Vologda lace: features and technique of weaving, the history of the creation of pertussis lace. Vologda lace: master class, history, schemes and features Message about folk craft Vologda lace

In contact with

The richness and variety of patterns, the purity of lines, the measured rhythms of ornaments, the high craftsmanship - such is his artistic originality.

Vologda lace has a special original beauty. The development of the ornamental art of lace was greatly influenced by woodcarving patterns, weaving ornaments, and ancient embroideries. Especially openwork embroidery "Vologda glass" with a variety of "snowflakes" and "spiders" on through backgrounds.

Guide to Russian Crafts, CC BY-SA 3.0

This embroidery was mainly used in the Vologda district, and it was in this territory that the craft developed especially intensively. The ornament of Vologda lace is characterized by softly curved smooth lines of the pattern, it is always graphically clear, rhythmic and can consist of geometrized figures or generalized plant forms.

Manitou, GNU 1.2

To make Vologda lace, you need: a pillow-roller, bobbins, juniper or birch pins, a pattern. A typical material for Vologda lace is linen, bleached or rough.

In the 17th century, lacemakers mastered the technique of weaving lace using silver and gold threads made from drawn wire or from a silk thread-core entwined with a metal thread.

A bit of history

Manitou, GNU 1.2

According to official studies (S. A. Davydova), it was established that during the time of serfdom, in all significant landowner estates of the province, there were lace "factories" that supplied lace products to St. Petersburg and Moscow.

I. Martynov, N. Cherkasov, CC BY-SA 3.0

And one of these factories was founded by the landowner Zasetskaya three versts from Vologda in the village of Kovyrino no later than the 20s of the 19th century. There, the serfs wove the finest lace for trimming dresses and underwear, imitating Western European patterns.

Over time, lace weaving moved from the landowner's workshops to the folk environment and became one of the types of folk art that reflected the needs and tastes of the broad circles of the local population.

In 1893, 4,000 craftswomen were engaged in lacemaking in the Vologda province, and 40,000 in 1912. In 1928, a vocational school of lacemakers was established in Vologda. In 1930, the Vologda Lace Union was created. In 1935 - an art laboratory at the Vologda Lace Union.

Semenov.m7, CC BY-SA 3.0

In the 30s of the 20th century, images appeared in lace that reflected Soviet reality. In 1960, the Vologda lace association "Snezhinka" was organized.

On November 3, 2010 in Vologda, in the building of the former State Bank on Kremlin Square, 12, the Lace Museum was opened. The total area of the museum is 1400 m², and the exposition area is 600 m². The main exposition presents more than 500 items that tell about the foundation and development of this traditional artistic craft of the Vologda region.

Photo gallery

Helpful information

Vologda lace

Finishing for dresses and underwear

The beginning of the trade dates back to 1820, when near Vologda, on the estates of landowners, serfs began to weave trimmings for dresses and linen, imitating Western European ones.

Until the 40s. of the last century, measured lace for finishing linen prevailed, later piece products became the main ones - paths, napkins, elegant removable details women's clothing- collars, frills, capes, scarves, ties and gloves.

Dresses, tablecloths, napkins and furniture were also decorated with lace and still decorate.

Pattern elements

All the main images in the Vologda coupling lace are made with a dense, continuous, uniform in width, smoothly wriggling linen braid, “vilyushka”.

They stand out clearly against the background of patterned gratings, decorated with star and rosette patterns.

Floral patterns are dominated by motifs of flexible branches with loop-shaped leaves, shamrocks, round or elongated petal and palmate flowers, fan-shaped motifs, and horseshoe-shaped figures.

Arrangement of patterns

Compositions are often built from mirror-symmetrical motifs that give lace austerity and special static. A distinctive feature of Vologda lace is a wide variety of background grids.

Ornament

A distinctive feature of the traditional Vologda paired lace is a clear division of the “structure” of lace into a pattern and a background.

As a result, the large and smooth forms of the ornament are very expressively distinguished by a continuous line, even in width along the entire length of the pattern.

In the early Vologda lace, stylized images of birds, the tree of life and other ancient motifs, characteristic of more ancient embroidery, varied as the leading ornament.

Today, Vologda lace is distinguished by a variety of ornaments, monumentality of forms and the predominance of floral motifs.

Vologda Museum-Reserve

You can get acquainted with copies of Vologda lace in the Vologda Museum-Reserve, the Vologda Museum of Lace, the All-Russian Museum of Decorative, Applied and Folk Art, as well as in the museum of the Snezhinka lace company.

Awards

Vologda lace has repeatedly received the highest awards at exhibitions: a gold medal at the International Exhibition of Modern Decorative and Industrial Arts in Paris in 1925, the Grand Prix in Paris in 1937, a gold medal in Brussels in 1958. At the same time, at an exhibition in Brussels, was awarded the highest award Grand Prix Vologda lace curtain "Russian motives".

Sazonova Adele, student of the 5th "R" class, GBOU secondary school No. 1354, Moscow

Project theme: Vologda lace

Project goals:

Study the history of this type of fishery.

Learn the features of the manufacture of Vologda lace.

Project objectives:

Studying history, draw the attention of the audience to folk crafts

Tell about the origin and use of Vologda lace.

Lace as an integral part of decoration decoration for dresses and underwear.

Where is Vologda lace used now?

Working methods: search, selection and analysis of information.

Download:

Preview:

Introduction

Chapter 1. Vologda lace

Conclusion.

Bibliography

Chapter 1. Vologda lace

1.1. Vologda lace as a type of Russian lace.

Vologda lace is a type of Russian lace woven on bobbins (wooden sticks). Wealth and variety of patterns, purity of lines, dimensional rhythms of ornaments, high skill - such is his artistic originality. Vologda lace has a special original beauty. The development of the ornamental art of lace was greatly influenced by wood carving patterns, weaving ornaments, ancient embroideries, especially the “Vologda glass” openwork embroidery with various “snowflakes” and “spiders” on transparent backgrounds. This embroidery was mainly used in the Vologda district, and it was in this territory that the craft developed especially intensively. The ornament of Vologda lace is characterized by softly curved smooth lines of the pattern, it is always graphically clear, rhythmic and can consist of geometrized figures or generalized plant forms. Plant patterns are dominated by motifs of flexible branches with loop-shaped leaves, shamrocks, round or elongated petal and palmate flowers, fan-shaped motifs, horseshoe-shaped figures, etc.

Patterns on products are usually arranged around the circumference with wide borders with a free or ornamented middle, go along the perimeter of the product, gather into strips of different widths, and can be distributed throughout the openwork background. Compositions are often built from mirror-symmetrical motifs that give lace austerity and special static. A distinctive feature of Vologda lace is a wide variety of background grids. Poems and songs have been written about Vologda lace, films have been made, and colorful booklets have been published. Vologda lace is known all over the world, for a long time it personified the glory of Russian lace.

The word "lace" comes from "to surround", to decorate the edges of clothes and other items made of fabrics with an elegant finish. Lace weaving has been known in Rus' for a long time. It was practiced by women of all classes. The dress of kings, princes and boyars was decorated with lace made of gold, silver and silk threads; lace made from linen yarn was used in folk clothes, and from the end of the 19th century - from cotton threads.

The artistic features of Vologda lace were already formed in the 17th-18th centuries. Until the 19th century, lace-making had the character of a domestic art craft. In the 20s of the 19th century, a lace factory was founded in the vicinity of Vologda, where dozens of serf lace-makers worked. In the middle of the 19th century, lace-making on the Vologda land turned into a craft, which was practiced by thousands of craftswomen in different counties. Especially this craft was developed on the territory of the Vologda, Kadnikovsky and Gryazovets districts. Each of them has developed local features of patterns and weaving techniques, its own range of lace products, but only a fine connoisseur of this art can distinguish them. Lace craft in the Vologda province flourished in the second half of the 19th century. If in 1893 four thousand craftswomen were engaged in weaving, then in 1912 there were almost forty thousand of them. The fame of Vologda lace has crossed the borders of the country. Fashion for him swept many countries of Europe.

A distinctive feature of the traditional Vologda paired lace is a clear division of the “structure” of lace into a pattern and a background. As a result, the large and smooth forms of the ornament are very expressively distinguished by a continuous line, even in width along the entire length of the pattern. In the early Vologda lace, stylized images of birds, the tree of life and other ancient motifs, characteristic of more ancient embroidery, varied as the leading ornament. Today, Vologda lace is distinguished by a variety of ornaments, monumentality of forms and the predominance of floral motifs.

The Vologda fishery has received wide recognition both in Russia and abroad. The talent and skill of Vologda artists and lacemakers have been repeatedly noted at many international and domestic exhibitions. In 1937, at the international exhibition in Paris, the Vologda Lace Union for the novelty and artistic performance of lace products was awarded the highest award - the Grand Prix, at the Brussels Exhibition in 1958, Vologda lace was awarded a gold medal. And in 1968, the leading artists of the production association "Snezhinka" were awarded the State Prize of the RSFSR named after I.E. Repin. A lot of imagination, creative work, high skill were put into their work by the oldest lace maker K.V. Isakov, famous masters his business E.Ya. Khumala, V.V. Sibirtseva, Honored Artists of the RSFSR V.D. Veselov and V.N. Elfina. Many of their works are kept in the largest museums of the country.

Features common to all Vologda lace in the work of each master acquire an individual color. So, the works of K.V. Isakova develop a chamber lyrical direction. Tenderness and warmth of images distinguish her panel "Deers", created in 1968. It depicts firs and galloping deer. Dimensional repetitions of the figures, their arrangement in rows, a clear pattern with a relief contour against the background of a light through lattice, like flying snowflakes and the white color of linen threads - all this gives rise to the image of a winter forest immersed in silence.

The work of V.D. Veselova. A hereditary lace maker, she perfectly knows all the secrets of lace making, which allows her to create both small household items and decorative panels at an equally high artistic level. One of Veselova's unique works is the Ladya tablecloth. It combines all the best features of the artist's work: the poetry of images, the nobility of the drawing, the richness of developments in details, the refinement of the technical execution of lace, its indispensable conditionality by the content and nature of the ornament.

The Vologda association got its name in 1964 after the tablecloth "Snowflake" of another outstanding lace maker - V.N. Elfina. Her work gravitates towards monumental compositions, large forms of ornamentation. In 1978, Elfina executed the Singing Tree panel. It symbolizes spring and the flowering of nature associated with its arrival, the awakening of life, the many-voiced singing of birds. The magnificent Tree of Life is dotted with flowers and birds sitting on it. The dense pattern is opposed to a light openwork background. The combination of harsh and white threads gives the panel a silvery hue.

Vologda lace today is primarily the Snezhinka lace company, where professional lace makers and experienced artists work; this is a vocational school where future lacemakers are trained, as well as institutions additional education, where young Vologda residents get acquainted with the history of lace making and learn the basics of this skill. Vologda lace firm "Snezhinka" is a permanent participant of international and Russian exhibitions. The firm cooperates with domestic and foreign partners. The most important side of the creativity of craftsmen is the creation of works for museums and exhibitions. These are mainly panels, curtains, tablecloths. Today, it can be rightly asserted that Vologda lace is worthy of being included in the world treasury of lace making.

1.2. The development of lace craft in the Vologda region.

In the North, lace appeared, probably not earlier than the second half of the 16th century, from the time of the discovery of the "northern sea route", when Vologda became large shopping mall, and foreign ships from Europe come to the city with goods, including lace. In the 17th century, foreign lace entered the country in in large numbers. It becomes a favorite decoration of clothes and household items, a symbol of wealth, nobility and wealth. In the museum collection of the Vologda Museum, the earliest surviving laces also date back to the 17th century; they are made of gold and silver threads.

In the 17th century, the production of metal lace was organized in Rus', first in the Armory, and later they began to weave gold lace in women's monasteries, especially in those where the art of facial sewing was developed. There is evidence that lace was also made in large craft jewelry centers, such as Solvychegodsk.

Metallic lace was woven from spun and twisted gold and silver threads. Silk or linen threads, on which metal threads were tightly wound, gave strength and elasticity to such lace. The price of lace was determined by weight (spools), and not by the complexity and quality of work. Metal lace (golden) was sewn onto clothes made of dense expensive fabrics, they were used to decorate church items and the clothes of clergy. Common patterns of metal lace were geometrized rosettes - “burrs”, “combs” - motifs in the form of fans, wavy lines - “rivers”, squares set at an angle (“money”), rectangular corners inscribed in each other (popularly this pattern is called "boat") and tulip-shaped floral motifs. In the 18th century, they began to introduce colored beat into metal lace, which was an exclusively Russian technique.

At the end of the 18th century, thread lace, which comes from Western European countries, was in demand in the country. Flemish, Brussels, Dutch lace, French "raspberry", "chantal", "brabant", named after the names of the provinces where the centers of lace-making were formed, were popular. The fashion for lace contributed to the emergence of lace workshops in the country at noble and landowner estates. At the beginning of the 19th century, the first lace factories were also organized in Vologda. The lace factory V.A. Zasetskaya, formed in 1820 in the village of Kovyrino near Vologda. Patterns of foreign origin, fashionable at that time, most often German, were taken as a sample.

For a long time, lace making was a household activity. Since the first quarter of the 19th century, the art of lace-making in the Vologda region has developed into a craft. In the 1840s, the Vologda lace maker Anfiya Fyodorovna Bryantseva invented a peculiar technique for weaving piece goods, which was called the “Vologda manner”. Her daughter Sofya Petrovna was considered "the first lace-maker of Vologda", in the 1840-60s she taught the inhabitants of Vologda and the surrounding villages a new method of making lace products. After the abolition of serfdom (1861), peasant women in Kadnikovsky, Vologda, Gryazovets counties began to actively engage in lace weaving. The Vologda Zemstvo made an attempt to introduce lace weaving in Totemsky, Veliko-Ustyugsky, Velsky and Ust-Sysolsky counties. In the Ust-Sysolsk district, lace was woven only in the Nyuvchim factory by local peasant women, but drawings and threads were sent to them from Vologda. However, the lace craft in these centers did not take a leading place and did not last long. The main centers were formed near Vologda and in the western regions of the region. The lace of the Vologda craftswomen was distinguished by a rich variety of patterns that received poetic names among the people: melenka, keys, turtle, fan, porcelain, crow's feet, frost, stars, spider, Ustyanskaya grater, bows, rose, etc. Ornaments were mostly built from simple or complex geometric shapes: "city" rhombuses, crosses, squares, "geese", ovals, zigzags, crossed hooks, stars from the backings. In Kadnikov's lace, there are often geometrized images of birds standing on the sides of a tree, "peacock birds", double-headed eagles. All these patterns are characteristic of measured pair lace, and plant forms from branches and floral motifs were developed in coupling lace.

With the construction of the railway Yaroslavl - Vologda (1872), and later Vologda - St. Petersburg (1906), the lace craft spread especially rapidly. Lace was woven in various segments of the population: peasants, bourgeois, nuns, as well as the female population from the families of clergy. According to statistics, in 1912 the Vologda province accounted for 39.5% of all lace-makers in Russia. However, the earnings of lacemakers were low - 20 kopecks. in a day. Earnings in 25 - 30 kopecks. considered to be big. The lace makers who could make the pieces and sell them earned a little more. The intensive development of lace-making by the population of the Vologda province led to the active use of child labor. The work of girls accounted for 20% of the total number of craftsmen employed in production (10), boys aged 7–15 years (11) accounted for 0.9% of the total.

1.3. Lace as an integral part of the decoration for dresses and underwear.

Vologda lace-making dates back to the 16th-17th centuries, but as a craft it has existed since the first quarter of the 19th century. Initially, it is believed that lace originated in Europe, and Italy and Flanders are considered the most ancient centers of lace-making. The beginning of the trade dates back to 1820, when near Vologda, on the estates of landowners, serfs began to weave trimmings for dresses and linen, imitating Western European ones. In 1893, 4,000 craftswomen were engaged in lacemaking in the Vologda province, and 40,000 in 1912. In 1928, a vocational school of lacemakers was established in Vologda. In 1930, the Vologda Lace Union was created. In 1935 - an art laboratory at the Vologda Lace Union. In the 30s of the last century, images appeared in lace, reflecting Soviet reality. Until the 40s. of the last century, measured lace for finishing linen prevailed, later piece products - paths, napkins, elegant removable parts of women's clothing - collars, frills, capes, scarves, ties and gloves became the main ones. Dresses, tablecloths, napkins and furniture were also decorated with lace and still decorate.

Conclusion.

Studying the material for this project work, I learned a lot about Vologda lace, as well as about other types of folk art craft. Recently I was in the homeland of Vologda lace, and I really liked it there. We wove lace ourselves with bobbins and at the end of the tour we were able to purchase bobbins and a pattern for weaving.

Project executor: Sazonova Adele, student of the 5th "R" class Project leaders: Koroleva O.O., teacher of Russian language and literature Yarinich L.V., computer science teacher Vologda laces

Study the history of this type of fishery. Learn the features of the manufacture of Vologda lace. To continue Russian traditions and preserve the artistic heritage of past centuries with affordable means. Project Goals

Studying history, draw the attention of the audience to folk crafts Tell about the origin and use of Vologda lace. Lace as an integral part of decoration decoration for dresses and underwear. The content of the elements of Vologda lace. Where is Vologda lace used now? Project objectives:

Vologda lace is a type of Russian lace woven on bobbins (wooden sticks). Distributed in the Vologda region.

Pillow-roller

Pattern. The pattern is invented by a lace maker or taken from magazines

The beginning of the trade dates back to 1820, when near Vologda, on the estates of landowners, serfs began to weave trimmings for dresses and linen, imitating Western European ones. History In 1893, 4,000 craftswomen were engaged in lace craft in the Vologda province, in 1912 - 40,000

In the 30s of the last century, images appeared in lace, reflecting Soviet reality.

Until the 40s. of the last century, measured lace for finishing linen prevailed. The main items were piece products - runners, napkins, elegant removable parts of women's clothing - collars, frills, capes, scarves, ties, gloves, etc.

Elements of Vologda lace Measured lace was the basis of the Vologda craft. Paired weaving and geometric ornament prevailed.

Choosing one of the well-known motifs (a figure in the form of an angle, an inclined strip with curved ends, a rectangle), they created countless variations in its location in combination with a few other elements. Elements of Vologda lace

Snow-white patterns of light transparent lace often contain elements that look like snowflakes and prickly Christmas trees covered with white trim.

On November 3, 2010, the Museum of Lace was opened in Vologda at 12, Kremlin Square. The total area of the museum is 1400 m², and the exposition area is 600 m².

Internet resources: http://ru.wikipedia.org/wiki http://vologdalace.ru/ http://www.cultinfo.ru/decor/material/krugi/ Books: 1. Vera Dmitrievna Veselova. Lacemaker 2. Elfina-Panteleeva Viktoria Nikolaevna 3. Magazine "Koklyushka" 4. Gallery of Vologda lacemakers References

Russian lace is original, diverse in terms of subjects and execution techniques. But there are some of them that are special. More often, it is the products of Vologda lacemakers that we strongly associate with the word "lace". And this is no accident - the history of this craft in the Vologda region is rooted in the distant past and has been striking us with its elegance for several centuries. So - let's get acquainted: Vologda lace!

And Vologda lace production began at the end of the 18th century, when Russian lace-making centers formed and began to develop in various regions of Russia: Galich, Rostov, Balakhna, Kalyazin, Torzhok, Ryazan. And - Vologda!

The first lace factory here was established in 1820 by the landowner V.A. Zasetskaya in the village of Kovyrino near Vologda, from where in the second half of the 19th century. lace-making quickly spread throughout all the central districts of the Vologda province. And this was facilitated by ... the abolition of serfdom: peasant women became more free in choosing their occupation, more engaged in needlework and weaving lace for sale. This production brought additional income to the peasant family. Moreover, lace-making does not require any special investments: both threads for lace and equipment were inexpensive and anyone could buy or make them. There was no need for a special room - in the summer, lace was woven right on the street. Yes, and you can engage in this craft in fits and starts, in your free time on earth.

Gradually, lace-making became very popular: in 1893, 4 thousand lace-makers were engaged in lace-making in the Vologda province, and in 1912 - already about 40 thousand. According to the statistics of those years, a significant part of them were teenage girls. They usually started learning the craft at the age of 5-7 and by the age of 12-14 they became very experienced craftswomen. But often men also wove lace.

But how highly valued Vologda lace in the capital's stores! Cunning merchants at first passed them off as foreign in order to increase their profits. But this was unnecessary - in terms of their characteristics, the products of the Vologda craftswomen were not at all inferior to European ones. In 1876, Vologda lace deservedly received high praise at the international exhibition in Philadelphia. They were demonstrated with no less success in 1893 in Chicago.

The October Revolution undermined the lace trade. But very soon, in 1920, the handicraft section of the Northern Union was founded in Vologda, the purpose of which was to develop the crafts of the peoples of the North in the new socialist conditions. All lacemakers, and by that time there were already about 70 thousand of them, were united in artels, a vocational school was founded, which trained craftswomen and lace instructors. It was in those years that many new patterns and weaving techniques were developed, plots for lace products were created, which embodied the dreams of a new country.

At exhibitions in Paris (1925) and Brussels (1958), Vologda laces were awarded gold medals. The highest award, the Grand Prix, was awarded to them at the Paris Exhibition in 1937.

What is the secret of the success of Vologda lace? From time immemorial, lace-makers wove it by hand, using wooden bobbins, a chip with a pattern and a special pillow on a stand. Skolok (the scheme by which the pattern is woven) is the embodiment of the skill of a lace maker.

According to the technique of execution, modern Vologda lace belongs to "coupling" lace. In this type of lace, the main elements of the pattern are woven with a long braid, and then interconnected with special "couplings" and "lattices", performed separately, using a crochet hook. This technique is used in the manufacture of scarves, collars, capes, tablecloths, bedspreads, curtains, panels.

But there were also craftswomen - "mernitsa" who wove the so-called. "paired" or "measured" lace, in which the pattern was woven simultaneously with the background, which made it possible to obtain arbitrarily long strips of lace, from which cuts of the required length were measured (hence the name).

It is clear that the patterns in the coupling lace are more diverse than in the double lace. These can be geometric shapes, and motifs of the plant and animal world (Christmas trees, flowers, fish, birds, deer, lions, peacocks), and fantastic creatures (Sirin birds, unicorns), and natural phenomena (Northern Lights), and human figures (ladies, gentlemen, horsemen, peasant women in kokoshniks and sundresses), and architectural structures (churches, towers, bridges, gazebos, palaces), and technological achievements (tower cranes, aircraft, spacecraft). Yes, yes, there were even tractors and airplanes on the products of the Vologda lacemakers of the 1930s - after all, just like their great-grandmothers, they wanted to embody the world that surrounded them in lace.

For a long time, paired lace prevailed in Vologda, it accounted for approximately 2/3 of the total output. A great contribution to the development of coupling lace was made by the masters of the lace school (VKSh) that opened in Vologda in 1928. So in the 1930s, the artist Anna Alexandrovna Perova-Nikitina and the industrial training instructor Kapitolina Vasilievna Isakova developed more than 100 lattices for coupling lace. This invention changed appearance coupling lace: it became openwork, since the lattice could now play a leading role in the pattern. In addition, it was in this way that it was possible to create products combined with fabric, large large objects sewn from many parts.

In 1936, under the "Volkruzhevosoyuz" (there was such an organization!) an art laboratory was created, where numerous lace makers and artists worked on the assortment, quality, and technology of weaving lace products. Techniques common to all Vologda lace acquire an individual coloring in the work of each master. So, the work of K.V. Isakova develop a chamber lyrical direction. Tenderness and warmth of images distinguish her panel "Deer", created in 1968.

A.A. Korableva, an employee of the Research Institute of Art Industry (NIIKhP), made a great contribution to the development of the craft. She created large stitched works that became a milestone in the development of the industry: the panel "House in Gori" (1949, on the anniversary of I.V. Stalin), the curtain "Jubilee" (1954, on the 300th anniversary of the reunification of Ukraine and Russia ), curtain "Russian motives" (1958, at the World Exhibition in Brussels, he rightfully received the highest award "Grand Prix"), panel "Sputnik" (1959), panel "Aurora" (1970), panel "Buildings of Moscow" (1970), etc.

Another well-known name in Vologda is V.D. Veselova, who was born into a family of hereditary lacemakers. Her mother, and grandmother, and great-grandmother, and, possibly, distant ancestors were engaged in this craft. A family tradition has been preserved that Vera Dmitrievna's grandmother wove stockings and umbrellas for the royal court by special order. And the most famous work of the granddaughter is the tablecloth "Rook", in which the craftswoman embodied both the poetry of the image, the completeness of the drawing and her skill as a lace-maker.

But the most famous product of the Vologda lacemakers is undoubtedly the "Snowflake" tablecloth (author V.N. Elfina), which has become calling card the entire lace industry. And it is no coincidence that the Snezhinka lace association, founded in Vologda in 1964 and remaining the center of lace production to this day, owes its name to it. Now hundreds of lacemakers work here, continuing to create exquisite lace patterns from the finest threads. After all, lace, even in our computer age, is still in demand.

The works of these craftswomen, as well as dozens of others, are presented in the Lace Museum that has opened in Vologda. If you are lucky enough to visit these parts - be sure to look there. You will not regret. After all, Vologda can rightly be called the lacy capital of Russia.

In preparation, photographic materials of the site "Vologda folk crafts" were used.

"Bride of the North" 2010 Authors A.N. Rakcheeva, Yu.E. Zakharova, E.E. Marochko.

Lace has long ceased to be a common element of decor. It is perceived as a kind of metaphor for everything light and transparent, weightless and fragile. There are many techniques and varieties of weaving, but if we are talking about its production in Russia, then Vologda lace comes to mind. Thanks to him, lace makers became known all over the world.

If you want to learn how to create lace masterpieces with your own hands, remember that Vologda lace, like Vyatka lace, is woven on bobbins from the very beginning, which means that the first thing you need to do is to look for and acquire them. Pictures with pattern samples, training courses and master classes are available on the Internet for free - they can be viewed and downloaded. There you can also find splinters for collars, or vests, the main motive of which will be unusually beautiful lace flowers. And by the way - if you want to involve children in the process - you can not only weave lace, you can draw it! Decorative drawing lessons are also easy to find on the World Wide Web.

Lace has long ceased to be a common element of decor.

If it will be difficult for beginner lacemakers to master complex patterns, then weaving a simple mesh string bag will be possible. Special patterns are not used here, and accordingly it will be much easier to deal with bobbins.

What is necessary:

bobbin;
threads;
roller filled with sawdust;
lash;
Styrofoam;
graph paper;
chip;
needles;
hook.

Progress:

Cut out the base from the foam.
Draw a grid on graph paper.
Fix the resulting drawing on a foam base.
Wind the threads on the bobbins and start weaving.
Prick needles into the upper end.
Visit them with a pair of bobbins.
Tie the top of the future string bag and hide the ends of the threads in weaving.
Focusing on the scheme, determine the place of future pens.
Fix at the bottom of the handle.

Gallery: Vologda lace (25 photos)

How Vologda lace is woven (video)

Pieces of Vologda lace for beginners

A chip is a picture that is a weaving pattern. It is on its basis that lace is woven.

The easiest way to create a chip is to print it on a printer. In the future, you will need to attach it to the cardboard and put tracing paper on top. Thanks to such manipulations, it will be possible to extend its service life and preserve the original whiteness of the threads.

The chip must be made in life size. The pattern on it is depicted in the form of dots and dashes. In addition, the needlewoman can draw a drawing of a running pair.

The dots on the pins indicate where the pins should be placed. It is these points that are used in the weaving process.

It is simply impossible to create a lace masterpiece without a chip. Each lacemaker carefully keeps each of them in order to pass them on to their next generations. For beginners, the simplest of them are suitable.

It is simply impossible to create a lace masterpiece without a chip

Imitation of Vologda lace crochet: easy scheme

The technique of making Vologda lace is complex and rather laborious. This is the main reason that many knitters are afraid to resort to weaving. If you master the art of crocheting braid, you will be able to create no less beautiful products.

Progress:

First, nine air loops are dialed.
In the second row, four columns with a crochet are knitted.
Five air loops are made for the festoon.
After that, the work is turned over and the columns are knitted over the columns, five air stitches are typed for the festoon.

The technique of making Vologda lace is complex and rather laborious.

In all subsequent rows, the actions are repeated, due to which a braid with double-sided scallops is created.

DIY lace scarf

Even an inexperienced needlewoman can sew a light, elegant snood scarf made of lace. Despite the ease of manufacture, this unusual accessory looks elegant, beautiful and noble. Thanks to the combination of textiles and lace, it is possible to create a real masterpiece.

A light, elegant scarf-snood made of lace can be sewn even by an inexperienced needlewoman

What is necessary:

cut of any fabric;
lace;
threads;
scissors;
needle.

Progress:

Cut out identical rectangles from fabric and lace, the length of which should be exactly a meter, and the width should be sixty centimeters.
Lay the rectangle cut out of the fabric face up on a work surface.
Put lace on top and fasten immediately with pins.
Baste the workpiece from all sides.
To create a trumpet, sew a pair of long sides together.
Sew a pair of open ends of the product to each other with the front sides, but leave a small hole at the same time.

Turn the scarf inside out and sew up the remaining opening.

Vologda lace: the history of art

Vologda lace-making appeared in the sixteenth century, but this art developed into a craft only at the beginning of the nineteenth century. It is generally accepted that it originated in Europe, namely in Italy and France.

Imitating European masters, serfs in the vicinity of Vologda began to weave lace only in 1820. Historians have established that during this period, lace production was located in all major provinces. It was from there that products were regularly delivered to the capital and St. Petersburg.

At the beginning of the 19th century, such a factory was founded in the village of Kovyrino by the landowner Zasetskaya. On it, the serfs wove very thin lace, intended for finishing linen and dresses.

After a while, the manufacture of lace began to be engaged not only in workshops, but also at home. It was at this moment that art became truly popular. Lacemakers began to perform work that fully satisfied the needs of a wide range of local residents.

Vologda lace-making appeared in the sixteenth century, but this art developed into a craft only at the beginning of the nineteenth century

If at the end of the nineteenth century there were only four thousand craftswomen near Vologda, then only twenty years later their number increased tenfold. A decade later, a vocational school was created, in which future craftswomen were taught this art.

In the thirtieth year of the twentieth century, even a lace union was created in the Vologda province, and five years later an art laboratory was created with it. During this period, images appeared on lace that fully reflect the realities of the Soviet era. In the 1960s, the association of lace-makers "Snezhinka" was founded.

In 2010, the Lace Museum was even opened in Vologda. It contains more than five hundred items, thanks to which everyone can learn about how this artistic craft was founded and developed.

Bobbin winding technique: instructions for beginners

Bobbin weaving requires a lot of patience. Beginning needlewomen, first of all, need to master the technique of winding threads. It is this process that will be the main training of this quality. In this case, paired bobbins are used, on which the thread is wound.

Progress:

Take one of the pair of bobbins in your right hand, and place the thread in your left.
Press the tip of the thread to the neck of the bobbin with your finger and make a couple of turns around it. Thus, securely fix the thread.
After fixing the thread, it must be wound by simple rotation. Be sure to hold the thread so that it is evenly distributed throughout the bobbin.
Wind about three meters of thread and secure it with a loop.
Unwind the same amount of thread from the skein and only after that it needs to be cut.
Wind the free tip in the same way on the second of the pair of bobbins and fix it with a loop.

Leave about twenty centimeters of free thread between the bobbins.

Imitation of Bruges or Vologda lace: crochet (video)

- an ancient type of decorative and applied art. The data of the history of art and writing suggest that lace-making was known to the ancient Greeks and Egyptians. At the end of the 15th - beginning of the 16th century, it became widespread in Europe. Italy for a long time occupied the first place in this industry, but after some time it had to concede the leadership of France and Flanders.

In Russia, the first information about lace belong to the 13th century. The Ipatiev Chronicle tells how in 1252 Prince Daniel of Galicia received foreign ambassadors in rich clothes with amazing trimming resembling lace. But a noticeable phenomenon Everyday life They became Russia in the 17th century. And lace products were distributed both at the royal court, and among the merchants, and among the peasants. Only their quality, of course, was different.

The earliest examples of Russian lace weaving, preserved in museum collections, date back to the 17th century. These are the so-called "golden" laces made of gold and silver threads. They were sold by weight, taking into account, first of all, the value of precious metals. and not the craftsmanship. These laces used For decoration outfits made of dense expensive fabrics - brocade, velvet, patterned silk. They were also used to decorate church utensils.

During the reign of PeterI lace-makers were sent to Russia from abroad. The history of the appearance and development of lace is full of mysteries and contradictions. There is a legend that in 1725 Peter I ordered from the Brabant monasteries - 250 lacemakers, for teaching lace weaving to orphans in the Novodevichy Convent. How long this teaching existed in the monastery is unknown. But what is interesting, in the samples of lace, preserved in different parts of Russia, and in the names of these laces, many old lace-makers pointed to the “draban (ie Brabant) thread”.

Lace (detail)

The fashion for this craft has led to the fact that many wives of Russian nobles began to learn how to work with bobbins, and organized workshops in their estates, where serfs weaved lace. Women's monasteries also became famous for their skill in this matter.. By the end of the XVIII century. artistic features of the centers of Russian lace-making were formed. Vologda, Rostov, Galich, Kalyazin, Torzhok, Balakhna, Ryazan became such centers.

Vologda lace - a type of Russian lace, woven on bobbins(wooden sticks), common in the Vologda region.

For the manufacture of Vologda lace, you need: a cushion-roller; bobbin; juniper or birch; pins; chip. A typical material for Vologda lace is linen, bleached or harsh.

In the 17th century, lacemakers mastered the technique of weaving lace using silver and gold threads made from drawn wire or from a silk thread-core entwined with a metal thread.

The beginning of the trade dates back to 1820, when near Vologda, on the estates of landowners, serfs began to weave trimmings for dresses and linen, imitating Western European ones.

Lace Museum (Vologda). Exposition of the 20th century. Lace “Mausoleum”

During the time of serfdom, all significant landlord estates of the province had lace "factories" that supplied lace products to St. Petersburg and Moscow. One of these factories was founded by the landowner Zasetskaya three versts from Vologda in the village of Kovyrino no later than the 20s of the 19th century. There, the serfs wove the finest lace for trimming dresses and underwear, imitating Western European patterns.

Lace Museum (Vologda). Exposition of the 20th century. Lace “Star”

This was facilitated by several circumstances: after serfdom was abolished, the peasants had a freer choice of occupation, and the demand for lace increased.

Their production brought additional income to peasant families.

It turned out to be very important that the materials needed for weaving lace were inexpensive.. Craftswomen do not need a specially equipped room. Lacemakers could practice this craft in their free time on the ground.

In the 30s of the 20th century, images appeared in lace that reflected Soviet reality. Until the 40s. In the 20th century, measured lace for finishing linen prevailed, later piece products became the main ones - paths, napkins, elegant removable details of women's clothing - collars, jabots, capes, scarves, ties, gloves etc.

In 1960, the Vologda lace association "Snezhinka" was organized. Manufactured yatsya dimensional lace, bedspreads, napkins, curtains, as well as unique exhibition samples based on the sketches of artists (A. A. Korableva, M. A. Guseva, etc.).

Lace “Lukomorye” (detail)

Vologda lace has repeatedly received the highest awards at exhibitions:

- at an exhibition in Brussels in 1958 they were awarded gold medal lacy Vologda curtain "Russian motifs";

- in 1925 received gold medal at the International Exhibition of Modern Decorative and Industrial Arts in Paris;

- in 1937 at the Paris Exhibition they were awarded an award The Grand Prix.

In 1964 in Vologda they created lace association "Snowflake". It got its name from the famous tablecloth "Snowflake" by V.N. Elfina. However, similar motifs were widely used in lace products before.

November 3, 2010 in Vologda, in the building of the former State Bank on Kremlin Square, 12, Lace Museum opened. The main exposition presents more than 500 items that tell about the foundation and development of this traditional artistic craft of the Vologda region.

An article about the Museum of Lace in Vologda is located