Look at these chic men's trousers! Sit - perfect! Can these be made? Can! We are convincing. We offer you to sew men's trousers according to our base pattern. If you have never done this before, believe me, sewing men's trousers is not much more difficult than women's.
The pattern of men's trousers is built in the same way women's pattern, and we will tell you in detail the technology of modeling and tailoring men's trousers.
Rice. 1. Pattern of the front half of men's trousers
Rice. 2. Pattern of the back half of men's trousers
Construction of a pattern-base of men's trousers with a pleat
1st stage of building a pattern
Before you start building a pattern for men's trousers, you need to take the following measurements:
…………………………………………………1/2 1/4
Waist (OT)– 88 cm 44 cm 22 cm
Hips (OB)– 102 cm 51 cm 25.5 cm
Hip Height (WB)- 22 cm
Bottom width of trousers (SHN) - 47 cm 23.5 cm 11.75 cm
Pants length on the side (DB) - 106 cm
IMPORTANT! If the customer has excess volume on the stomach and it is more convenient for him to wear trousers just below the waist line, all measurements should be taken along the waistline at waist level (). In this case, the length of the trousers is measured from line 2a to the floor.
Leg length on the inside (Step length) - 81 cm
Seat Height (Sun)- 25.5 cm (Measured in a sitting position along the back from the waist to the seat surface, see).
Knee height - 46.6 cm (1/2 LH + 1/10 LH minus 2)
2nd stage of building a pattern
Additional calculations for building a pattern of men's trousers
- The width of the front half of the trousers (SHPPB) \u003d 1/4 ABOUT +1 cm \u003d 25.5 + 1 \u003d 26.5 cm
- Total step width (OSHSH) \u003d 1/4 OB - 4 cm \u003d 25.5 - 4 \u003d 21.5 cm
- The step width of the front half of the trousers (SHShPB) \u003d 1/10 POB (half circumference of the hips) + 1 cm \u003d 5.1 + 1 \u003d 6.1 cm
- Step width of the back half of the trousers (ShShZP) \u003d OSHSH minus SSHPB \u003d 21.5 - 6.1 \u003d 15.4 cm
- The width of the back half of the trousers (SHZPB) \u003d 1/4 ABOUT + 3 cm \u003d 25.5 + 3 \u003d 28.5 cm
- The total width of the back half of the trousers \u003d WZPB + WSHZP \u003d 28.5 + 15.4 \u003d 43.9 cm
- ½ SHZP \u003d 43.9: 2 \u003d 22
Building a pattern-base of men's trousers
3rd stage of building a pattern
Construction of the front half of the trousers
In the upper left corner, put point A and put it down from it - AN \u003d 106.5 cm - the length of men's trousers on the side.
From the point H, put it up - The height of the knee NK \u003d 46.6 cm - point K, the length of the step NSh \u003d 81 cm - point W.
Pants hip line. From point A, put down the measurement. Hip height: AB = 22 cm.
Draw horizontal lines from points A, H, K, W, B.
From point B to the right along a horizontal line, measure the Width of the Front Half of the Trousers (SHPPB) = 26.5 cm - point B1. From point B1, swipe up and down vertical line to the intersection with the upper and lower lines. Points А1 and Ш1 were obtained at the intersection.
Extend the horizontal line BB1 to the right. From point B1 to the right, set aside the Step Width of the Front half of men's trousers - 6.1 cm - point B2.
Arrow line. Cut BB2 in half and draw a line of arrows of the front half of men's trousers through the resulting point.
From the arrow line along the bottom of the pattern of men's trousers, measure to the left and right the width of the front half of the trousers, calculated by the formula ¼ Width of the bottom of the trousers according to the measure minus 1 cm: 11.75 - 1 \u003d 10.75 cm.
From the points obtained, set aside 0.5 cm inward and connect the points obtained with points B and B2 with straight lines - auxiliary lines of the side and step cuts.
Narrow the pattern of men's trousers at the level of the knee by 1.5 cm, drawing the lines of the side and step cut along the patterns.
Waist length in front of pants. A1A2 = ¼ FROM (waist circumference) plus 3 cm - on the fold - 25 cm.
Raise the side cut line by 0.5 cm. Draw the waist line of men's trousers as shown in pattern 1.
Bow line of men's trousers.½ Ш1Ш2 set aside up. Set aside 0.5 cm from point B1 to the right. Draw a bow line along the pattern as shown in the pattern of men's trousers 1.
4th stage of building a pattern
Construction of the back half of the trousers
The pattern of the back half of men's trousers is built on the basis of the front half of men's trousers.
Extend the horizontal lines on the front half pattern to the left and right.
To obtain side and step cuts on the line of the bottom of the trousers and the line of the knee of the trousers, set aside 2 cm outward and connect the points obtained.
Arrow line. On the line of the hips from the line of the arrow of the front half of the trousers, set aside 1 cm to the right - point C - draw the line of the arrow of the back half of the men's trousers.
From point C to the right and to the left, measure ½ of the Total Width of the Back Half of the Trousers - 22 cm each - points B and B1.
Connect these points with points at the level of the knee - auxiliary lines of the side and step sections of men's trousers are obtained.
From point B1 to the left, set aside the Step Width of the back half of the trousers - 15.4 cm - point B2.
On the front half of the trousers pattern, from the step length line - point W - set aside 2 cm upwards to build the line of the middle cut of the trousers for the back half. Connect points 2 and point B2. Draw a perpendicular (auxiliary line of construction) to the line 2-B2.
The hip line of the back half of the MM1 men's trousers is drawn parallel to the 2-B2 line so that the point M lies on the hip line and the length of the MM1 segment is ¼ OB + 3 cm.
ADVICE! If you want the pants to fit your hips, reduce the increase to 1 or 2 cm.
The length of the crotch of the back half of the trousers is equal to the length of the crotch of the front half of the trousers minus 0.7 cm. The crotch of the back half of the trousers is drawn slightly concave. Draw the line of the middle seam of the back half of the trousers according to the pattern.
The waist line of the back half of the trousers. Connect point 2 on the knee line and point M - at the intersection with the waist line of the front half of the trousers, we get point T.
K1T=K1T1. Point T1 should lie on the perpendicular to the segment 2B2. TT1 - the waist line of the back half of men's trousers.
Calculation of the waist length of the back half of the trousers. The waist length of the back half of men's trousers is 1/4 OT + 3 cm for the tuck - 22 + 3 = 25 cm. The tuck is made in the center, 12 cm long.
Design the side of the back half of men's trousers and the line of the back seam of men's trousers according to the pattern.
To build a pattern of men's trousers? Then we proceed to the calculation and construction of a pattern of semi-adjacent trousers. For greater accuracy, we will build the front and back halves of the trousers together. At the beginning, we will build the front half of the trousers, then, based on it, the back half.
For example, let's take the following measurements:
Additions:
To facilitate your task, you can use the calculator table for an accurate calculation of the structure or a ready-made parametric pattern. Press plus to open the tab and learn more. ↓
Ready solution:
Table-calculator for calculating the pattern-basis of men's trousers
You enter your measurements, and the program automatically calculates all the formulas. You do not have to count in your head or on a calculator and be afraid to make a mistake in the calculation.
290 rub
Construction of the front half of the trousers
We build a right angle with a vertex at point T.
1. Pants length:
From the point T downwards vertically, we set aside the length of the trousers + 1 cm, and set the point H. TN \u003d Db + 1 cm.
TN \u003d 100 + 1 \u003d 101 cm.
2. Seat height:
From the point T down we set aside measure taken seat height Sun and put a point W or according to the calculation TS = ½ Sat + (1 - 3 cm for the elderly); ½ Sat for middle age; ½ Sat - (1-3 cm for youth).
TS = ½ × 51 = 25.5 cm (example for middle age).
3. Knee line:
From the point Ш downwards vertically, we lay off the segment ШК = ½ ШН - 6 cm.
SK = ½ × 75.5 - 6 = 31.75 cm.
4. Hip line:
From the point Ш upwards, set aside the segment ШБ = 1/3 of the segment ТШ.
SB = 1/3 TS.
SB = 25.5 ÷ 3 = 8.5 cm.
Now, from points T, B, W, K, H, we draw horizontal lines perpendicular to the TH line.
5. Step Width:
We set aside the width of the front half along the step line from the W point to the right horizontally and set the W4 point.
ШШ4 = ½ Sat + 5 cm (for youth); + 6 cm (for middle age); + 7 cm (for the elderly).
ШШ4 \u003d ½ × 51 + 6 \u003d 31.5 cm. (Example for middle age).
6. Hip Width:
From the point Ш4 horizontally to the left, set aside a segment of 4 cm (constant value) and set the point Ш2.
W4W2 = 4 cm (constant value).
Or SHSH2 \u003d SHSH4 - 4 \u003d 31.5-4 \u003d 27.5.
Further, from the point Ш2 upwards, we restore the perpendicular to the line ШШ4. And at its intersection with the line of the hips, we put point B1, and at the intersection with the waist line, point T1. Distances SHSH2, BB1, TT1 are the width of the trousers along the hip line.
7. Pants fold line (arrows):
We divide the segment ШШ4 in half and put the point Ш0.
ШШ0 = Ш0Ш4 = ½ ШШ4.
ШШ0 = Ш0Ш4 = 31.5 ÷ 2 = 15.75 cm.
From the points T, B, K, H, we lay off horizontally to the right segments equal to the segment ШШ0 and set the points T0, B0, K0, H0. And we connect the point T0 with the point H0 - this is the bend line (ironing line) of the trousers.
8. Pants Width Bottom:
From the point H0 to the left and right, set aside a distance equal to the measure Shn minus 2 and divide by 2.
H0H1 \u003d H0H2 \u003d (Shn - 2) ÷ 2.
H0H1 \u003d H0H2 \u003d (22 - 2) ÷ 2 \u003d 10 cm.
We connect the point H1 with the point W, and the point H2 with the point W4 with straight lines. At the intersection of these lines with the knee line, we put points K1 and K2, respectively.
9. Bending of trousers at the knee line:
From the point K1 to the right and from the point K2 to the left we set aside 1 - 1.5 cm.
K1K11 \u003d K2K22 \u003d 1 - 1.5 cm.
We connect point K11 with points W and H1, and point K22 with points W4 and H2.
10. The width of the trousers along the waistline:
From the point T0 to the right, we postpone the segment ToT11 \u003d ¼ St + 0.5 cm.
T0T11 \u003d ¼ × 42 + 0.5 \u003d 11 cm.
Let's find an auxiliary point T12. To do this, we postpone from the point T1 down a segment equal to 1/3 of the segment TS.
Т1Т12= 1/3 × ТШ. T1T12 \u003d 25.5 ÷ 3 \u003d 8.5 cm.
Point T11 is smoothly connected to point T12.
The width of the trousers along the waistline is set aside from point T11 to the left and set point T2. T11T2 \u003d ½ St + tuck or fold solution. Tuck or crease solution = 2 - 3 cm.
T11T2 \u003d 42 ÷ 2 + 2 \u003d 23 cm.
The rise of the side seam at the waist line T2T22 = 1 - 1.5 cm, depending on how the person wears the trousers.
Now we connect the points T22, B, W, K11 and H1 with smooth lines and get the line of the side seam of the front half of the trousers.
And we connect the points T22, T0 and T11 with smooth lines and get the waist line of the front half of the trousers.
11. Dart or pleat position:
We set aside from the point T0 to the left and to the right half the solution of the tuck or fold. Dart or fold solution = 2 - 3 cm. Dart length 8-10 cm.
12. Auxiliary point C:
From the point Ш2 we draw the bisector of the angle equal to 0.3 of the segment ШБ.
W2S = 0.3 × 8.5 = 2.6 cm.
Through the points T11, T12, C, W4 we draw a smooth line of the bow (middle seam).
13. Mid-Bottom Raise:
From the point H0 we retreat 0.5-1 cm upwards and put the point H5. Through the points H1H5H2 we draw a beautiful bottom line of the front half of the trousers.
14. Pocket location:
The location of the pocket on the trousers depends on the style. IN classic trousers ah we retreat 6 - 7 cm from point T22 along the waist line and 21 - 22 cm along the side seam. We get points 7 and 22.
Outline the front half of the trousers with a bright outline.
Construction of the back half of the trousers
15. Pants Width Bottom:
We postpone from the point H0 to the right and to the left the segments H0H3 \u003d H0H4 \u003d (Shn + 2) ÷ 2.
H0H3 \u003d H0H4 \u003d (22 + 2) ÷ 2 \u003d 12 cm.
16. Pants width at knee level:
From points K11 and K22 to the left and right horizontally, we set aside 2 cm each and get points K3 and K4.
K11K3 = K22K4 = 2 cm.
17. Side seam:
We postpone from point B horizontally to the left the segment BB2 \u003d 1/10 Sat.
Align the side cuts along the front half. That is, the side cut of the back half from the point H3 upwards should be equal to the side cut of the front half H1T22 (along the curve). In accordance with this, we obtain the point T33. It can be above or below the T3 point or coincide with it. Let's make a side cut of the back half of the trousers with a smooth beautiful line.
18. The balance of the trousers and the width of the back half along the waist line:
From point K0, with radius K0T33, we draw an arc to the right. We connect point T33 with an arc with a segment equal to the width of the back half of the trousers along the waist line. We get point T4.
T33T4 \u003d ½ St + Pv (solution of tucks) + 0.5 cm. Pv \u003d 2 - 4 cm.
T33T4 \u003d 42 ÷ 2 + 3 + 0.5 \u003d 24.5 cm.
19. The width of the trousers along the hips:
From point B2 to the right along the line of the hips, we postpone the segment B2B3 \u003d (Sb + Pb + 3) - BB1.
B2B3 \u003d (51 + 2 + 3) - 27.5 \u003d 28.5 cm.
We connect T4 with B3 and continue this line to the step line. At the intersection with the step line, put the point Ш22.
20. Auxiliary point D:
From the point Ш22 we draw the bisector of the angle Б3Ш22Ш2. We get point D.
W22D \u003d 2 - 3 cm. Point D is auxiliary.
21. The width of the trousers along the step line:
From the point Ш1 to the right, we set aside the segment Ш1Ш5, which is equal to (1/3 About × 2 + 4) - ШШ4. Note About - the girth of the hips, that is, you need to multiply Sat by 2.
Ш1Ш5 \u003d (102 ÷ 3 × 2 + 4) - 31.5 \u003d 40.5 cm.
22. Inseam:
Connect the points H4, K4, W5 with straight lines. Now let's measure the length of the crotch of the front half of the H2K22Sh4 trousers and make the crotch of the back half 1 cm shorter (for a tie for a tie with an iron during wet heat treatment). H4K4SH6 \u003d H2K22Sh4 - 1 cm. Let's draw a step seam with a smooth line, through the points H4, K4 and Sh6.
And we will draw the middle cut of the trousers through the points T4, B3, D and W6 with a smooth beautiful line.
23. Descent Mid Bottom:
From the point H0 down we set aside 0.5 - 1 cm, we get the point H6. Connect the points H3, H6 and H4 with a smooth line.
24. Location of tucks:
We mark the middle of the first tuck 8 - 9 cm from point T33 to the right along the waist line, and set point c1. We mark the middle of the second tuck 8 - 9 cm from the middle of the first, put point c2. The solution of each tuck is 1 - 2 cm. The length of the darts is 7 - 8 cm.
25. Back Pocket Location:
We place the pocket 5 cm from the side cut and 7-8 cm from the top cut (from the waist). Pocket length 14 cm.
Everything, our pants are built!
If you have any questions, write in the comments. I wish you all good luck and see you in new articles!
© Olga Marizina
To set up printing of pattern No. 191 of A4 format, use "Test square No. 2"! The test square is located on the first sheet in the pattern file.
Pattern of men's trousers.Sports trousers of average volume, on a stitched belt. Belt with elastic band; in the center has holes for the cord. On the front halves there are pockets with an undercut barrel. Bottoms of trousers are processed with stitched cuffs.
The length of the product along the side seam from the waist to the cuff
cm: 44 size: 89.8 - 92.7, 46 size: 90.3 - 98.8, 48 size: 90.9 - 99.4, 50 size: 91.4 - 100.0, 52 size: 92 .0 - 100.6, 54 size: 92.7 - 101.2, 56 size: 93.3 - 101.9, 58 size: 94.0-102.5
Increases are common, laid down in the pattern: Fri: 4 cm, P b: 3 cm.
Recommended sewing material: medium stretch jersey, 2-thread or 3-thread fleece footer, 2-thread or 3-thread loop footer. Medium weight cashmere. In composition, it can be cotton or cotton combined with other fibers.
Material consumption atwidth 140cm : 44 size: 1.3 - 1.35 m., 46.48 size: 1.4 - 1.55 m., 50.52 size: 1.8 - 1.95 m., 54.56.58 size: 2 .0-2.15
Material consumption atwidth 180cm : 44 size: 1.1 - 1.15 m., 46.48 size: 1, 1 - 1.25 m., 50.52 size: 1.2 - 1.35 m., 54.56.58 size: 1 .25 - 1.4
Pattern details are given with processing allowances.
The degree of complexity of tailoring - "For beginners"
The photo shows trousers sewn in the GRASSER bureau according to pattern No. 191We want you to enjoy working with Grasser patterns and make the sewing process understandable, sothe pattern is accompanied by a file with a very detailed description, which covers all stages of work on the product, with STEP PHOTOS SEWING TECHNOLOGIES!
Also in the descriptiondetailed information on the required consumption of fabric, materials and accessories is given.
For sewing you will need:1. 4-thread overlock
2. Straight stitch machine
3. Iron with steam
4. Ironing board
The pattern in your order will be in two print options:
1. For printing on A4. You need to print the pattern on a regular printer on A4 sheets, then glue the sheets, cut out the pattern and you can sew!
2. For printing on a wide-format plotter. Details are located on a sheet measuring 60 * 177 cm.
Elena 12.12.2019 17:00:51
Good afternoon :)
Please help me calculate the fabric consumption for a suit (pants 191 + sweatshirt 51) with a width of 180 cm.
Pants length + sweatshirt length + seams and shrinkage, will this be enough for a size 56 with this width?
Thank you in advance for your help!
Administrator: Hello, You can calculate the consumption by laying out the details of the pattern of the desired size in the desired width of the fabric (or knitwear).
Elizabeth 05.12.2019 02:33:01
Please help me choose the size
Administrator: Hello, what settings? What is the waist and hip circumference?
Katerina 23.11.2019 16:46:49
Good afternoon Can I use this pattern for sewing pajamas from interlock???
Administrator: Hello, you can if you want. For pajamas, you may need to choose a size larger than yours in order to be comfortable. Evaluate the increase indicated in the model and decide on the size.
Victoria Ivanova 13.11.2019 01:22:58
Hello! Please tell me, for Og 103, From 89, O 106, what size of sports trousers should I take if we sew from the footer 2x thread loop and footer 3x thread bouffant? thanks in advance
Administrator: Hello, Please choose your pants size according to your hip circumference. Size 54 is suitable for circumference 106.
Anastasia 03.11.2019 03:18:49
Good evening!
My husband took the standard size 50 height 170-176. A little bit upset. Trousers in a sticky, not at all like in the photo of the model. Length ... I don’t know where 170-176 is, height 168 - butt, taking into account the cuff. For my height 174, they are very short considering the cuff. Cuff - if it is cut from the same fabric (3n footer), it is catastrophically narrow. Just take a cutter. Upset, because I sewed them for my husband on vacation.
Your patterns are always perfect, but here I broke my head where the joint is.
Administrator: Hello, we are very sorry that you are upset and did not like the pattern, we have positive feedback about this model. Please send us a photo of
Ekaterina 12.10.2019 10:59:26
Hello! About -104 cm, what size should I take so that they sit exactly like in the photo?
Administrator: Hello, fit size 52
camilla 09.10.2019 22:49:08
I chose size 50 for my husband with hips 100 cm, after sweeping they laughed and got angry for a long time, because the trousers sat down almost like leggings! Not like in the photo of the model. It was necessary to take at least a size, or even 2 more (((
Administrator: Hello, this model has been repeatedly sewn off, the fit is good, not tight.
Please send a photo of what material you sewed from?
The test square was 10 by 10 cm?
Tamara 06.10.2019 19:42:11
Good afternoon. With a height of 182 cm, which size is better to choose 176-182 or 182-188 in order to do without adjustments or to make them easier?
Administrator: Hello, if you have borderline growth, then when choosing a growth range, it is better to focus on the measurements of traffic accidents, accidents, it will be more accurate. On the page "how to take measurements" in this regard, we have a clarification -
You need to measure the length from the highest shoulder point to the waist and compare with the table, and then it will be easier to decide which range suits you best.
Julia Stepanenko 05.10.2019 10:48:25
Good afternoon can't print correctly. If the square is 10 * 10 then the fields are not included, if the fields are included then the square is 10.5 * 10.5 ...
Administrator: Hello, You need to check the print settings:
1. When printing, check the "orientation" setting. This setting should be “self-portrait / album”, because of the incorrectly set orientation, the margins of the sheet may move out.
2. In the print settings, in the “custom scale” item, set the desired number of percentages with which the test square will be 10 by 10 cm. Usually this is 100%, but your printer settings may differ.
3. Check if you have a tick in the field "Select paper source according to the size of the pdf page", DO NOT check the box there.
4. If you are printing from a browser, please note that printing from a browser may not be correct. It is better to print the pattern by first downloading it to your device.
With the same settings, with which the test square is printed exactly 10 by 10 cm, with a letter and a number in the upper left corner and with margins on all 4 sides, you need to print a pattern.
Then the pattern will be right size, with margins and numbering.
Julia 02.10.2019 02:24:34
Hello, tell me what size to take with o.t. 103 and o.b. 108, if you sew from the footer 3-threads with fleece?
Administrator: Hello, size 56 will fit.
Size chart is available on our website.
Olga Turaeva 09/18/2019 22:02:04
Can you please tell me if the pants fit low or high?
Administrator: Hello, not low, not high, closer to the natural waist line, a little understated.
Christina 26.08.2019 19:29:35
Hello! please tell me about and from in finished form for sizes 44, 46 and 48
Administrator: Hello, in order to get the girths in finished form, you need to add the amount of the increase to the tabular girths.
Waist:
44r = 80cm
46r = 84cm
48r = 88cm
Hips:
44r = 95.8cm
46r = 99.8cm
48r = 103.8cm
Anna 08/16/2019 19:52:54
For parameters about = 112 cm, I took size 54 (purchased 52-54 things), as a result, I removed it along the hips, I thought about sewing a sweatshirt, now I doubt with the size
Administrator: Hello, but the indicated hip circumference fits size 58.
Have you confused anything?
31.07.2019 10:42:17
Thanks a lot for the pattern. These are now my favorite pants.
Tatiana Tatiana 07/16/2019 11:22:17
Hello, is it possible to sew shorts from cotton or linen using this pattern? Maybe take a size larger?
Administrator: Tatyana, good afternoon!
This pattern is not designed for sewing from fabric, it is for knitwear.
Asya 05/27/2019 18:07:49
Hello. With a height of 181.5, which size is better to choose?
Administrator: Hello, the height range of 176-182 is suitable for you
Zhanar Magambetova 09.05.2019 12:21:51
Hello! My husband has OT-91, OB-102, and I bought 46 solution. Is it possible to adjust the pattern, or is it better to buy a new one?
Administrator: Hello, it's better to buy a new one, size 52. There will be many adjustments.
Evgeniya Babanova 27.04.2019 14:36:22
Good afternoon please tell me, we need patterns for OB 100 and OB 113 cm. What sizes would you advise, I'm afraid I'll make a mistake myself))). Thank you very much!!!
Administrator: Hello, for a hip circumference of 100, size 50 will fit.
Hips 113 corresponds to size 60, the pattern is not shown in this size. If you know how to correct patterns, then you can add 4 cm along the side seams - 1 cm for each side cut.
Natalya Petukhova 15.04.2019 23:49:51
Hello, tell me, please, what size of pants to choose, if OB=114.5cm, OT=108cm (this is under the belly, where we wear pants)?
Administrator: Hello, size 60 fits the indicated measurements, but this pattern is not presented in this size. You can take a size 58 and zoom in on the side seams on the layout and see the fit. And then transfer the changes to the pattern and sew from the base material.
Natalia 11.04.2019 19:44:18
Hello, when paying, a file for printing A4 format came with instructions, printing on a plotter, and a test square for printing on a plotter, there is a test square inside the file for printing on a printer, it is printed with sides 10 by 10, BUT when the entire pattern is printed, there are no fields , it is impossible to glue exactly if the scale is reduced, respectively, the square is 9.5. everything according to the instructions, settings, and so on, reprinted 3 times, all consumables have already come out more expensive than the pattern itself, and I used to print from your site, there was a normal pattern. what to do????????
Administrator: Hello, your print settings are broken.
When printing, check the "orientation" setting. This setting should be “self-portrait / album”, because of the incorrectly set orientation, the margins of the sheet may move out.
In the print settings, in the “custom scale” item, set the desired number of percentages with which the test square will be 10 by 10 cm. Usually this is 100%, but your printer settings may differ.
With the same settings, with which the test square is printed exactly 10 by 10 cm, with a letter and a number in the upper left corner and with margins on all 4 sides, you need to print a pattern. Then the pattern will be the correct size, with margins and numbering.
If you are printing from a browser, please note that printing from a browser may not be correct. It is better to print the pattern by first downloading it to your device!
Olga 04/09/2019 14:51:34
Hello!) When I bought this pattern, I couldn’t choose Rostov, but now I can. Could you change my pattern for 170-176 height for me. I'm willing to pay the price difference if needed. Thank you in advance!)
Administrator: Hello, write to us, please, at , indicate the order number.
In this case, we change for free, without surcharges)
Alena 04/09/2019 14:49:22
Girls please tell me, for height 183, OG106, FROM 103, OB 106 which size is better to take
Administrator: Hello, size 54 will suit you, height 182-188
Larisa 04/09/2019 14:48:09
Good afternoon. Help with sizing pants. Waist circumference - 82cm, hip circumference - 100cm, the guy is an athlete, so the legs are pumped up, the leg circumference in the thigh area is 60cm, the lower leg is 40cm. I want a fit that is not tight, but not too loose. I would appreciate that.
Administrator: Hello, size 50 will suit you. In the lower leg area, if necessary, you can expand along the side seams. Sew the layout, and on the layout, see if the width of the trouser leg in the shin area suits you, if necessary, adjust on the sides and make adjustments to the pattern, then you can sew from the main fabric.
Natalya 04.04.2019 02:24:55
Good afternoon I ask for your help with choosing the size for buying pattern No. 191. The man has a chest - 103, a waist - 96 (the waist is measured at the place where the belt is worn, i.e. under the protruding belly), hips - 101. There are powerful legs (puffed up calves). All store knitted trousers, similar to trousers according to pattern No. 191, are small for him precisely in the calves. I tend to take a size 52 and adjust it in the calves during the fitting. If you take size 54, then I'm afraid there will be extra volume in the hips and in the motna. It is desirable that the trousers in the hips sit as on the model representing the trousers. What should I do?
Administrator: Hello, yes, you have chosen the right size if you want to fit on the hips like on the model. Yes, and in principle, the size of the trousers is chosen according to the hips.
That's right, in the calf area, the pattern of trousers can be expanded - add volume to the side seams and bring out new lines of the side seams.
Sew the layout, and work out the changes on it, and then transfer it to the pattern and you can sew from the base material.
Darima 25.03.2019 02:12:30
Hello, I bought this pattern from you, but mixed up the size, instead of 170-176, I took 176-182, size 46. Please tell me how many centimeters you need to remove from the bottom and do you need to change (remove) something from above?
Administrator: Hello, nothing will need to be removed from the top, the length from the bottom can be adjusted during the fitting.
Lena 28.02.2019 23:35:04
Hello, tell me please, after sewing trousers from 3-thread footer, micro holes appear at the seams, especially in the crotch seams ... what should I do?? I stitched again along the seam, they still appear ((((
Administrator: Hello, you have chosen the wrong needle for sewing knitwear. Therefore, such a defect appears.
You need to choose Stretch or Jersey needles
Valentina Vasilievna Morozova 24.02.2019 13:22:49
Hello! In trousers, pattern No. 191, size 54, height 182-188, forgot to attach or did not do it?
Administrator: Hello, yes, the size was not attached, we apologize. Added! Thank you for your attention!
Irina 25.02.2019 02:26:29
Hello, when I bought this pattern, it was impossible to choose a size, now the pattern has been adjusted, but in my orders my height remained standard. You can change the height to 182/188 in order 91769
Administrator: Hello, I replaced your height in the order, sew with pleasure!
Irina 27.02.2019 03:20:26
Thank you, you are magicians, and your patterns are the same.
Administrator: Thank you very much!!! We smile!)))
We are very pleased!
Chief administrator 23.02.2019 16:59:55
Trouser pattern #191 was changed on 02/22/2019
What has been changed:
1. Made narrower to the bottom.
2. Pants are shortened by 10 cm.
3. Adjusted cuff length
4. Given a brace along the crotch
5. Added marking of eyelets on the belt
Ksenia Andronik 20.02.2019 23:09:25
guided by OB \u003d 112, took size 58, the pattern is huge! have to take a smaller size
Administrator: Hello, I'm sorry the pattern didn't fit. Tell me, was the test square 10 by 10 cm?
Marina 02/15/2019 00:48:42
Dear Grasser! Thank you for being! Awesome site and your patterns are cool! Tell me, what size is better to take on OT 98, OB 119, length from waist to ankle 1.25? Thank you
Administrator: Marina, hello, thank you!!! ;)) We smile!) And we are very glad that we have such clients!
For the specified parameters, size 62 is needed, since the pattern must be chosen according to the hips. However, pants are not available in this size. Only if you take size 58 and increase the hips.
The pattern is presented in only one height range 176-182, so it is better to measure the length according to the printed parts, if you need to add lengths in the pattern, and then adjust the length on the fitting.
Nastya 06.02.2019 19:03:29
Hello! Is the pattern of women's sports trousers suitable? Because in the pattern of men's trousers there is no growth less. Need 170-176.
Administrator: Hello, no, women's design is different. You can take the height of 176-182, and adjust the product in length.
Arina 22.12.2018 21:53:36
Hello. I printed out a test square, at first it was larger, then I adjusted the size to 10 * 10. I printed the pattern, but the page numbers are missing. now I don’t understand how to glue it and whether it was printed in the correct format. how else can you check? size 48
Administrator: Hello, if there are no margins and pagination, then the format is wrong.
Check the "orientation" setting there should be - self-portrait / album
Due to incorrect orientation, the fields move out and the numbering disappears.
Elena 10/23/2018 02:16:39
The pattern is wonderful, beautiful pants! Already 2 sewing, the husband is satisfied. I lowered the fit by 3 cm, otherwise they are good. Thank you
Administrator: Hello. Thank you very much!! We are very happy that you like the pattern!
Natalya 06.10.2018 12:27:55
Good afternoon. I printed a test square for this pattern, A4 print format. When measuring a square, it turns out 10.2 x 10.2 instead of 10x10. Is this normal or does it print incorrectly?
Administrator: Hello, no, the scale is wrong, it's better to set the print settings so that the test square is 10 by 10 cm. You need to set the desired percentage in the "custom scale" settings, with which the test square attached to the pattern will be 10 by 10 cm. This it can be 100% or 95% or 96% - you need to find the right percentage for your printer.
With the same settings with which the test. the square is printed exactly 10 by 10 cm, you need to print the pattern as well. Then the pattern will be the correct size, with margins and numbering.
Detailed instructions for printing patterns are on our website -
Julia 09/27/2018 03:00:33
The pattern is wonderful. Only a great wish - to take into account that men are tall and very tall. Planned to sew son r-r 46. But already on the paid pattern, I noticed that this is a height of 176, and I need 182-188. I shortened it a little and sewed it for my daughter.
Administrator: Hello, the pattern was made a long time ago, we used to make patterns in one growth range, now new patterns are made in 4 growth ranges.
Anastasia 23.07.2018 11:36:14
Good afternoon. I can't decide on the size. Tell me which one is better to take? OT98 OB100
Administrator: Anastasia, good afternoon!
We recommend that you purchase a pattern in size 54 and, if necessary, adjust the product in the hip area.
Diana 11.05.2018 08:14:53
Hello! And if you lengthen your pants according to your height, do you need any allowances for fit (when wearing, knees, etc.)?
Administrator: Hello, you can lengthen and edit the comfortable length during the fitting.
Daria 12.04.2018 17:43:25
Hello, tell me how much fabric to take for size 46 with a canvas width of 180 cm? can't figure it out..
Administrator: Hello, You can calculate the consumption by laying out the details of the pattern of the desired size in the width of the fabric.
Maria 04/05/2018 20:58:07
Hello, tell me what size should I take and volumes: hips 116, waist 114
Administrator: Hello, your measurements are larger than the most big size in the pattern. You can take size 58, but you will need to increase the pattern.
Add volume, sew the layout and see if you can adjust the volume on the layout.
Anna 03/23/2018 00:28:07
Hello! Tell me, when buying only one size, you can choose? Or all in one pattern?
Administrator: Hello, we sell each size separately.
Mikhail 03/17/2018 22:57:42
Hello! I paid for the pattern, they sent an e-mail stating that the payment went through, but there is no file for download. How long after payment does the file with the pattern arrive?
Administrator: Hello, I checked, your order is completed, paid. Download links are active. Please check your spam folder, the notification email may have ended up there. You can also download patterns from the order in your personal account on the site, section "my orders". To do this, you need to log in to the site with the username and password with which you made the purchase.
Diana 03/16/2018 09:05:37
Please tell me how to determine the size. In the table I see only about women's sizes.
Administrator: Hello, scroll down the page just a little -
Sweatpants will always find their place in a man's wardrobe., even if he is far from the sport. These pants are used as home clothes or for going out of town. Depending on their purpose, trousers are sewn from different materials. For example, thin knitwear is suitable for the home, for jogging in the cold season - on a fleece lining, for active rest in nature - from raincoat fabric or other water-repellent material.
There are many options for these pants. You can find pants with stripes, with internal or patch pockets, with a zipper or elastic band. There are single-layer products or with a lining.
Model selection
Let's focus on the most simple version and we will sew elasticated sweatpants without pockets.
Sew track pants rubber is very easy. Even a novice seamstress can perform this task.
Materials and tools
As the main material we use dense knitted fabric. You will also need a drawstring for the belt and a thin elastic band.
Required tools:
- sewing machine with a zigzag or overlock stitch;
- knitting needles;
- pins;
- ruler;
- graph paper;
- tracing paper;
- tape measure;
- pencil;
Step-by-step construction of a pattern
We make several measurements of the figure:
- semicircumference of the hips;
- leg length from waist to floor;
- knee height (from waist to knee level);
- leg length along the inner surface;
- bottom leg width.
We build a pattern of the front:
- From the upper left corner we build a vertical line TN. On it from the waist down, we set aside the height of the knee, set the so-called K; from bottom to top - the length of the leg along the inner surface (I).
- From t. I put off the line of the hips, set point B. We calculate the distance YAB as follows: we divide the measure of the half-girth of the hips by 10 and add 3 cm. We draw horizontal lines through all new points.
- From B we set aside the width of the front of the trousers, set the point B 1. It is equal to half the measurement of the half-girth of the hips plus 1.5 cm. Through B 1 wire a vertical line up and down, forming T 1 and R 1.
- We calculate the step width B 1 B 2: divide the half-girth of the hips by 10 plus 1 cm. We draw the central vertical through B 3. B 3 \u003d BB 2 / 2. On it we mark K 1 and H 1.
- From H 1 we set aside H 2 and H 3 at the same distance, which is equal to half the width of the bottom of the leg minus half a centimeter.
- From H 2 and H 3 to the center we set aside 0.5 cm each and from these points we draw upward inclined lines to points A and B 2, respectively.
- From the point of intersection of the inclined line with the knee line to the center, set aside 1 cm (K 2). From K 1 to the right we build a segment equal to K 1 K 2, put K 3.
- We build the middle line. From T 1 to the left set aside 1 cm (T 2). From I 1 - up half the length of I 1 I 2 (A1). We connect point A 1 with I 2.
- We connect T, T 2, B 1, I 2, H 3, H 2, K 2, I. We draw up the middle line using a pattern.
We build a pattern for the back:
- We design it on the basis of the front pattern.
- We expand the bottom line by 1 cm on each side. We do the same with the knee line. We put points K 4, K 5, H 4, H 5.
- We put B 4, for this we set aside 2 cm from B.
- Set aside the width of the back from B4, put B 5. The length of the straight line B 4 B 5 is half the measurement of the half-circumference of the hips plus 4 cm.
- We determine the width of the step B 5 B 6, it is equal to the measure of the half-girth of the hips divided by 5 plus 3 cm. From I we set aside 2 cm upwards (A 2). Connect the segment A 2 B 5 and build from B 5 a perpendicular to it.
- We draw an auxiliary line K 5 B 6. Set aside I 3, so that K 3 I 2 \u003d K 5 I 3 - 0.5 cm.
- We draw a segment K 4 B 4 and extend it up. We set aside the point T 3 on it, so that the distance K 2 T is equal to K 4 T 3.
- We build an auxiliary straight line K 1 T 4, so that its length is equal to K 1 T 3 + 1.5 cm, while K 1 T 4 should pass in the middle of the segment B 3 B 5. We draw the middle line with a smooth curve.
- We connect the points T 4, T 3, B 4, K 4, H 4, H 5, I 5.
We transfer to tracing paper the details of the front and rear parts. Cut out.
cutting material
ADVICE! To avoid shrinkage of the finished product, it is recommended that before you start cutting the material, pre-wash and iron the fabric from the wrong side.
We fold the material with the right sides inward. We pin patterns from tracing paper with safety pins, circle with chalk, add 1.5 cm for allowances on each side and 4 cm for allowances for the bottom. We cut out the details, taking into account the allowances.
We cut out a belt with a length equal to the circumference of the waist according to the patterns, 10 cm wide, taking into account allowances.
ATTENTION! When determining the waist circumference using patterns, do not forget to multiply the value for each part by 2.
Sewing steps
- We process slices with an overlock or a zigzag stitch.
- We sweep the step, side and middle seams. After that, it is better to try on the product. If the pants fit well, they don’t pull anywhere, you can sew these seams on sewing machine zigzag stitch with a small screed width. The middle seam is made by inserting the right leg into the left leg, face to face. Iron the step and side seams, iron the middle seam until rounded.
ATTENTION! When sewing on a sewing machine knitted fabrics Use a special needle for knitwear. It has a rounded tip, with which it does not pierce the material, but gently pushes the loops apart, preventing the appearance of hooks and arrows when wearing the product.
- We grind the part of the belt along the short side. Then, fold along the length of the wrong sides inward. At a distance of 1.5 cm from the fold, we lay a straight machine line along the front side. We make another same line parallel to the first at a distance of 1.5 cm from it towards the cut.
REFERENCE! To get perfectly straight lines, it is better to use a special sewing machine foot with a ruler.
- We connect the belt with the product, applying it to the front side of the trousers with the cut up. We pin with pins, combining the back middle seam with the seam of the belt. We lay a basting, we grind a zigzag seam with a small screed width. Iron the seam down.
- On the front of the belt, at an equal distance from the middle seam, we make two identical holes for a lace and an elastic band. We sew them by hand. Using a regular pin, insert the elastic into the belt, tie it and hide the edges of the elastic in the belt. In the same way, we thread a decorative lace, bringing its ends out.
- We try on pants, determine the bottom line. We bend the bottom edge, lay the basting line, fold it a second time, lay the basting again. We iron. We make a straight machine seam at a distance of about 1.5 cm from the edge.
As an additional element, you can make a back patch pocket:
- To do this, we cut out the detail of the pocket, even from a contrasting fabric.
- We bend all the edges inward. We iron them well. We sew the upper cut on a typewriter.
- We pin the pocket with pins to the back of the trousers. We take note. We attach on three sides at a distance of 1-2 mm from the edge.
Men's sports trousers are ready.
For men with a protruding belly, there are two models of dress pants, which mainly differ in fit. Pants that have a wider and higher front are worn on the stomach with suspenders. However, this model is no longer so popular and is most often found in suit trousers, in which a relatively high waistband and suspenders are hidden by a vest and jacket.
More often, preference is given to trousers that are worn under the stomach. The fit line of these trousers runs in front - under the protruding belly, on the side - along the thigh bones and behind - along the waist line. These trousers can be worn with a belt, which for many men is a more acceptable option.
Pants worn on the stomach:
- The front of the trousers is made high, as it is located on the stomach.
- Wear preferably with suspenders.
- They are performed without folds at the waist on the front of the trousers (so as not to increase the already large volume of the front of the trousers).
- The side pockets on the front of the trousers are welt into the frame (because they do not open).
Pants worn under the belly:
- The trouser belt runs obliquely from the waist line on the back down under the stomach.
- Can be worn with a belt.
- Pleats at the waistband on the front of the trousers create comfortable volume.
- Can be performed with side pockets with a detachable barrel, as the front of the trousers is quite free.
Pattern of men's trousers worn on the stomach
For an example of construction, let's take the following dimensional features of a male figure:
To build a pattern of men's trousers, it is necessary to make additional calculations:
1/4 OB + 0-1 cm = 1/4 132 cm + 0.5 cm = 33.5 cm.
1/4 OB + 3-4.5 cm = 1/4 132 + 4.5 cm = 37.5 cm.
Total step width (Oshsh): 1/4 ABOUT - 3 cm = 1/4 132 - 3 cm = 30 cm.
Oshsh - Shshp \u003d 30 cm - 7.6 cm \u003d 22.4 cm.
It is also necessary to determine the value that is added at the line of the middle of the front of the trousers (exceeding the size of otp). To do this, subtract 12 cm from the OB value (fixed value) - the "normal" value of OTp is obtained, which in turn should be subtracted from the measured OTp value.
"Normal" value OTp = 132 cm - 12 cm = 120 cm.
Exceeding the size Otp = 130 cm - 120 cm = 10 cm.
The front half of trousers worn on the stomach
Pants length: NT = measure DsB = 110 cm.
4. The width of the front half of men's trousers at the hip level: BB 1 = Wp value = 33.5 cm.
5. From T 1 set aside to the right 1/5 of the excess of the OTP size.
T 1 T 2 \u003d 1/5 10 cm \u003d 2 cm.
From I 1 set aside 1/3 of the segment T 1 T 2 to the right.
I 1 I 2 \u003d 1/3 2 cm \u003d 0.7 cm.
Connect the obtained points T 2 and I 2 with an auxiliary line. At the intersection with the line of the hips, we get B 2.
6. Step width of the front of the trousers: B 2 B 3 = Wshp value = 7.6 cm.
7. The position of the front fold of men's trousers is determined by dividing the segment BB 3 in half, point B 4 is obtained through which to draw a vertical. At the intersection we get points K 1 and H 1.
8. The width of the trousers at the bottom level: H 1 H 2 \u003d H 1 H 3 \u003d 1/2 ShN - 1 cm \u003d 1/2 25 cm - 1 cm \u003d 11.5 cm.
- auxiliary step line up to B 3;
9. To facilitate the processing of the bottom of the trousers with a hem seam from the points H 2 and H 3, draw up perpendiculars 4 cm long, we get O and O 1.
10. Set aside 1-1.5 cm to the right along the knee line from the auxiliary side line, point K 2 is obtained.
11. To build middle line the front of the trousers you need:
- from T 2 along the auxiliary straight line, set aside the value of the segment T 1 T 2
- from B 2 set aside to the right 0.7 cm
- from I 2 set aside 1/2 of the segment I 2 I 3, we get point A 1, which we connect with a straight line to I 3.
The middle line is drawn up through T 3, T 2, 0.7, I 3.
12. To build the upper cut at the waist from T, set aside 1.5 cm to the right, we get T 4, from which set aside 0.7 cm upwards.
13. Draw a tuck in the middle of the front fold of the trousers with a solution of 1.5 cm, 10 cm long.
14.Side cut
15. Checkout step cut through I 3 , K 3 , O 1 a smooth concave curve.
The back half of trousers worn on the stomach
Through the points obtained, draw side and step sections parallel to the same sections of the front of the trousers.
2. Set aside 1.5 cm from B 4 to the right to determine the position of the line of the back fold of the trousers, we get B 5.
3. Set aside 2-3 cm from I to determine the angle of inclination of the back of the trousers, we get A 2.
4. From B 5 set aside to the left and right 1/2 each (Shz + Shshz) \u003d 1/2 (37.5 cm + 22.4 cm) \u003d 30 cm.
B 5 B 6 = B 5 B 7 = 30 cm.
5. From B 7, set aside the step width of the back of the trousers to the left: B 7 B 8 = Shshz = 22.4 cm.
6. Connect the straight line A 2 with B 8 and draw a perpendicular upwards from B 8 to build the midline of the back of the trousers.
7. To build step line connect K 5 with B 7.
Measure the segment K 3 I 3 on the front of the trousers and set aside the found value minus the amount of stretching of the material equal to 0.7 cm from K 5 upwards, we get I 4.
K 3 I 3 - 0.7 cm \u003d K 5 I 4
8. Connect the straight line K 4 with B 6 and extend it up.
Measure the length of the side cut of the front of the trousers from K 2 to T 4 and set aside the found value from K 4 up in a straight line, we get T 5.
9. Measure the distance from T 5 to K 1 and transfer the resulting value plus 0-1 cm from K 1 up to the intersection with the middle line of the back of the trousers, we get T 6.
K 1 T 5 + 0-1 cm = K 1 T 6
Design posterior center line through T 6, B 8, I 4.
10. To build the upper cut at the waist, connect T 5 with T 6.
Set aside 1.5 cm from T 5 to the right (the amount of displacement of the side seam, as on the front), we get T 7.
11. Measure the length of the upper cut of the front of the trousers (segment TT 1) minus the size of the tuck: 34.5 cm - 1.5 cm = 33 cm.
The length of the upper section of the back of the trousers: 1/2 measurements FROM - 33 cm = 65 cm - 33 cm = 32 cm.
For the length of the segment T 7 T 6 - 32 cm = 35.5 cm - 32 cm = 3.5 cm
In our example, based on the calculations, we design two tucks with solutions of 2 cm and 1.5 cm.
To build a central tuck, divide the segment T 7 T 6 in half, for a side tuck, divide the left half again in half. From the points obtained, draw perpendiculars to the waist down and draw tucks: a smaller one 8 cm long, a larger one 10 cm.
12. Checkout side cut through points T 7, B 6 a smooth convex curve, points B 6, K 4 - a smooth concave curve.
Checking the construction of a drawing of men's trousers
1. Draw a perpendicular from point B 6 to the midline of the back of the trousers and measure this segment.
The resulting value should be approximately equal to 1/4 ABOUT + 3–4 cm.
2. Align the front and back of the trousers along the lines of the step cuts and check the conjugation of the midlines and, if necessary, align.
3. Combine both parts of the trousers along the side cuts and check the harmony of the pairing of the lines of the upper cuts of the parts.
Pattern of men's trousers worn under the belly
In addition to the main dimensional features, it is also necessary to measure balance dimensional features:
Front pants length - chipboard = 104 cm (measured along the front fold of the pants from the bottom edge of the waistband to the floor in front)
Length of trousers at the back - DSZ = 110 cm (measured along the back fold of the trousers from the bottom edge of the belt to the floor at the back)
Let's make additional calculations:
Pants Front Width (W): 1/4 OB + 1.5-2 cm (1/2 sweet at the waist) = 1/4 132 cm + 2 cm = 35 cm.
Pants Back Width (Whz): 1/4 OB + 4-5 cm = 1/4 132 + 4.5 cm = 37.5 cm.
Total step width (Oshsh): 1/4 ABOUT - 3-4 cm = 1/4 132 - 3.5 cm = 29.5 cm.
The step width of the front of the trousers (Shshp): 1/20 ABOUT + 1 cm = 1/20 132 + 1 cm = 7.6 cm.
Step width of the back of the trousers (Whz): Oshsh - Shshp \u003d 29.5 cm - 7.6 cm \u003d 21.9 cm.
The front half of trousers worn under the belly
1. Draw a vertical line, mark the point H at the bottom, from which set aside upwards:
Knee height: NK \u003d 1/2 DN + 1/10 DN - 2 cm \u003d 1/2 78 cm + 1/10 78 cm - 2 cm \u003d 44.8 cm.
Leg length: NY = measurement DN = 78 cm.
Pants length: NT = measure DsB = 107 cm.
2. The position of the line of the hips: JB \u003d 1/20 OB + 3 cm \u003d 1/20 132 cm + 3 cm \u003d 9.6 cm.
Divide the segment YB in half, we get A.
3. From points T, B, I, K, H, draw horizontal lines to the right.
4. The width of the front half of the men's trousers at the hip level: BB 1 = Wp value = 35 cm.
Draw a vertical line through point B 1, mark points T 1, I 1 at the intersection with horizontal lines.
5. The step width of the front of the trousers: B 1 B 2 = Shshp value = 7.6 cm.
6. Divide the segment BB 2 in half, we get point B 3 through which we draw a vertical (the front fold of men's trousers). At the intersection we get points K 1 and H 1.
7. The width of the trousers at the bottom level: H 1 H 2 \u003d H 1 H 3 \u003d 1/2 ShN - 1 cm \u003d 1/2 25 cm - 1 cm \u003d 11.5 cm.
From the points H 2, H 3 set aside inward 0.5 cm and draw up:
- auxiliary step line up to B 2;
- auxiliary lateral line to A.
8. To facilitate the processing of the bottom of the trousers with a hem seam from the points H 2 and H 3, draw up perpendiculars 4 cm long, we get O and O 1.
9. Along the knee line, set aside 1-1.5 cm from the auxiliary side line to the right, we get the K 2 point.
Measure the segment K 2 K 1 and postpone the value obtained from K 1 to the right, we get K 3.
10. To build middle line the front of the trousers from B 1 set aside 0.5 cm to the right.
From I 1 upwards set aside 1/2 of the segment I 1 I 2, we get point A 1, which we connect with a straight line to I 2.
Draw the middle line through T 1, 0.5, I 2.
11. To build the waist:
- set aside 1-1.5-2 cm from T to the right to offset the side seam, we get T 2 (for very full figures with a small difference between the OB and OT measurements, take a smaller value)
- from T 2 set aside up 0.7 cm.
From T 1 put down half the difference between the balance dimensional features: T 1 T 3 \u003d 1/2 (DSZ - chipboard) \u003d 1/2 (110 cm - 104 cm) \u003d 3 cm.
12. Approximately 2 cm (depending on the location of the belt) below the upper cut, draw a fold 3-4 cm wide.
13.Side cut is drawn up through points 0.7, B, A with a slightly convex curve, through points A, K 2, O - with a smooth concave curve.
14. Checkout step cut through I 2, K 3, O 1 a smooth concave curve.
The back half of trousers worn under the belly
The design of the rear half is carried out on the drawing of the front.
1. Expansion at the level of the knee and bottom: K 2 K 4 \u003d K 3 K 5 \u003d 2 cm, H 2 H 4 \u003d H 3 H 5 \u003d 2 cm.
Through the points obtained, draw side and step sections parallel to the sections of the front of the trousers.
2. Set aside 1.5 cm from B 3 to the right, we get B 4.
3. From B 4 set aside to the left and right half the total width of the back of the trousers: B 4 B 5 = B 4 B 6 = 1/2 (Shz + Shshz) = 1/2 (37.5 cm + 21.9 cm) = 29.7 cm.
4. From B 6, set aside the step width of the back of the trousers to the left: B 6 B 7 \u003d Wshz \u003d 21.9 cm.
5. Set aside 2 cm from I, we get A 2 from which draw an auxiliary line to point B 7.
6. To build the midline of the back of the trousers from B 7 to the resulting auxiliary line, draw a perpendicular up.
7. To build step line connect K 5 with B 6.
Measure the segment K 3 I 2 on the front of the trousers and set aside the found value minus the amount of stretching of the material equal to 0.7 cm from K 5 upwards, we get I 3.
K 3 I 3 - 0.7 cm \u003d K 5 I 3
Draw a step cut with a smooth concave curve.
8. Connect the straight line K 4 with B 5 and extend it up.
Measure the length of the side cut of the front of the trousers from K 2 to T and set aside the found value from K 4 up in a straight line, we get T 4.
9. Measure the distance from T 4 to K 1 and transfer the resulting value plus 1 cm from K 1 up to the intersection with the auxiliary perpendicular, we get T 5.
K 1 T 4 + 1 cm = K 1 T 5
10. Through T 4, T 5 draw a line of the upper cut.
11. From T 5, along the auxiliary perpendicular, set aside 3 cm upwards (1/2 of the difference between the balanced dimensional characteristics, as on the front of the trousers) and draw a perpendicular to the left.
Design middle line the back of the trousers through T 6, T 5, B 7, I 3.
12. To build a waist line, from T 4 set aside 1-1.5-2 cm to the right (the amount of displacement of the side seam, as on the front), we get T 7.
Measure the length of the upper cut of the front of the trousers (segment TT 3) minus the size of the fold: 34 cm - 4 cm = 30 cm.
The length of the upper section of the back of the trousers: 1/2 measurements FROM - 30 cm = 62 cm - 30 cm = 32 cm.
For tuck solution definitions: length segment T 7 T 5 - 32 cm = 36 cm - 32 cm = 4 cm
In our example, based on the calculations, we design two tucks with solutions of 2.5 cm and 1.5 cm.
Draw a central tuck in the middle of the segment T 7 T 5 11-12 cm long, with its end drawn 0.7 cm towards the midline of the part.
Connect the upper point of the left side of the tuck with a straight line to T 7, draw in the middle of this segment side tuck 8.5-9 cm long.
11. Checkout side cut through points T 7, B 5 a smooth convex curve, points B 5, K 4 - a smooth concave curve.