Just a few decades ago, the razor we call a straight razor was the only tool for getting rid of facial hair. Progress does not stand still, and recently safe machines have been invented, in favor of which many have chosen. But even today straight razors have not become exhibits in museums. People continue to use them, in fact, in the last couple of years, straight razors have experienced another rise in popularity.
However, buying a straight razor is only half the battle, it is also important to properly monitor it - edit and sharpen it. Of course, the quality of a shave depends on the quality of the razor itself. Our online store offers only original straight razors from leading brands. But straightening a razor is the prerogative of its owner.
Straight razor straightening: what is it and why?
First of all, you need to remember once and for all that sharpening and editing straight razor— is not the same thing. In the first case, it is necessary to remove part of the iron sheet with a special stone for sharpening a dangerous razor. Editing a straight razor involves getting rid of the blade from small burrs, bumps and surface grinding, for this a special belt is used.
The smoother and sharper the surface of the razor, the better and safer your shave will be. Therefore, if you become the owner of such a truly masculine tool as a straight razor, you cannot do without editing. In our article we will tell you how to edit a straight razor correctly.
Straight Razor Editing: Choose the right sling
To maintain a straight razor in perfect condition, you need a small set of tools. An integral accessory for the owner of a straight razor is a special belt. In total, there are two options for the manufacture of such belts:
- equipped with a wooden handle;
- suspended.
Suspended ones are especially popular, since in this case you can independently adjust the degree of belt tension. It is important that the width of the belt is greater than the length of the razor blade. Even the equality of these values is undesirable. If you use a belt that is not wide enough, the blade will not be processed evenly.
A full straightening of a straight razor on a belt is impossible without the use of a special abrasive paste. Modern belt manufacturers produce products with applied paste. If you are a beginner, then you should pay attention to this offer. As you develop your skills, you will be able to apply the paste correctly on your own.
In our catalog you can buy straight razor straightening strap.
How to edit a straight razor on a belt correctly
Straightening a straight razor will require some skill from you. Push into the background all the skills and knowledge that you gained in the process of sharpening kitchen knives, they will only interfere with you here. Straight razor straightening is a unique process that requires full concentration and precise movements.
First of all, you need to remember that the first time you do not become a straight razor straightening master. It will take hours of practice before you can say with confidence that you can make a straight razor blade close to perfect. But each time you will get better and better.
The straight razor blade is made of high carbon steel. This is a very hard material. But the cutting edge itself is very thin, so the blade is sensitive to all your movements. If you start the movement incorrectly or change the angle during the editing process, this will lead to bumps and crevices. The whole process step by step is as follows.
1. Lay the blade flat on the belt.2. Pull the razor towards you and away from you with smooth movements with the ridge part forward.3. The pressure should not be too strong and static to avoid deformation of the cutting edge.
Yes, this is really all the manipulations for straightening a dangerous razor. It looks very simple, it remains only to try and evaluate.
Common Mistakes When Straightening a Straight Razor
People who don't know how to straighten a straight razor often make mistakes. After reading this section, you will be able to quickly achieve perfection in this difficult art.
Don't start over!
You should not pick up a straight razor and immediately try to edit and sharpen it using all kinds of abrasive materials that are in your home. The first step is to assess the condition of the cutting edge. This determines the amount of work required to bring the blade to its normal state. Evaluate the geometry of the tool. To do this, position the razor on an equal horizontal plane. Place the shaver lead and butt on the surface and evaluate their condition. If the razor does not have serious damage to the working parts, then you can start editing.
Unilateral approach
Straight razor straightening belt usually consists of a leather surface and a fabric part with a minimum section. Both sides are important in the dressing process. Even among experienced straight razor owners, there are people who only process the blade with the fabric or leather side of the belt. This is mistake. The ideal ratio is 15:50. To 15 wires on the fabric surface each time add 50 on the leather.
Slowly and surely
In no case do not make sudden and quick movements. Straight razors love smooth, confident movements. Otherwise, your dressing process may end up with a damaged blade, a broken belt, and cuts to your hands.
Pull on the belt
If the dressing belt is relaxed, then its surface will become wavy, which is highly undesirable. This results in edge bending. Then you have to re-sharpen the razor on coarser abrasives and again proceed to editing. Understanding that the belt is tight enough is easy. You will hear a distinctive sound as you edit.
Dirt
Beginners do not always monitor the condition of the belt. It must be dry and perfectly cleaned. Remember that the smallest particle of sand can affect the condition of the blade. The same rule applies to the razor itself. Check for cleanliness before editing.
Short movement on the blade
When you edit a straight razor, make sure that your hand does not make any action directed at the blade. This happens when you bring the razor to the extreme point of the belt and turn it over. To reverse, flip the razor over the ridge, not over the cutting edge. Otherwise, you may damage the blade and belt.
Don't lift your razor!
Guide the straight razor along the belt only flat, do not lift either the comb or the cutting edge. In the first case, the blade can be deformed, and in the second case, you will not get any benefit for the sharpness of the razor.
Neither more nor less
The number of passes through the belt is from 3 to 50. Less is too few to make the blade sharper. More - do not try in vain, the razor will not become sharper. With a large number of cycles, your hands get tired, you start to act inaccurately, which can lead to unpleasant consequences for the cutting edge.
Consequences of mistakes when straightening a straight razor
If you ignore the editing instructions and other people's mistakes, then this can turn into trouble for you. Remember that a dull straight razor is more likely to cut you than a sharp one. If you encounter such a problem, adjust the blade again until you achieve a positive result.
Improper handling of the belt can lead to the fact that you will ruin the tools: not only the belt, but also the razor. All movements must be accurate and precise. Engage in straightening a straight razor only at a time when you are not in a hurry and nothing distracts you.
After we figured out the question of how to straighten a straight razor, it is worth paying attention to the little things that will help extend the life of the blade and make it as sharp as possible.
1. Before or after? Many owners of such tools argue over how to straighten a straight razor is better: before shaving or after. Seems very comfortable to edit immediately after shaving. If necessary, you can use the ready-made tool. But still it is better to do the editing before shaving. The fact is that over time the blade loses its sharpness. Try both methods and see. 2. What is the best material for the belt? The modern market is ready to offer many belts for straightening straight razors, but which one will be optimal? Experts recommend purchasing horse leather belts. She is the smoothest and rules the best. Cow skin is also suitable for dressing, but works worse than horse skin. As for belts made of synthetic materials, they cannot be rejected. But to find the right one, you have to spend a lot of time and money. 3. Does the selected belt work? It is difficult for a beginner to determine whether a particular belt is suitable for straightening a straight razor or not. There are no tricks here, you have to turn to practice. Blunt your razor and test different belts with several strokes. If the razor gets sharper, then the belt works. Pay attention to the editing technique. Perhaps you are doing it wrong. 4. Before each use, wipe the belt with a dry palm. This is a kind of preparation for work. Thus, you remove invisible dust particles from it, which can affect the quality of the edit. Also, the belt is lubricated with your sebum and works better. 5. Do not store the belt in a twisted condition! This can lead to wrinkles that are very difficult to remove. In turn, wrinkles on the belt negatively affect the quality of the dressing. Belt storage the best choice becomes a closet. 6. If you are using a hanging strap, install a secure hook. If the belt breaks, then you can cut the belt, your hands or drop the blade (impacts are unacceptable, as they lead to chips and irretrievable loss of the tool).
To keep a straight razor sharp
Do not forget that between sharpening and editing a straight razor must be treated with care. This is a very sensitive instrument that can be damaged by a careless touch. Never drop your razor as this will cause chips. Keep it in a dry place out of the reach of children. Use the tool only for its intended purpose, no matter how attractive it may seem to you to check the sharpness of the cutting edge on something foreign. If you follow these rules between trims, your razor will stay sharp for a long time and last for decades.
You can buy a high-quality straight razor at a reasonable price in our online store britvaopasnaya.ru. We cooperate directly with manufacturers and give an official guarantee for all products.
Editing in progress.
Dressing does not sharpen the razor, but simply smoothes the edges of the metal at the tip of the blade. The mandrel usually consists of two parts - leather (belt) and fabric or linen. Chalk is applied to flax as a fine abrasive, and GOI paste is applied to the skin.
It is important to choose a belt of the correct width - it is desirable that it be slightly wider or equal to the length of the razor blade, in which case you can simply straighten the point evenly, since the entire blade will fit on the belt. Otherwise, you will have to make a slight shift when moving, because the blade should be evenly sharp.
Often the tissue area is ignored and only the skin is corrected. In general, the rule applies 15 to 50 - 15 times on the fabric and 50 times on the skin. The process here is the opposite of honing: holding the razor by the “shin” on one side, and holding it with two or three fingers, on the other hand, the blade is placed flat on the belt and stretches along it with the “comb” forward. Again, it's important to apply light pressure to the razor, ensuring contact across the entire surface - from the "comb" to the edge of the blade, otherwise you can bend the edge and ruin the razor.
The belt must be taut, otherwise it will become wavy, resulting in a bent edge. A sharp razor will make a distinctive sound when cutting on a belt.
Blade direction
At the end of the movement, when the razor reaches its extreme point, it must be turned over to continue moving - this is done in a movement similar to rolling a pencil. Don't push hard or do it quickly like a barber in a movie - more often than not, this results in less control over the razor and unnecessary risk to your fingers and belt.
Between sharpenings, you just need to touch up the blade on the belt after several shaves. The paste should be selected according to the razor and the belt - diamond pastes, chromium oxide pastes, hematites.
This completes the razor sharpening process. It may not be such a bad idea to start with an already sharpened razor, because if you get carried away with honing and straightening, you may not get to the most exciting activity - shaving.
In addition to sharpening, in the care of the razor, it is necessary to deal with corrosion. Leaving the razor for a long time, it is worth lubricating it with light oils. And every time after shaving - wash with hot water and wipe dry, store in a dry place inaccessible to children.
After a long period of stagnation, there has been a trend towards an increase in the number of users of the classic straight razor, colloquially called "fear". The pages of glossy magazines and video clips on TV screens are full of advertisements for mass-produced T-shaped safety machines and electric shavers, however, “safety razors” have taken root in hairdressing practice and are gradually regaining the leading place in domestic use that was lost half a century ago. It has become fashionable, stylish and brutal to shave them, although it is not possible to immediately acquire the skills of non-traumatic use. It is even more difficult to learn how to sharpen a dull point on your own, since sharpening technology requires a competent approach to its execution.
How is shaving "fear"Stages of sharpening "fears"
Straight razor sharpening at home is the machining of the cutting edge of the blade plate. It is customary to sharpen the blade in three technological stages, each of which has its own intended purpose:
Stage 1. Rough sharpening, the purpose of which is to restore or correct the geometry of the leads that form the cutting edge of the blade (sting). Geometry violations are:
- chips and jams;
- edge bends to the side;
- large radius in the cutting edge area.
The sharpening angle, made at the factory during the manufacture of the "guard", does not change.
Blade machining on a grinder Stage 2. Finishing of the cutting edge and the blade itself, in its purpose, is similar to the honing operation in metalworking. The goal of stage 2 is to obtain exact dimensions point and clean surface of the blade plate. In step 2, all risks from using the abrasive in step 1 should be removed.
Stage 3. Cutting edge dressing to form an ultra-fine cutting edge for a close shave.
Before recklessly starting to sharpen a straight razor at home, it is necessary to consider defective changes in its geometry. This will determine which abrasives will be sharpened - coarse or fine. Correction of the geometry is a mandatory operation, since it will not be possible to achieve the required sharpening parameters on distorted cutting edges.
Sharpening methods
There are three ways to sharpen a razor, which differ in the type of materials used:
- Sharpening with abrasive stones.
- The use of sandpaper (skins).
- The use of flexible belts.
If you sharpen the razor correctly in compliance with the requirements for abrasive grit at each stage, then it is enough to sharpen the product once, then only edit. Numerous videos on social media pages describe step by step techniques when moving a razor on abrasive bars or on a belt.
It should be remembered that editing is divided into two subtypes:
- editing on GOI-type pastes (once every 4 months);
- dressing on the belt - regularly before each shave.
A blade is considered sharp and ready for shaving if it can cut through hair or tissue paper.
Video: how to sharpen a razor
Why does a razor get dull?
In the process of shaving, the blade of the tool has an enormous specific load. The cutting edge of a razor sharpened according to all the rules has an unusually small thickness - 0.12 microns, surpassing any cutting tools in sharpness. (A medical scalpel is significantly inferior to the "fear" in sharpness - it has an edge of 20 microns). In the process of cutting the bristles on the cutting edge of the razor point, there is a huge pressure that destroys the hair in the contact zone. At the same time, both side faces, like a wedge driven into a tree, separate the hair until it is completely separated from the root in the skin. Thus, shaving is accompanied by a complex mechanical action of three forces on the edge of the tip:
- wedge penetration efforts;
- compression forces from the cutting edge of the tip;
- friction force with hair.
On the face of an average man, there are approximately 100 bristle hairs / sq. cm. If we take the average bristle thickness of 0.1 mm, then shaving in two passes of the bristle from the entire face is comparable to cutting a hard rod of the strongest horny substance with a diameter of 2 cm.
A good sharpening allows the razor to cope with this, but the edge is slightly dulled. The cutting force immediately increases, which deflects the hairs. With oblique cutting of inclined hairs, the cut area increases, respectively, the load on the tip increases.
The beginning slight blunting proceeds with increasing acceleration until the tip becomes completely blunt. The super-thin point is not resistant to bending loads, therefore, when blunted, it is covered with scratches and microscopic chips that can eventually turn into notches if it is not correctly sharpened in a timely manner.
The picture below shows a dull razor before sharpening. On its tip and blade, lines show zones of progressive bluntness and scratches. It is easy to notice violations of the form on the oval of the canvas.
This is what a blunted “fear” looks like. straight razor design
In order to properly sharpen a dangerous razor on your own, you need to have an idea about the design and know the names of its elements. Experts call such products bladed razors because they have open blades. This category of razors came to be called "dangerous" after the invention of the T-shaped razor in the early 20th century, which was called the "safety razor" in advertising.
The figure below shows a typical straight razor with an indication of its main elements. Its design is not so simple as it might seem at first. It has many zones and details.
Typical design of "fear". A blade razor consists of a handle (a handle, sometimes called a handle for the sake of old models) and a steel working blade (blade). The handle is assembled from two halves, fastened with two or three rivets. The blade rotates in the plane of the handle around the axis of the connecting rivet. For safe storage, the blade can be hidden in the handle like in a sheath.
On the back of the blade blade and on the bottom of the tail, which is also called erl, there is a corrugation in the form of a transverse notch. In this way, unwanted sliding of fingers on metal is prevented in order to prevent accidental cuts.
The blade blade is given a concave section, which allows sharpening the cutting edge with maximum sharpness. The backrest is needed as a basis for holding the most optimal cutting angle (about 12 degrees).
It should be borne in mind that the sharpness of the cutting edge is ensured if the steel plate of the blade is sharpened to the minimum possible thickness. In this case, the concave zone becomes a stress concentrator and will crumble at the slightest load. Attempts to cut with “fear” wood products or softer materials will simply ruin the edge of the edge, called a sting for its sharpness.
A rarity razor from the 19th century. "Opaska" shaves cleaner than machine tools and electric shavers. For owners of a straight razor, prepare it for
The straight razor is the only shaving tool for men that has been used since the beginning and is still used today. If machines, razors and other methods of depilation provoke severe skin irritation, then after using a dangerous razor the risks of such consequences are almost zero. Therefore, this tool is popular among experienced barbers and hairdressers, as well as among men themselves.
A straight razor requires certain rules and regulations for maintenance, as well as regular sharpening, since razor blades must be as sharp as possible. Few men know how to sharpen a razor and with what tools to do it. Therefore, before you start using such a shaving tool, it is advisable to familiarize yourself with the rules for sharpening, straightening and caring for a straight razor.
Editing and sharpening a straight razor are two different processes, since in the case of sharpening, a layer of metal on the blades is removed, and when editing, the zone is polished from the presence of irregularities on the metal and burrs of the tip. A straight razor is kept in the right condition, provided that a sharpening belt, stones, sandpaper or special skins are used. About how to sharpen a straight razor, a man can learn theoretically or visually on video reviews.
Belt
For sharpening razors, I use two types of belts - hanging belts or with wooden handles. But the first option is more in demand, as it allows you to independently adjust the stretch. You need to select a belt such that its width completely covers the blade, and leave some more margin. With wooden handles, straps are popular with beginners as they are already fixed and have one level of tension.
For reference! If a stone was used to sharpen straight razor blades, then a straight razor belt must be used with a special protective paste. On sale there are such types of belts that are already equipped with paste.
With the help of a belt, a man can learn how to straighten a straight razor. Such belts, as a rule, have leather on one side, and fine-grained fabric on the other. Dressing with a belt is carried out under precise control of the tension and angle of the functional surface.
Use the straight razor straightening strap as follows:
- First you need to put the razor blade with the wide side on the surface;
- Along the ridge side, the blade should be forward;
- It is forbidden to press on the blade, as this can lead to bending of the edge;
- When editing reaches the extreme point, it is necessary to do the same manipulations as in the second paragraph of the instructions, but in the opposite direction.
- All movements must be sedate, so as not to injure yourself with the blade and not damage the integrity of the leather of the belt.
Expert opinion
Alexey Strijnikov
Barber, expert in men's haircuts
Usually, 50 leather wires are made to straighten a dangerous razor, as well as 15 fabric wires. A specialist should apply the paste to protect the belt; for beginners, it is advisable to buy ready-made belts with the presence of such a paste.
Stone
Only specialists know exactly how to sharpen razor blades with a stone. In addition, most dangerous facial hair removers are sharpened during production. If the blades become dull, the use of a belt is usually implied. But if the razor blade has been damaged and damaged during use, a sharpening stone may still come in handy.
Have you sharpened a straight razor before?
YesNo
Many companies sell stones, they differ in the materials of manufacture and the principle of operation. The most popular today are synthetic stones with an affordable price and excellent workmanship. When using a stone, it is important to remember that razor blades are very sensitive to any rough mechanical stress, the wrong vector of movement and the angle of sharpening with a stone can cause scratches, crevices and bumps.
Restoring the sharpness and smooth surface of the blades with a stone is performed as follows:
- First, the stone must be moistened with water.
- Hold the razor with your thumb and forefinger.
- Fingers need to simultaneously clamp the comb and the end of the blade.
- For sharpening, it is necessary to hold the razor along the stone itself.
- At the end of the stone, the razor must be turned over, pressed according to the second paragraph of the instruction with the other side and repeat the movements, according to the fourth paragraph.
Turning the straight razor blade while sharpening with a stone is necessary only through the comb, so as not to damage it.
The sharpening angle during work must be stable and constant so as not to damage the integrity of the metal. If a water stone is used, the instructions for sharpening a razor suggest the following rules:
- pressing force should be small;
- the entire plane of the razor should be in contact with the surface of the stone;
- moving the razor blade along the stone, the degree of pressure should be stable;
- the comb of the blade is wrapped with electrical tape so as not to damage it with a stone.
Few people succeed in sharpening a razor with a stone the first time, it takes time to bring efforts to perfection. A good sharpening stone should hold its shape, not release a large amount of slurry, have a uniform structure with fine grains and no lumps. The size of the stone before self-sharpening should ideally be 50x150.
Other materials
Straight razor blades can be straightened and sharpened with other tools, such as sandpaper or sandpaper. These are the most popular materials that are used by beginners in such cases. The method of using sandpaper for sharpening is similar to the principle of using a belt, since it is rather problematic to select the appropriate paper grain. The arsenal for using such devices is simple - water, sandpaper or sandpaper, a flat surface.
Hand over for sharpening or sharpen yourself: all the pros and cons
Only an experienced specialist knows for sure how to sharpen a straight razor and how to do it correctly so that the blades are sharp and retain their original appearance. If a man does not have the skills to work with grinding devices, it is better to seek help from a specialist. Most often, such a solution is resorted to if editing the belt does not give its results.
Advice! Today, modern specialists in sharpening and straightening a straight razor perform various hardware procedures. The most effective and safest way is to sharpen a razor with a laser sharpening.
Not every man knows how to sharpen and straighten a dangerous razor blade with a stone. Therefore, in the absence of skills and knowledge on how to restore the former appearance and sharpness of the blade with a stone, it is better to contact a specialist. With independent efforts, it is much easier to adjust the sharpness of the razor with a belt, as well as other materials, such as sandpaper. Such work is less risky in terms of the degree of trauma for the razor.
How to store a straight razor?
Only on condition proper care a man will be able to protect his straight razor from rust, dulling the blade and reducing its degree of functionality. A straight razor is a very delicate item that needs special care. After performing manipulations with the razor, it must be rinsed under running water, blotted with a cloth or paper towel to remove residual moisture.
Keep the razor in a ventilated and dry area so that the metal rests. If a straight razor will be used very infrequently, paraffin oil should be applied to its blade to protect it from rust. For daily shaving with such a tool, experts advise having several sets so as not to wear out one razor with constant manipulation.
Why is razor care so important?
As mentioned earlier, a straight razor is a vulnerable and sensitive device that can suffer from any mechanical impact. The razor therefore needs special care and careful handling in order to keep the blades sharp and efficient for as long as possible. A good straight razor will last a man for decades, during which the razor will need to be lubricated, sharpened and corrected.
Experts note that the metal of a straight razor needs rest. Therefore, it is not recommended to use a razor every day. You need to store the metal in a place with a low percentage of humidity, the bathroom is absolutely not suitable for this. Humid air and frequent contact with water lead to oxidation of the metal and the appearance of rust. It is not recommended to drop the razor, as this violates the integrity of the blade.
Conclusion
Not every man can sharpen a straight razor with his own hands, so a valuable shaving tool is often handed over to craftsmen for sharpening and straightening. They know for sure which belt and stone to restore the sharpness of the blade, which side of the belt to straighten the razor, and also how to align and adjust appearance razors. Even the average man can get used to such tasks if he strictly follows the instructions.
The glorious past and the elite present of straight razor
Many of our readers ask us - how can you sharpen a straight razor, how difficult is it, and how does sharpening this truly rare tool these days differ from sharpening a knife? In this article, we decided to answer all these questions.
So, before talking about the basic technological methods for sharpening a razor, a few words about what a razor itself is and what it is eaten with.
Until recently, a straight razor was the only tool of its kind with which, until the middle of the 20th century, a man could get rid of facial hair. With the active development of the cosmetology industry and the ubiquity of safety razors, straight razors are gradually leaving the market, losing their former positions. The art of shaving with such a complex tool, along with the art of sharpening it, is gradually becoming the property of history and disappearing from everyday life. This was due, perhaps, to the acceleration of the pace of society - when shaving and periodic sharpening of the razor modern man there wasn't enough time.
Since then, the use, and even more so - the sharpening of a straight razor - has become the lot of the elite, a kind of hobby and an element of a leisurely, stylish and measured lifestyle. And, of course, experts who could tell and sharpen a dangerous razor have greatly diminished.
Anatomy of sharpening: skins, belts and stones
So, sharpening a dangerous razor is not at all the same as sharpening a regular knife - primarily due to the specifics and purpose of this thin tool. The cross section of the razor blade is characterized by rather sharp concave slopes, which expand towards the cutting edge to converge with the leads into the thinnest blade. This design allows you to make the blade as sharp as possible, and at the same time most effectively shave hair without damaging the skin. Moreover, if the knife is allowed to be sharpened a little rough, and the sharpener sometimes stops on a stone with a grain size of 1000 # - so the cut of the knife turns out to be quite aggressive, with a good and high-quality cut - then such sharpening is unacceptable for a straight razor - after all, the main thing here, despite the name of the tool is human security.
To begin with, sharpening a straight razor can be done in three ways: sharpening on stones, sharpening on sandpaper, and sharpening or dressing on a belt with various abrasives. Each of these methods has its pros and cons. Sharpening on the skin is the easiest and cheapest way. All you need is sandpaper of varying grits, water, a solid base and glass to create a completely flat surface. However, in stores today it is difficult to find a skin, the grain size of which would be less than 2000 - 2,500 thousand. And for a dangerous razor, this graininess is quite small. Therefore, having sharpened the razor on the skin, it will no longer be necessary to bring it to the belt.
Theoretically, the razor can be straightened on any leather belt with a sufficiently velvety finish with the usual GOI paste applied to it. However, it is certainly better to use specially sold belts for straightening razors. Working with the belt is simple and does not require special skills, allowing you to quickly finish the razor. However, professionals say that honing on a belt is much less effective than sharpening on stones. The blade will be less sharp and the cutting edge less durable. As a result, a person who frequently sharpens his razor on a belt will have to do this regularly - once every 2-5 days, until the razor requires a new sharpening on the skins.
The most reliable, correct and durable method of sharpening a straight razor is still sharpening on stones. It is in this way that the entire tool is usually sharpened in grinding workshops, of which there are very, very few left throughout Russia. However, this method is at the same time the most difficult - as it requires a large number practices. For someone who is just starting to learn how to sharpen a dangerous razor, the masters warn: most likely your first experiments will be unsuccessful. And only after a while you will get a good enough hand.
In addition to the fact that the method of sharpening on stones is the most effective and most difficult, it is also the most expensive, since high-quality stones are quite expensive today, and for a full sharpening cycle, such as to make a sharp razor enough for a comfortable shave, you will need the whole range of stones ranging from 300#-400# to 10000#-12000#. However, it is precisely this that allows you to achieve the maximum possible from the razor.
Time to collect stones: the basics of sharpening on stones
So, before sharpening a razor, you need to make sure that the blade is clean and free of rust. If there is rust, it must be removed before sharpening.
Before you start sharpening your razor, you should understand one very important rule. The blade is always placed flat on the stone, so that both the back and the cutting edge always touch the abrasive. This is incredibly important for the reason that in cross section a dangerous razor blade is a blade with concave descents - a kind of reverse lens - where the protruding parts are precisely the cutting edge and back of the razor. The position of the blade flat on the stone guarantees a constant sharpening angle along the entire length of the cutting edge and the longest use of the razor. If, during sharpening, you give the blade an additional slope - whether with your hands or with a piece of electrical tape glued to the back - this can permanently ruin the razor, or at least bring it to a state where it can take a very, very long time to correct it: due to an unnecessary tilt, the original angle will be changed, becoming blunter (and therefore less sharp), and in the end may lead to damage to the instrument.
Let's repeat once again: when sharpening a razor blade, the cutting edge is ground parallel to the back - that is, the blade lies flat on the stone. A small angle, at your own peril and risk, can be set when sharpening a straight razor only by high-class professionals who seek to preserve patterns or inscriptions on the backs of especially expensive straight razor models.
In addition, there is another important point. Razor sharpening should be uniform along the entire length of the cutting edge. Therefore, professionals advise either to buy stones that correspond in width to the length of the blade, or sharpen them crosswise. That is, during sharpening, lead the razor not directly over the stone, but somewhat obliquely, so that the entire blade is used in one stroke.
Let's get started!
After we have clarified to ourselves these simple, but very important points- start sharpening the razor.
Sharpening a razor on stones can be divided into three stages.
The first is working with coarse-grained stones to reduce the cutting edge, remove an excess layer of steel, rough sharpening
The second is a gradual transition to medium and fine-grained stones, softer sharpening
The third stage is finishing, grinding on the finest stones, as well as a razor sharpness test.
At the first stage, when working with coarse-grained stones, it is permissible to drive the blade in both directions, that is, both forward with the tip and backward - this will speed up the process of initial rough sharpening. However, it should be borne in mind that when changing the abrasive to a new one, it will be incredibly important to remove the burrs that inevitably form during such sharpening. Therefore, the last 20-40 strokes on each rough stone should only be blade forward. In the future, on medium and small stones, only this technique will be possible: cutting flat on the stone with the blade forward, with crosswise movements.
It should also be said about the pressure exerted on the razor blade during sharpening. When sharpening on a rough stone, it should be quite noticeable. However, the less rough stone you use (provided good quality abrasive), the less effort should be applied. In the end, your efforts should come down to simply letting the blade rest on the stone under its own weight - and sometimes lifting it slightly so that it barely touches the plane of the stone.
By the way, about the plane: You need to be very careful to ensure that the stone on which you sharpen your razor is as even as possible. So that there are no bumps, depressions, or abrasive chips on it. For the same reason, it is necessary to thoroughly rinse the razor blade before changing the stone, and not soak the stones in the same container - getting larger grains of abrasive on a finer-grained stone can lead to very ugly scratches on the blade and ruin the entire sharpening.
In addition, it is also important to remember that the razor does not like sharp grain jumps. That is, when changing a stone from a coarser-grained one to a fine-grained one, it is worth observing such an interval so that the grid values on the next stone do not exceed the value of the previous one twice. The smaller the transitions between the stones, the better the result you will achieve.
Quality Control: Razor Sharpness Test Methods
Upon completion of the sharpening process, it is necessary to check how well the blade is sharpened. Of course, visually, without conducting tests, it is impossible to determine this. Therefore, cutting hair is considered one of the safest and most revealing checks. The test process is as follows: The razor blade is fixed on the table with the cutting edge up. Then a hair is taken (any, from the head or from the body), and with a slow, gentle movement is brought to the RK. At the same time, the hair is kept even, no unnecessary sawing movements can be carried out. The hair should only touch the blade. If the hair after that broke up into two parts, we can assume that the sharpening is completed, and you have reached sufficient sharpness.
There is another test that can be used to check the sharpness of a razor - wiring along the cutting edge with a pad thumb. However, for inexperienced sharpeners, this experience is always quite traumatic and rarely goes away without cuts. Therefore, we recommend that you beware of checking the sharpness of the razor in this way, at least at first.
Do you have any questions? Ask them in the comments to the article and we will be happy to answer them!