more than once a week, and in combination with low-alkaline foams and high-quality nourishing creams. This will ensure the renewal of the epidermis without discomfort.
Sun protection needed
Skin without protection receives its portion of "burning" - invisible and imperceptible, but this is enough for the body to begin to bring water to the surface of the epidermis - thereby reducing its acidity and making it dry. So don't forget to apply sunblock.
Proper nutrition is not always obvious
It's great when a person monitors his health and eats right. However, any extremes are harmful. Vegetables and fruits are highly alkaline foods that need to be combined with the amino acids found in protein. These are meat, cottage cheese, dairy and sour-milk products, eggs. In a word, young vegans look good, they have almost no problems with their skin (because it does not get oily, it is cleaner), but it loses elasticity and firmness faster. Therefore, if you choose a diet without meat, then let it be a vegetarian diet with the ability to consume dairy products.
Do you follow all the rules for maintaining a healthy pH level? Or are you neglecting something? Tell us about your experience.
You have probably heard more than once that this or that remedy normalizes the acid-base balance. Its level is decisive for the health and beauty of our skin. Whether it is necessary to maintain it and how to do it with the help of cosmetics, Passion.ru experts say.
What is pH
“The secret secreted by the sebaceous and sweat glands of our skin, mixing with exfoliated epidermal cells, forms a protective film on the surface - a lipid layer. Its pH is considered to be an indicator of the acid-base balance of the skin, ”says Elena Monakhova, cosmetologist at TORI beauty salon.
In fact, pH balance is a number that reflects the condition and type of our skin. Normal healthy skin is characterized by a pH balance of 5.5 (borderline between acidic and alkaline environments), for dry skin - from 3 to 5.5, which indicates a dominant acidic environment. Numbers from 5.7 to 6 are typical for oily skin, in which an alkaline environment prevails.
A sharp shift in the pH balance in one direction or another is fraught with consequences for the health of the dermis. The prevalence of an alkaline environment in the skin and a pH balance above 5.7 (which is typical for oily skin) lead to the growth of bacteria that can provoke acne and dermatitis. Sebum begins to stand out more actively, pores expand, complexion becomes dull, skin tone worsens.
“When the balance decreases towards an acidic environment (at a level below 5.2), the skin becomes not just dry, but very dry. Such a dermis does not retain fluid well, suffers from dehydration, becomes very vulnerable, prone to peeling, microtraumas (kind of "cracks"). Bacteria enter the skin through these open “gates”, which can cause irritations and skin diseases, such as psoriasis,” explains Elena Monakhova.
The ideal environment for our skin is slightly acidic, which is exactly the pH level of 5.5. This "microclimate" is detrimental to bacteria and maintains a healthy balance.
Causes of changes in the acid-base balance of the skin
Skin pH: what it is and how to maintain it
The health of our skin depends on several factors that also affect the pH balance.
- Nutrition. Excessive consumption of sweet foods increases acidity, while spicy and canned foods shift the pH balance towards the alkaline side. If you eat these foods all the time and have skin problems, reconsider your diet.
- Environmental influence. Dedicated to lovers of sunbathing without SPF protection. The sun's rays oxidize the skin, make it dry, draw out moisture, destroy collagen, stimulating premature aging.
- Age. During menopause, the skin ages rapidly - it becomes alkaline. The pores expand, the dermis becomes more comedogenic, dull, loses elasticity.
- Care. Improper care affects the health and acid-base balance of the skin. For example, washing with hot and very warm water changes the pH values. Also, the illiterate use of products with active substances in the composition affects the balance of the skin. These are, for example, lines with acids (salicylic, fruit), recommended for oily, problem skin. “The daily fanatical use of such products destroys the protective lipid mantle and dries out the skin, turning the dermis into a combination (oily with dryness), sensitive, prone to inflammation and premature wrinkles,” warns Mitrofanova Elena, cosmetologist of the SPA Territory salon. Therefore, a competent complex for home use, especially for problem skin, should be selected by a doctor.
Many dermatological problems are associated with disorders and changes in the chemical composition of the skin. The most important indicator is the Ph of the skin, which must be taken into account when choosing medicines, as well as when purchasing effective means care. This indicator displays the level of acidity, which can vary from 0 to 14. A value below 7 represents an acidic environment, and above 7 - alkaline.
When choosing products for the skin, you should know about the optimal value of this indicator. Also, to ensure quality skin care, it is worth exploring ways that will help restore acidity.
Features and properties of the skin
The balance of alkali and acid of a certain environment is characterized by a certain PH. When determining this value for the surface of the skin, we mean the epidermis, on which the secretions of the sebaceous glands appear. The Ph parameters of human skin can vary from 3 to 7.
High acidity is fixed in the scalp - 4.5-5.5. On the soles and in the area of the palms, the PH level varies from 6.5. Normal skin has a value of 5.5. For oily skin, acidity is within 6.
To exclude adverse reactions, cosmetic preparations should be selected, the acidity level of which coincides with the individual indicator.
As we age, the skin becomes more alkaline. Since dry skin type is more alkaline than oily.
What should be the PH value?
The neutral indicator is 7.
Human skin can have the following indicators:
- Normal skin cover is 5.4-5.7.
- For an oily surface - 6.
- Dry skin - 3-5.
For the epidermis, an acidic environment is considered the norm. This is due to the excreted sweat, the amount of acetic and lactic acid, amino acids and the influence of the bacterial environment.
The acid-base balance can fluctuate under the influence of the following factors:
- Endogenous: the presence of diseases, sex and age categories, psychological condition.
- Exogenous include the influence of seasonal changes or time of day, the use of drugs and dietary habits.
Acidity in women is more important than in men. It differs in different parts of the face. For centuries, this indicator is closer to a neutral value. On the cheeks up to 5.7. In the forehead area, the acidity can be 4.1-5.6.
A shift from normal values may indicate that the acidity balance is changing under the influence of aggressive factors or the presence of pathological conditions.
In psoriasis, there is a preponderance to the acid side, and in the event of acne and rashes, to the alkaline side.
How to determine the acid-base balance?
If the acid-base balance changes, then this can be recognized by some signs.
If the acidity level of the face deviates towards greater acidity, then the following symptoms appear:
- severe dryness and manifestation of itching and tightness;
- the appearance of the peeling effect;
- reaction when applying cosmetics;
- the occurrence of redness.
Skin pH can be determined by changes in the skin after cleansing. Or by reaction to the use of decorative cosmetics.
In special rooms, to determine the acidity, special testers with an indicator mechanism are used.
If the pH level is 5.5, then the surface of the skin looks healthy and smooth. There are no pimples and blackheads, as well as irritation.
With a dry skin surface, the sebaceous glands function with little activity, so it has a dull tint. On such skin, cracks and wrinkles form early. Such skin has a low ph value of 3-5. He is sensitive to external stimuli.
Combination skin combines the features of normal and oily skin. Its ph value ranges from 3 to 6.
Oily skin can be identified by a certain sheen and visible pores. In this case, the ph level can reach 6.
Characteristics of cosmetics
In order not to harm the skin, should be used cosmetical tools with the same PH level. In practice, this does not always work out.
Standard creams have a PH level of 5 to 9. But a variety of peels and creams with a variety of acids have a ph of 5 to 1. Such preparations are recommended to be used only in beauty salons under the supervision of specialists. After the use of such compounds, in order to normalize the acid-base balance, weakly alkaline mixtures are used.
When using toilet soap, the acidity level of which is 9-11, magnesium and calcium salts remain on the skin of the face. This provokes peeling and the occurrence of allergic reactions on the skin.
For hair care, balms are used, the acid-base balance of which is 2-7.
The properties of the cosmetics used depend not only on the amount of ph, but also on the content of useful components, water characteristics and microbiological purity.
The use of products that are too alkaline or acidic can lead to an imbalance in the skin. When using alkaline products, restoration of the skin surface is required. For this, moisturizers are used. Various oils can also be used: olive, jojoba or argan oil.
Too acidic components weaken the skin barrier and open access to pollution and bacterial infections. You need to be careful when using peels.
Antioxidants are used to protect the skin from aggressive components. Vitamins A, C and E are of particular value.
How does the pH of the skin change?
The pH of the skin can change. In this case, there is a feeling of freshness or, conversely, a feeling of discomfort. A liquid with a high level of acidity can irritate the epidermis. With oily dermis, discomfort will not appear.
The acid-base balance of water varies from 6.6 to 8.4.
Also, the following factors affect the acidity of the face:
- oily and light balms and creams;
- exposure to ultraviolet;
- features of decorative cosmetics;
- cosmetic preparations.
Any soap provokes an alkaline reaction. This destroys the protective layer that retains moisture. For normal and oily dermis, such washing will go unnoticed, and the owners of dry epidermis will feel the tension of the skin.
How to normalize PH value?
To restore the normal balance of acidity, you need to know why the acidity changes.
The chemical properties of the surface of the face can be affected by certain factors:
- Diseases of some internal organs, diabetes and endocrine disorders.
- The use of diuretics and antibacterial drugs.
- Fungal diseases.
- stressful situations.
- Wrong nutrition.
- Abuse of products for curling and dyeing hair.
- Application of facial products without regard to acidity.
- Excessive exposure to sunlight.
- The use of vitamin complexes.
It is important to pay attention to the constituent components of detergents and various cosmetic preparations before buying.
Before purchasing a cosmetic product, you need to see how many useful components are in this composition and what is its acidity:
- Bar soap has a pH of 9 to 11.
- Shampoo should be selected according to the individual ph.
- Rinsing balms have a ph level of 2 to 7.
- Various hair dye products - 9-11.
To maintain the optimal ph level for washing, it is recommended to use not soap, but lotions, milk and tonics. Do not abuse peels and scrubs. It is also necessary to use different sun protection.
To prolong the youthfulness of the skin, do not abuse various diets. When protein is consumed in excess, more acid is produced in the body. Therefore, nutrition should be rational, in which there are also fats and proteins. In order not to gain weight, you need to combine proper nutrition with physical activity.
Read also: Review-rating of care products problematic skin faces
The acidity of the skin of the face is not a constant value. It may vary depending on the type of dermis, the state of health and the cosmetics used. Normal ph can be maintained by using the right cosmetics and performing daily skin care procedures.
Practicing cosmetologist. Higher medical education. The author of this site. The beauty of the skin excites me both as a specialist and as a woman.
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