Cloth. It may vary in size. What may look good on one woman may not work well on another. So why torture yourself with clothes of an incomprehensible size when you can wear your sophisticated look of clothes in plus sizes. Patterns for large size clothes are not so difficult to make. It just takes a little effort. You can make patterns of clothes of large sizes of such types: a pattern of a dress or trousers. After all, today fashion has changed a little. After all, if a couple of years ago clothes in model sizes were in fashion, today there is a revolution in the fashion world. More and more preference is given to men by women who are not like these "bony" models. These models torture themselves with different diets, and they look like hungry cats. Yes, women "in the body" are in fashion. Here we can recall that in the old days in Rus', men preferred plumper women. Why would you say? Yes, because they could bear healthy offspring. And the thin ones could not guarantee that their children would be healthy. So the men were looking for women in the "body". They knew that their children would not have health problems. Probably, the men changed their minds and realized that healthy offspring are more important than these “bones”. So that lovely women should not be discouraged by their vaga, remember what happened in Rus'? Yes, fashion is back again, so feel free to make patterns for clothes in large sizes, and the way others envy you.
On a conventionally typical figure. This pattern is ideal for women with standard figures. Today, due to your numerous requests, we will tell you how to build a large-size dress / blouse pattern - for women with beautiful Rubensian forms.
Before proceeding with the construction of a dress pattern, it is necessary from the figure. When taking measurements, stand straight, keep your hands freely along the body. When taking measurements, do not try to reduce the volume: if there is a small tummy, do not pull it in strongly, because we do not do this all the time, in ordinary life, and the finished dress may be narrow when worn.
Increases in freedom of fit should be taken from, according to the chosen silhouette. In the article, the construction is shown on the example of a dress of an adjacent silhouette with an increase in freedom of fitting of 3 cm (to the half-girth of the chest). Of these, add 0.5 cm to the width of the back, 1 cm to the armhole and 1.5 cm to the width of the front of the dress.
For construction, we use the measurements of a standard size 56:
- Back width 42 cm
- Armhole width 12.5 cm
- Chest width 48 cm
- Width over bust 38 cm
- h = 12 cm
- Center chest 22cm
- chest height 33 cm
- Armhole depth 22 cm
- Length to back waist 1 (DTS1) 45 cm
- Length to back waist 2 (DTS2) 47 cm
- Shoulder height oblique 48 cm
- Shoulder height oblique front 50 cm
- Shoulder length 13cm
- Length to waist front (accident) 51 cm
- hip height 20 cm
- Neck girth 42 cm
- Shoulder length 13cm
- Waist 96cm
- Hips 122 cm
- Back length 100 cm.
Rice. 1. Dress pattern for large size - measurements
How to accurately measure the width and depth of the armhole?
To measure the width and depth of the armhole, use a strip of paper 4-5 cm wide and about 30 cm long.
- Armhole width: hold a strip of paper horizontally under your armpit, put serifs to the left and right by hand (Fig. 2).
- Armhole Depth: Hold a strip of paper horizontally under your armpit, pull the strip over your back. Measure the depth of the armhole from the 7th cervical vertebra to the strip of paper (Fig. 3).
Rice. 2. How to take measurements
Advice! To open drawings and drawings in full size, open each in a new window.
Rice. 3. How to take measurements for a pattern
Building a dress pattern for a large size
Back construction
We begin the construction of the pattern with the construction of the back. Step back 10-15 cm from the top of the paper and put point A in the left corner. Draw a vertical line down from point A and a horizontal line to the right. AN=100 cm (dress length according to measurements).
The depth of the floodplain of the dress. From point A, lay down the length of the armhole depth according to the measurement + 0.5 cm for a free fit for all sizes: AG \u003d 22 + 0.5 \u003d 22.5 cm.
Rice. 4. Building a dress pattern for a large size - back
Back length to waist. From point A, lay down the length of the back to the waist according to the measurement: AT \u003d 45 cm.
The line of the hips of the dress. From point T, lay down 20 cm: TB \u003d 20 cm (hip height by measure). From the obtained points, draw horizontal lines to the right.
Back width. From point G, set aside to the right along the line 1/2 of the width of the back by measure + 0.5 cm (increase in freedom of fitting from). GG1 \u003d 21 + 0.5 \u003d 21.5 cm. Draw a straight line upward from point G1 - point B is obtained.
Armhole width. From the point G1 set aside to the right 1/2 of the width of the armhole according to the measurement with an increase of 1 cm for all sizes: G1G2 \u003d (12.5 + 1) / 2 \u003d 13.5/2 \u003d 6.75 cm.
Back line. From point G2, lower the perpendicular down to the bottom line. Received points T1, B1, H1.
Back neckline. From point A to the right, set aside 1/6 of the neck circumference according to the measurement + 1 cm for all sizes: AA1 \u003d 42/6 + 1 \u003d 8 cm.
From point A1, set aside the difference between the measurements DTS2 and DTS1: A1A2 \u003d DTS2-DTS1 \u003d 47 cm - 45 cm \u003d 2 cm. Connect points A and A2 with a concave smooth line. Got a back neckline.
Back shoulder. From point T, draw an arc with a radius R = 48 cm (The height of the shoulder is oblique according to the measure).
Dress back shoulder length. The length of the shoulder of the back is calculated by the formula Dpl \u003d Shoulder length by measure + 2 cm (per tuck) \u003d 13 + 2 \u003d 15 cm. From point A2, draw a shoulder line 15 cm long so that the extreme point of the shoulder lies on the arc - point P.
Back armhole line. Divide the segment ВГ1 in half - an auxiliary point has been obtained for constructing the armhole line of the back. Connect the points P, the middle point of division VG1 and the point G2 with a smooth line, as shown in fig. 1.
Back shoulder tuck. From point A2 to the right along the shoulder, set aside 1/3 of the length of the shoulder - point B1, from the resulting point lower down a perpendicular 8 cm long - point B2.
From point B1 to the right along the shoulder line, set aside a tuck depth of 2 cm - point B3. Connect points B2 and B3 with a straight line. The right side of the tuck В2В3 = В1В2. Connect points B3 and P with a straight line - you got the shoulder line of the back. Draw the sides of the tuck with slightly concave lines.
The line of the side of the back at the waist. In order for the dress to comfortably fit the figure in the waist area, it is necessary to calculate the difference between the width of the back mesh and 1/4 of the waist circumference according to the measurements: (1/2 Back width with an increase + 1/2 Armhole width with an increase) minus 1/4 FROM by the measure = (21.5 + 6.75) - 24 ≈ 4 cm. We will increase this value by 2.5 cm, taking it from the allowance for a free fit. Thus, the total excess fabric that needs to be removed in the darts will be 6.5 cm.
Why it is needed: to make the silhouette of the dress more fitting along the waistline. Set aside 2 cm from point T1 to the left - point T2. Connect points T2 and G2.
Divide TT2 in half and lower the perpendicular down to the line of the hips. From the point of intersection with the waist line, set aside 1.5 cm to the left and right (tuck depth = 3 cm). Draw a tuck not reaching 4 cm to the GG1 line and 3 cm to the BB1 line.
Side seam back. Since the width of the grid is built according to the measurements of the chest, and the girth of the hips is much larger, we calculate the lack of volume for the hips: H1 by 2.5 cm and draw a line of the side seam through the points T2-B2-H2.
Center back seam. With an arched back, as well as to create a more fitted silhouette from the T point, set aside 1-1.5 cm to the right and draw the middle seam of the back as shown in fig. 4.
Building the front
Extend all horizontal lines to the right. Set aside 40-45 cm from point H2 to the right and set point H3.
From point H3, swipe up vertical line. Points B3, T3, G3 were received.
The width of the front of the dress. From point G3 to the left, set aside 1/2 of the width of the chest according to the measure (Width of the chest at the protruding points) with an increase in the free fit G3G4 \u003d 24 + 1.5 cm \u003d 25.5 cm. Draw up a perpendicular line of arbitrary length.
Rice. 5. Dress pattern for large size - back and front
The width of the armhole in front of the dress. From point G4 to the left, set aside 1/2 of the width of the armhole with an increase of 6.75 cm (similar to the back) - point G5 is obtained. Draw a vertical line from point G5 down to the bottom line: points T4, B4, H4 are obtained.
Front height. Set aside 51 cm from point T3 upwards (Length to the waist of the front according to the measure) - point W is obtained.
Front neck width. Draw a horizontal line of arbitrary length from the W point to the left and set aside 1/6 of the neck girth according to the measurements + 1 cm for all sizes: ШШ1 = 42/6 + 1 = 8 cm. point Ш2 is received.
Center of the chest. To find the location of the top point of the chest tuck C, use 2 measurements:
Chest height (SH) = 33 cm
Center chest (CG) = 22 cm
From point Ш1, draw down a straight segment Ш1С with a length of 33 cm (measurement Height of the chest), so that the distance CC1 is 11 cm (½ measurement Center chest).
From point C, set aside h \u003d 12 cm upwards (measurement between the levels of the width of the chest and the width above the chest). From point C, using a compass, draw an arc with a radius of CC2 = 12 cm.
Chest tuck depth. From point C2 along the arc, set aside to the left ½ of the difference between the measurements Chest width and Width above the chest: (48 - 38) / 2 \u003d 5 cm - point C3 is obtained. Connect points C and C3 with a straight line, extend the segment up. Length SS1=SS3.
Shoulder in front of the dress. From point T3, draw an arc with a radius R = 50 cm (Shoulder height oblique front according to the measure).
Shoulder length at the front of the dress. Set aside 13 cm from the W3 point (the length of the shoulder according to the measure) so that the extreme point of the shoulder lies on the arc: W3P1 = 13 cm.
The line of the armhole in front of the dress. Set aside G5G6 ≈ 6.5 cm (an auxiliary point for constructing an armhole in front) and draw an armhole line through the points P1-G6-G5.
Tail darts in front of the dress. Let's calculate the tucks: (Front mesh width minus ¼ waist circumference by measure = (25.5 + 6.75) - 24 = 8. It is this value that needs to be removed in the side and in the tackle darts. The depth of the side tuck is 3 cm, the depth of the right of the traveling darts - 3 cm, the depth of the left traveling darts - 2 cm. From point T4 set aside 3 cm to the right - point T5. Connect point T5 with point G5. The length and location of the traveling tucks are shown in Fig. 2.
The line of the side of the back along the hips. Side seam in front. Calculate the lack of volume in the hips similarly to the back: B4B5 \u003d (Hip girth - Chest girth) / 4 \u003d (122-112) / 4 \u003d 2.5 cm. Set aside 2.5 cm from points B4 and H4 to the left and draw a line of the side seam through the points T5-B5-H5.
The dress pattern for the large size is ready. Then move on to building. To do this, you will need to take measurements (see Fig. 1-2):
- The length of the sleeve
- Shoulder girth
- Wrist circumference.
After the pattern is built, it needs to be checked. To do this, sew from mock-up fabric. Try on and evaluate the accuracy of the basic design. Make changes if necessary.
Now you know how to build an accurate basic pattern dresses - share it with others! Even more original patterns And interesting ideas for creativity you will find on the website of the School of Sewing Anastasia Korfiati. Sign up for a free subscription and be the first to receive new lessons!
This section is dedicated to curvy women. We will consider and learn how to build patterns using several methods that are used when sewing clothes for obese women. Here, as in previous lessons, we use step by step instructions building drawings of the base of the dress, sleeves, etc.
As an example, in the first option, we will take measurements that correspond to size 54 (bust circumference 108cm), so to speak, for women of medium splendor. In the second option, we use, as an example, measurements corresponding to size 60 (bust circumference 120cm), for women with more magnificent forms. In both cases, we build patterns for the base of the dress. semiadjacent silhouette, in accordance with this, we take into account the allowance for a free fit along the lines of the chest, waist and hips.
You take measurements from your figure or from the figure of the person for whom you will sew a dress.
In any case, we recommend that after building a drawing and making a pattern, check it on something simple. For example, sew a dressing gown from cheap fabric. If you are not at all sure, use an old sheet or another thing that has served its age for sewing.
As a parting word: I wish you courage in your endeavors, perseverance, perseverance and patience in achieving your goal. Step by step, moving forward, you will overcome the path to perfection.
We use exactly step by step drawing instructions to demonstrate and convince you that in fact everything is not as complicated as it might seem at first glance. When you look at the finished drawing of the base pattern and have not encountered anything like this before, you may get the impression that all this is incredibly difficult and almost impossible. However, I note that the impossible is most often just something that we have not yet tried to do. Good luck!
SEMI-FITTING DRESS FOR WOMEN OF MIDDLE COMPLETENESS (for example, size 54)
To build a pattern drawing, you need to take the following measurements:
Recommendation: Take the correct measurements. The whole result of your efforts will depend on this.
In order to take measurements more accurately, it is necessary to mark the starting points: the seventh cervical vertebra, which is well defined when the head is tilted, as well as the shoulder line at the base of the neck and at the junction of the arm with the shoulder. Use pins or chalk for this if the woman is dressed. If you need to put a point on the body, use a felt-tip pen, which is easily erased with an alcohol-containing liquid after the end of this procedure.
It’s good if the person you are taking measurements from is wearing a thin dress, or better, only underwear. He, or rather she, since we are talking about a woman, should stand straight, without tension, i.e. maintain your normal posture. That is what I draw your attention to. Because, often a woman, when taking measurements or trying on, especially if she sees her reflection in the mirror, wanting to look slimmer, tightens her stomach, straightens her back, etc. The desire to look better is a good desire, but when taking measurements, it can distort the real state of things. And a well-fitting dress on fitting, in ordinary life, will not be as comfortable as we would like, and as it should be.
Therefore, taking into account the above, turn the client away from the mirror, distract him with a peaceful conversation, tie a string around his waist, mark the starting points and proceed to measurements.
There are some differences between the proposed methods. in the methods of taking measurements, in the number of measurements, in the name of the measurements, etc. In this technique, the procedure for taking measurements is as follows:
Name of measurements and symbols |
cm |
Taking measurements |
|---|---|---|
Product length (Di) |
Measure from the cervical point (seventh cervical vertebra), bringing the centimeter to the waist and to the required length. |
|
Armhole depth (Gpr) |
Measure from the seventh cervical vertebra to a horizontal line drawn with a centimeter through the armpits. |
|
Back length to waist (Dst) |
Measured from the seventh cervical vertebra to the waist line, taking into account the prominence of the shoulder blades. To do this, a thin ruler can be attached to the protruding points of the shoulder blades, the centimeter tape should pass over the ruler. |
|
Back width (W) |
Measure horizontally along the shoulder blades, between the upper corners armpits. |
|
Half neck (Ssh) |
The measuring tape should run along the base of the neck, behind the seventh cervical vertebrae, in front of the jugular cavity (depression). |
|
Semi-girth of the chest 1st (СгI) |
The centimeter tape runs horizontally, behind the protruding points of the shoulder blades, in front above the base of the chest. |
|
Half bust 2nd (CrII) |
The centimeter tape runs horizontally behind the protruding points of the shoulder blades, in front along the protruding points of the chest. |
|
Groove opening size (Brv) |
Measured vertically. It is removed simultaneously with the measurements of the half-girths of the chest. This is the distance from the base of the chest to its highest point. |
|
Waist (St) |
Measure horizontally at the narrowest point. |
|
Half hips (Sat) |
Measured horizontally, behind the protruding points of the buttocks, in front, taking into account the bulge of the abdomen. |
|
Root height (Br) |
Measure along the back from the shoulder at the base of the neck to the waist line. The measuring tape runs parallel to the spine. |
|
Back shoulder height (Vps) |
Measure along the back from the point of articulation of the arm with the shoulder to the waist. |
|
Armhole Width (Spr) |
It is measured horizontally under the arm: from the place of articulation of the arm with the body from the back side to the articulation of the arm with the body from the front side. It can be calculated using a ruler located horizontally in the armpit. |
|
Side length (db) |
Measure from the back side from the top edge of the ruler located in the armpit to the waist line. |
|
Shoulder length (Dp) |
Measure along the shoulder from the base of the neck to the point of articulation of the arm with the shoulder. |
|
Chest Height (Hg) |
Measure from the shoulder line at the base of the neck to the protruding point of the chest. |
|
Front Shoulder Height (RH) |
Measure from the point of articulation of the arm with the shoulder to the waist. |
|
Front length to waist (Dpt) |
Measure from the shoulder at the base of the neck to the waistline. |
|
Center of the chest (Cg) |
Measure horizontally between the most protruding points of the chest. |
|
Front Width (W) |
Measured horizontally above the base of the chest between the corners of the armpits. |
|
Width of the front at the protruding points of the chest (ShpII) Control measurement |
It is measured horizontally between the corners of the armpits at the most protruding points of the chest. |
|
Sleeve length (dr) |
It is measured from the point of articulation of the arm with the shoulder to the desired length. |
|
Sleeve length to elbow (DRL) |
Measured from the point of articulation of the arm with the shoulder to the elbow. |
|
Arm circumference (Op) |
Measured horizontally at the fullest upper part of the arm (at armpit level). |
|
Girth of the wrist (hand) Oz |
Measured at the wrist joint, taking into account the bone. |
|
Free fit allowances |
||
Let's start building.
We draw in the right corner of the prepared sheet of paper a right angle with a vertex at a point R(Fig. 1).
Dress length.
From the point P down we postpone the taken measurement of the length of the dress Di(100 cm) and put a point H.
Armhole depth.
From the point P down we put off the taken measure of the depth of the armhole ( Gpr\u003d 21 cm) and put a point G.
Waistline.
From the point P down, we postpone the taken measurement of the length of the back to the waist (Dst=39 cm) and put a dot T.
Hip line.
from point T down is usually delayed 18 - 19 cm. We will take the average 18,5
see and put an end B.
From points G, T, B and H to the left at a right angle we draw horizontal lines: the depths of the armhole, waist, hips and bottom.
Back width.
From point G to the left, we postpone the measured back width Shs(19.5) plus 0,5
cm (increase in free fit) and put an end to G1:
GG1 \u003d Ws + 0.5 \u003d 19.5 + 0.5 \u003d 20 cm.
Distance to the sideline.
from point G1 to the left we set aside half of the taken measurement of the width of the armhole Shpr (12.5) minus 1
see and point G2:
G1 G2 \u003d Spr: 2 - 1 \u003d (12.5: 2) -1 \u003d 5.25 cm.
from point G2 draw a straight line down and put points at its intersection with the lines of the waist and hips T2 and B1.
Root width.
from point R postpone to the left 1/3
semicircumference of the neck Ssh(19cm) plus 1 cm and put a point P1:
PP1 \u003d 1/3 Ssh +1 = 19:3+1=7,3
cm.
Root height.
From point P1 upwards, we set aside the difference between the measurements of the height of the sprout Wr(41cm) and back length to waist Dst (39cm) and put a point R2:
P1P2 \u003d Vr - Dst \u003d 41 - 39 \u003d 2 cm.
points R And R2 connect with a concave smooth curve. We get the line of the neck of the back (line of the sprout).
Back height.
from point T1 up we postpone the taken measurement of the height of the shoulder of the back WPS(36 cm) and put a dot P.
from point G1 up put off 1/3
segment distance G1P and put a point ABOUT. Compasses from a point ABOUT draw to the left through the point P arc.
Shoulder length.
From the point P2 as from the center, with a radius equal to 15cm(taken measurement of shoulder length Dp (13cm) plus 2cm on the tuck), we draw an arc to the intersection with the previously constructed arc (see Fig. 12). Put a point at the intersection of two arcs P1.
R2
P1
=13+2=15cm.
points R2
And P1
connect.
Connecting the dots P1, O and G2 smooth curve, as shown in Figure 12, we complete the construction back openings.
Back shoulder tuck.
from point R2
left on the line R2
P1
set aside 1/3 of the measured shoulder length Dp and set point B;
P2B=13:3=4.3cm.
Draw a vertical line down from point B 8
cm and put point B1.
from point IN left along the line R2P1 postpone 2 cm and put a point AT 2. From a point IN 1 through a point AT 2 draw a line long 8 cm and put a point AT 3. points V3P1 connect with a straight line and get back shoulder line.
Lateral back line.
from point T2 put aside to the right 2
cm and put a point T3. points T3 And G2 connect.
Waistline shaping.
from point T3 up put off 1
cm and put a point T4, points T4 And T connect with a smooth curve (see Fig. 16).
from point B1 postpone to the left 1/2
C6 (60+3=63 cm) and second bust CrII with an added free fit (54+4=58cm) and put a point B2:
B1, B2 \u003d (63-58): 2 \u003d 2.5 cm. points G4 And B2 connect with a smooth curve.
Back bottom width.
from point H to the left we set aside a value that is equal to the width of the back along the hip line (see the drawing, this is the distance BB2) plus 2-3 cm and put a point H1. points H1 And B2 H1 up put off 1cm and put a point H2. points H2 And H connect with a smooth curve.
Back tuck.
Distance YG1 G3.from point G3 draw a vertical line down and put a dot at the intersection of it with the waistline T5, with a line of hips - a point B3. from point G3 put down 4 cm and put a point AT 4, and from the point B3 up - 3 cm and put a point B4.
Depth of tuck.
from point T5 to the right and to the left along the waist line, lay off along 1 cm and put points T6 And T7 AT 4 And B4(see fig. 20).
Back construction completed.
Before
back hem line HH1 let's continue to the left. from point H1 postpone approximately 45-50 cm and put a point H3. From a point H3 draw a vertical line up. From points G2, T2, B2 draw horizontal lines to the left until they intersect with the vertical. The points of intersection with the vertical line are denoted accordingly G4, T8, B5.
Front width.
from point G4
to the right we postpone the taken measurement of the semicircumference of the chest second CrII with an added free fit (54 + 4)
minus the width of the back with an increase (according to the drawing ГГ1 = 20 cm) and minus armhole width (measurement taken 12.5 cm) and put a point G5:
Г4Г5=58-20-12.5=25.5 cm.
Through the dot G5 draw a vertical line down, at the intersection of which with the waist line we put a point T9.
Distance to the sideline. from point G5 to the right, set aside half the width of the armhole Spr(12.5) plus 1 cm and put a point G6:
Г5Г6 \u003d 12.5: 2 + 1 \u003d 7.25 cm.
from point G6 draw a vertical line down and put dots at its intersection with the horizontal lines T10 and B6.
Front height.
from point T8 up we postpone the taken measurement of the length of the front to the waist Dpt (44 cm) and put a point P3
Neck width.
from point P3 draw a horizontal line to the right and put aside on it 1/3
semicircumference of the neck Ssh!(19cm) plus 1 cm and put a point R4:
R3
R4
\u003d 19: 3 + 1 \u003d 7.3 cm.
Neck depth.
from point P3 put down 1/3
semicircumference of the neck Ssh (19cm) plus 1.5 cm and put a point P5:
Р3Р5 \u003d 19: 3 + 1.5 \u003d 7.8 cm.
points R4
And P5 connect a straight line, divide it in half and mark the middle with a dot O1. from point O1 lay down at a right angle 1.25 cm and put a point 02
. points P5, 02 and P4 connect with a smooth curve and get the line of the neck of the shelf.
Center of the chest.
from point G4 to the right we postpone the taken measurement of the center of the chest CG (11 cm) and put a point G7. points R4 And G7
connect.
Chest height.
from point R4 down, extending the line Р4Г7, we postpone the taken measurement of chest height Vg (29.5 cm) and put a point C.
End of tuck.
Along the same line from the point C up put off 2.5 cm and put a point C 1. At this point, the chest tuck ends.
The size of the tuck solution.
from point C upwards we postpone the taken measurement of the size of the solution of the tuck Vrv (12 cm) and put a point U. From a point C, as from the center, through a point At draw an arc to the right.
Opening of the tuck.
from point At on the drawn arc, we set aside the difference between the measurements of the half-girth of the chest of the second CrII (54cm) and semi-girth of the chest of the first CgI (49cm) and put a point U1.
YU1 \u003d CrII - CrI \u003d 54 - 49 \u003d 5cm This construction can be done using a compass. From a point At, as from the center, radius 5cm draw an arc until it intersects with the previously constructed arc. Mark the point of intersection U1.
through dots C1 and U1 draw a straight line, continuing it up by an amount that is equal to the distance C1R4 and put a point P2:
C1P2 = C1R4.
Front shoulder height.
On a straight line T9G5, extending it upwards, from the point T9 we postpone the taken measurement of the height of the shoulder of the front runway (35 cm) and put a point P3.
Auxiliary armhole point.
from point G5 up put off 1/4
distances G5P3 (4.5 cm) and put a point 03
. Dot 0
3
- check Point. When wetting the sleeve into the armhole, it connects to the mark on the sleeve at the point ABOUT
From a point 0
3
circle through a point P3
draw an arc to the right.
Shoulder length. From a point P2
, as from the center, with a radius equal to measured shoulder length Dpl, (in our case 13cm) draw an arc to the intersection with the previously constructed arc and put a point P4
. points P4
, 0
3
And
G6
we connect with a smooth curve, thereby completing the construction of the armhole in front .
Lateral front line.
from point T10 postpone to the left 1.5 cm and put a point T11. points G6 and T11 connect with a straight line.
Waistline shaping.
from point T11 up put off 1 cm and put a point T12. points T8 and T12 connect with a smooth curve.
Formation of the lateral line in the thigh area.
from point B6 put aside to the right 1/2
difference between hip measurements Sat with an added free fit (60+3=63 cm) and second bust CrII with an added free fit (54+4=58cm) and put a point B7:
B6
B7 \u003d (63-58): 2 \u003d 2.5 cm.
points T12 and B7 connect with a smooth curve.
Bottom front width.
from point H3 to the right, set aside a value that is equal to the width of the front along the hip line (see the drawing, this is the distance B5B7), plus 2-3 cm and put a point H4. points B7
And H4
connect with a straight line. from point H4 up put off 1 cm and put a point H5.
Front extension.
from point H3 put down 2 cm and put a point H6. points H6
and H5
connect with a smooth curve.
Construction of a tuck.
Distance G7G5 divide in half and put a dot G8. from point G8 down we draw a vertical line, and at the intersection with the lines of the waist and hips we put points T13 and B8. from point G8 put down 6 cm, and from the point B8 up - 2 cm and put points B5 and B9.
Groove depth.
from point T13 right and left put aside 1.25 cm and put points T14 and T15, which we connect with points B5 and B9. (See Fig.42)
Construction completed.
But before you start cutting, do not be too lazy to take a centimeter and check the main measurements again. Pay special attention to the waist circumference, since in this technique, when constructing darts along the waist line, not a calculated value is used, but a constant. If during the check you find significant discrepancies between the figure and the drawing (namely in the waist circumferences), they can be easily eliminated by reducing or increasing the opening of the tucks along the waistline.
This is a pattern drawing for the base of a dress - a guide to creating a wide variety of models. Before proceeding with modeling, it is necessary to check the pattern, “put” it on the figure, and, if necessary, make adjustments. And only after full confidence that everything is in order, you can safely begin to create.
And remember, the road will be mastered by the walking one!
I sincerely wish you success!
Download in one file | turbobit | | |
Don't forget to add to your bookmarks. The bookmark buttons are below.
The rights to this article belong exclusively to the author. Full or partial use of the materials of this article in electronic publications on the Internet is possible only if the following conditions are met:
Author information must be saved. In the title or at the end of the published reprint, the source www.website of the Internet resource "Sewing Master" with a direct, active, visible to the user, not closed from indexing by search engines hyperlink to this article should be indicated.
The publication of texts by newspapers, magazines or other replication outside the Internet is possible only with the written consent of the author.
Pattern-base for full figures, for sizes 50-58, built according to the same method as But differs in some specific features: allowances and a line of the shoulder seam, associated with the fact that a magnificent bust and, very often, a full waist and stomach, require other allowances for a loose fit. And must be measured especially carefully.
Therefore, in this article, I decided to place a table with the actual measurements of my clients, 50-58 sizes, with the types of figures "apple", "pear", " hourglass". They will help you build your own custom base pattern.
Table of measurements 50-58 sizes.
Features of calculations for patterns-bases 50-58 sizes.
Rule 1
If for sizes 44-50 0.5 cm is added to half of the chest circumference, then for patterns for full figures 54-58 - 0.7-1 cm. This is done so that the side seam does not move towards the front.
Rule 2
When constructing a front pattern of 54-58 sizes, due to the large size of the tuck - 11-15 cm, the shoulder seam line can be drawn at a significant slope. Because of this armhole, the front is small and short for such sizes. It is very difficult to sew a sleeve into it correctly and beautifully.
Therefore, when I build a pattern, I usually check the shoulder slope line with a control measure - oblique chest height - VGk. Even if it coincides with the drawn line of the shoulder, I “raise” the shoulder seam by 1-1.5 cm - the picture on the bottom collage. And, as a rule, when trying on, if we sew a model of a dress with sleeves, we deepen the armhole by 1.5-3 cm for blouses and dresses, and for jackets - by 2-4 cm
Rule 3
For full apple-shaped figures, the side seam line usually passes through the points at the intersection of the bust, hips and control line. And the width of the side and central tucks is only 2-2.5 cm
For hourglass and pear silhouette figures, it is more difficult to build a base pattern due to the large difference in the size of the chest, waist and hips. For example, if the exhaust gas is 110 cm, from is 90 cm, and the OB is 118, the width of the darts is 3 cm
As a result, a rather sharp bend in the side seam is obtained, which is difficult to iron when sewing a dress or jacket. Therefore, it is preferable to sew models with a central seam on the back, and redistribute the width of the darts. If the deflection along this seam is 1 cm, then side darts can be reduced by 0.5-0.7 cm each. And I prefer to sew a zipper, when the style allows it, into the central seam of the back. If the model of the dress with a skirt is “semi-sun”, then the zipper is sewn into the side seam.
Calculations for pattern base 50-58 sizes.
The allowance for a loose fit to the chest circumference, for a dress and a blouse, even an adjacent silhouette, it is better to make 7-8 cm, for a semi-adjacent and for a jacket - 9-10 cm
Calculation of measurements for size 50.
OT - 78 or OT - 84
(OG + 8): 2 = 108: 2 = 54: 2 = 27
For the front pattern, add 0.5, for the back pattern, subtract 0.5 cm
OG on the front chest line - 27.5
OG back - 26.5
Calculation of the dimensions of the darts.
From \u003d 78 cm + 4 \u003d 82: 2 \u003d 41
From the calculated measurement of half the OG with an allowance, we subtract the resulting value of half the waist with allowances: 54 - 41 \u003d 13: 4 \u003d 3.2 - for an hourglass figure.
With OT \u003d 84, the size of the darts is as follows: 84 + 4 \u003d 88: 2 \u003d 44
54 - 44 \u003d 10 cm: 4 \u003d 2.5 cm - for an apple silhouette figure.
Calculation of the size of the hip line.
(OB + 4): 2 = 104 + 4 = 108: 2 = 54
For a figure with such measurements, the points of the front line of the chest and the line of the hips are located on the same control line.
If OB \u003d 110 cm, then after calculating: (110 + 4 \u003d 114) : 2 \u003d 57, the difference between half the circumference of the chest with allowances and half the circumference of the hips with allowances, would be 3 cm.
57 - 54 \u003d 3: 2 \u003d +1.5 cm - this value must be set aside from the control line on the front and back pattern along the hips. For the front - to the left, for the back - to the right.
Calculation of measurements for a pattern of 52 sizes.
OG \u003d (104 + 8) : 2 \u003d 112: 2 \u003d 56: 2 \u003d 28
0.5 = 28.5 - front, - 0.5 = 27.5 - back
OT \u003d (92 + 4): 2 \u003d 48
Darts = 56 - 48 = 8: 4 = 2 cm - each tuck
OB \u003d (112 + 4) : 2 \u003d 116: 2 \u003d 58
58 - 56 \u003d 2 cm: 2 - + 1 cm along the hip line from the control line.
Calculation of measurements for size 54.
OG \u003d (108 + 8) : 2 \u003d 116: 2 \u003d 58: 2 \u003d 29
OG transfer \u003d 29 + 0.7 \u003d 29.7
OG back \u003d 29 - 0.7 \u003d 28.3
From = (94 + 4) : 2 = 98: 2 = 49
Darts = 58 - 49 = 11: 4 = 2.7
OB \u003d (116 + 4) : 2 \u003d 120: 2 \u003d 60 - 58 \u003d 2: 2 \u003d +1 cm from the control lines along the hip line
Calculation of measurements for size 58.
OG \u003d (116 + 8) : 2 \u003d 124: 2 \u003d 62: 2 \u003d 31
OG transfer = 31 + 1 = 32
Back exhaust gas 31 - 1 = 30
OT \u003d (98 + 4) \u003d 2 \u003d 102: 2 \u003d 51
62 - 51 \u003d 11: 4 \u003d 2.7 cm - darts
OB \u003d (122 + 4) : 2 \u003d 126: 2 \u003d 63
63 - 62 \u003d 1 cm: 2 \u003d + 0.5 cm from the point of the reference line on the line of the hips.
In order to build a base pattern for a dress with a straight silhouette, draw lines parallel to the middle of the front and back, from a point on the line of the hips, to the required length of the dress.
Using such a pattern, if it is built accurately and tested, you will be able to model and sew any of the models.
For a trapezoid dress, continue the control line to the required length and set the point of inclination of the side seam at a distance of 12-22 cm to the left of it - for the front half of the pattern. For the pattern of the back, respectively, to the right. This distance can be increased to 25 cm, but no more, especially if the length of the dress is up to the knee. The side seams will simply “fold” inward, and the dress will look sloppy.
If you want a more flared dress, then choose a model with an undercut under the bust and a half-sun or A-line cut at the bias. You can choose a dress model with reliefs - each detail changes along the bottom line to the required width.